Gauges Electrical or Mechanical

Just wondering what people think about this.

I'm considering getting a mechanical oil pressure gauge. They have a more detailed range of sweep than the electrical (270 degrees) and supposed to be more accurate. I've been very happy with my turbo gauge which has a similar range. Obviously the disadvantage is that you have to run the capillary tube, but that's not exactly difficult on my Landy as it has little in the way of luxuries.

Just wondered what peoples thoughts and experiences. I'm also considering doing the same for the head water temp.

I see no issue with it having mostly run oil pressure gauges with capillary tubes and never had a problem, in fact less to go wrong.

It's worth getting the aeroquip braided pipes as the standard plastic tube seems a bit too fragile on a Landy.

For water temp, I am completely of the opposite opinion. Don't like manual, and would rather have a sender and wire. We have a racetech dual water and oil piped in gauge on the MK1 Escort and I'm not keen. The sender tube feels like its easy to damage and difficult to run through the car to the engine.

It's worth checking the prices of replacement sender units. My EVO 6 has SPA gauges and the pressure senders are between £50 and £80 which are dearer than some decent gauges and senders from other manufacturers. I wouldn't fit a capillary tube type gauge to the EVO in case of leaks!!

I prefer mechanical as less to go wrong - no fuses to blow etc.

Lecky for temp, mechy for oil.

Got a mechanical oil-pressure with Goodridge hose, works great. The gauge (Durite) came with a copper pipe but I prefer the flexability of the Goodridge.

I wanted to fit a capilary water temp gauge to my 300TDi but had problems locating an adaptor so in the end fitted a Durite electrical one instead. This is better than the OE one as it shows the actual temperature and I can see when it has reached the correct running temperature and even the slight needle movement as the thermostat opens & closes. The OE one just sat in the middle and never seemed to move.
Since fitting the electrical gauge I have sourced an adaptor but have decided not to fit the capilary gauge as it means removing the instruments again, running the sender and of course re-bleeding the coolant after the sender has been fitted. No big hassle but having just rebuilt the bulkhead & front-end I just can't be bothered.
Gauge & sender (both brand-new) in "for sale" section.

Thank you all for your comments and suggestions.

I already have a Durite electrical water temp gauge that I've not fitted, so I'll go with that. I've ordered a Durite mechanical oil pressure gauge. I like the Durite gauges and would especially recommend the turbo gauge for diesels as it only has a small sweep for vacuum, unlike most.

I see you've made your decision, but to add my bit - a capillary based temp gauge would always read low unless you found a way to compensate for the temp loss along the length, pressure loss along a capillary would be less significant

electronic! its 2013 electronic components are cheap and reliable! also much easier and more versitile to run than a pipe and no risk from severing it