GAP ID Tool use!

gstuart said:

So just checked , wow , just wow, it hardly does anything for the 2005 Range Rover, however 2006 it looks like the systems were changed and does virtually the same as mine

this is what the iid does on mine

View attachment 215947 View attachment 215948 View attachment 215949 View attachment 215950

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Howdy all,
What year is your disco G , JLR took over from BMW 05/06 ?

If OP has touchscreen he will have some or all JLR electrics . The 05 diesel I worked on had some JLR diagnostics , the BMW engine , JLR immobiliser and later EAS compressor , hitachi I think instead of Wabco. That was a **** to work on.

Pressure static when filling could be leak or compressor tired as posted above already .
IID tool is very capable but maybe on the later models.
I love my allcomms for the 02-05 years as not locked to any VIN.
My fault mate extreme is a bit too clever at times but cracking live data for things like turbo and EAS compressor pressure.
Foxwell ? I think is a very good more recent tool I believe

Thanks for all the feedback and questions.

LAND ROVER Air Suspension ECU Control Module Unit RANGE ROVER 3 L322 RQT000013 was the part the RR Indy garage said swap out on the truck, it did have a new one but they said it was the wrong year and needed to be the 0013 version. So I did!

I swapped all the parts out for each error message for that part, that was on my mates ID tool - all the faults stopped showing on us swapping out the parts.
I have my own ID tool now and really have learn how to use it.

I think I calibrated the suspension on it ok, but will need to pop over to Mark's to see if he can also give me some tips.

Thanks a million
M

Hi and thanks again, all in bold italics from me:

did u recalibrate the new EAS Ecu How do I do that?

have u checked live data using the iid, the reservoir pressure and compressor temperature No, but can do.
what’s the part number on the old and new EAs Ecu plse
LAND ROVER Air Suspension ECU Control Module Unit RANGE ROVER 3 L322 RQT000013 is the part now on the truck

would start right from the beginning ensuring all the fuses are ok, pipes / connector that the pressure sensor connects to isn’t blocked, wiring is ok, the correct VDC is also at the sensor The RR Indy said they did all this.

need to investigate the pressure sensor in a lot more detail as that’s what the fault code is indicating , where and was does it connect to plse, is it blocked behind the sensor etc OK will see what I can see.

Thanks a million for the reply and questions.
Best.
M

holidaychicken said:

Howdy all,
What year is your disco G , JLR took over from BMW 05/06 ?

If OP has touchscreen he will have some or all JLR electrics . The 05 diesel I worked on had some JLR diagnostics , the BMW engine , JLR immobiliser and later EAS compressor , hitachi I think instead of Wabco. That was a **** to work on.

Pressure static when filling could be leak or compressor tired as posted above already .
IID tool is very capable but maybe on the later models.
I love my allcomms for the 02-05 years as not locked to any VIN.
My fault mate extreme is a bit too clever at times but cracking live data for things like turbo and EAS compressor pressure.
Foxwell ? I think is a very good more recent tool I believe

Click to expand...

hi @holidaychicken

apologises and am terrible with names ,

mines a 2005 , have the hitachi on mine, see there’s also the option of the AMK, replaced mine with a dunlop as some of the prices were eye watering

indeed the compressor on mine is tucked up underneath on the passenger side, worst part was when I bought mine the suspension was in a terrible mess, trying to replace the compressors bracket was a royal PITA

see the OP has replaced his EAS Ecu, compressor and valve block , see the sensor for the OP is fitted on the tank ,

indeed am also wondering if there’s a wiring issue , leak etc

seen those other diagnostics and heard good things about them, seems then the iid is limited before 2006 on the FFRR , however on mine for some strange reason the iid has a lot more facilities , wonder if because the D3 was a new model it had full canbus where the pre 2006 FFRR didn’t, only guessing of course as I know ur extremely knowledgeable on the RR

see the op car was registered june 2005 and is a SE, alas ur know better than myself ref the centre info screen

will be interesting to see what the OP finds

Evo59 said:

Thanks for all the feedback and questions.

LAND ROVER Air Suspension ECU Control Module Unit RANGE ROVER 3 L322 RQT000013 was the part the RR Indy garage said swap out on the truck, it did have a new one but they said it was the wrong year and needed to be the 0013 version. So I did!

I swapped all the parts out for each error message for that part, that was on my mates ID tool - all the faults stopped showing on us swapping out the parts.
I have my own ID tool now and really have learn how to use it.

I think I calibrated the suspension on it ok, but will need to pop over to Mark's to see if he can also give me some tips.

Thanks a million
M

Click to expand...

Evo59 said:

Hi and thanks again, all in bold italics from me:

did u recalibrate the new EAS Ecu How do I do that?

have u checked live data using the iid, the reservoir pressure and compressor temperature No, but can do.
what’s the part number on the old and new EAs Ecu plse
LAND ROVER Air Suspension ECU Control Module Unit RANGE ROVER 3 L322 RQT000013 is the part now on the truck

would start right from the beginning ensuring all the fuses are ok, pipes / connector that the pressure sensor connects to isn’t blocked, wiring is ok, the correct VDC is also at the sensor The RR Indy said they did all this.

need to investigate the pressure sensor in a lot more detail as that’s what the fault code is indicating , where and was does it connect to plse, is it blocked behind the sensor etc OK will see what I can see.

Thanks a million for the reply and questions.
Best.
M

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hiya

ur so welcome and always nice to get appreciated , always a team effort where we all come together to help other landy owners

so see urs was registered June 2005 , what is u first series of letters/ numbers of ur vin plse , need the number near the beginning of the vin , only need the first lot so ur not revealing the entire vin number

so taken some screen shots for u ref vin number and EAS Ecu, thks for the info ref ur new Ecu, what was the part number of ur original Ecu plse

assume it worked fine before so don’t understand why the garage is saying the Ecu was the wrong one,, but we can at least 100% check of what the part number is for old Ecu by cross checking with ur vin

I also sat down and worked out what colours are which and what they do on ur sensor, so if u use a multimeter ur be able to test the sensor

EAS ECU , connector number CO867

White / PIN 46 Ground
Blue/ PIN 28 sensor signal
Yellow/ PIN 34 sensor Vdc supply

sensor , connector number C1611

white / pin 1 ground
Blue / pin 2 signal wire to EAS Ecu
Yellow / pin 3 Vdc feed from ECU


Test for pressure sensor , with engine running , also of course don’t get under the landy

so using a multimeter set to Vdc , I’m Just using the word TL, short for test lead

on pressure sensor
pins
TL to pin 1( white ) and other TL to pin 3 ( yellow ) see what voltage u have

TL to pin 2 ( blue ) and other TO to pin 3 ( yellow) see what Vdc u have

As a side note , if u look on any wiring diagram ur first see the connector number, then after that the PIN number ie on the EAS Ecu

CO867-46 , which is the white wire ,

Know I mentioned it, but plse don’t worry about the calibration for now, as I think it will be best that we get that static sensor error cleared first and we can then check everything else after

Also we can check what ur vin is to ensure the Ecu is correct

Plse let us know what u find

hope that helps

@holidaychicken , would u be so kind to see if that looks correct please , as in pin 3 should be the Vdc feed from the Ecu and pin 2 the Vdc feed back to the Ecu , also unsure the ohms reading of the sensor , assume it would be between pins 2-3 , many thks

ur so welcome and always nice to get appreciated , always a team effort where we all come together to help other landy owners
I salute you all! and thanks a million once again for the kind support.

so see urs was registered June 2005 , what is u first series of letters/ numbers of ur vin plse , need the number near the beginning of the vin , only need the first lot so ur not revealing the entire vin number SALLMAMA35A then some more numbers....! Is this the VIN?

so taken some screen shots for u ref vin number and EAS Ecu, thks for the info ref ur new Ecu, what was the part number of ur original Ecu plse Sorry I am not sure, but I am sure the one I have just fitted is the same part number it had, we had fitted another EAS ECU but was a later version the Indy told us, hence the change to 0013 version.

assume it worked fine before so don’t understand why the garage is saying the Ecu was the wrong one,, but we can at least 100% check of what the part number is for old Ecu by cross checking with ur vin It was throwing up an error message I was told and needed to be changed.

I also sat down and worked out what colours are which and what they do on ur sensor, so if u use a multimeter ur be able to test the sensor
Sorry, I don't own a multimeter, I am not a mechanic in any shape or form, I just love the L322! Can I use the ID tool for this task?

Test for pressure sensor , with engine running Via the tool? , also of course don’t get under the landy Ok, thanks.

Thanks again.
M

Evo59 said:

ur so welcome and always nice to get appreciated , always a team effort where we all come together to help other landy owners
I salute you all! and thanks a million once again for the kind support.

so see urs was registered June 2005 , what is u first series of letters/ numbers of ur vin plse , need the number near the beginning of the vin , only need the first lot so ur not revealing the entire vin number SALLMAMA35A then some more numbers....! Is this the VIN?

so taken some screen shots for u ref vin number and EAS Ecu, thks for the info ref ur new Ecu, what was the part number of ur original Ecu plse Sorry I am not sure, but I am sure the one I have just fitted is the same part number it had, we had fitted another EAS ECU but was a later version the Indy told us, hence the change to 0013 version.

assume it worked fine before so don’t understand why the garage is saying the Ecu was the wrong one,, but we can at least 100% check of what the part number is for old Ecu by cross checking with ur vin It was throwing up an error message I was told and needed to be changed.

I also sat down and worked out what colours are which and what they do on ur sensor, so if u use a multimeter ur be able to test the sensor
Sorry, I don't own a multimeter, I am not a mechanic in any shape or form, I just love the L322! Can I use the ID tool for this task?

Test for pressure sensor , with engine running Via the tool? , also of course don’t get under the landy Ok, thanks.

Thanks again.
M

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always a pleasure to help where possible

Can certainly try using the iid as it won’t hurt and says it should give u a pressure reading

If that’s the case ur need someone to use a multimeter and test the sensor inc associated wiring , shame ur not closer as I would have done that for u

Unless of course u offer beer and plenty of cake to see if someone is near u that could test it for u, lol

otherwise ur at the mercy of garages , main reason many of us do our own spannering

@Evo59 buy a DMM they are not that many beer tokens, and you will use it a lot . Well worth the money.

I have 1 that I use in the house and the garage and I think it’s at least 15yrs old think it’s paid for it self a few times over.
J

marjon said:

@Evo59 buy a DMM they are not that many beer tokens, and you will use it a lot . Well worth the money.

I have 1 that I use in the house and the garage and I think it’s at least 15yrs old think it’s paid for it self a few times over.
J

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Hi @marjon , plus 1 ^^^^^

Couldn’t agree more , including being able to save £50-100 for just a £10 outlay for a DMM

funny enough having just bought an OBD2 breakout box and a decent test light will at least allow me easier access to test the canbus system

still trying to learn a lot more about the electrical system, next investment with be an oscilloscope

gstuart said:

Hi @marjon , plus 1 ^^^^^

Couldn’t agree more , including being able to save £50-100 for just a £10 outlay for a DMM

funny enough having just bought an OBD2 breakout box and a decent test light will at least allow me easier access to test the canbus system

still trying to learn a lot more about the electrical system, next investment with be an oscilloscope

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I have a 4 channel picoscope, brilliant bit of kit for the money.
They do cheaper 2 channel ones that should be enough for what you need.

Wazzajnr said:

I have a 4 channel picoscope, brilliant bit of kit for the money.
They do cheaper 2 channel ones that should be enough for what you need.

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Many thks, seen those and heard good things about them, alas very expensive

have been looking at these, the Hantek 1008c

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hantek-1...pe-Program-Generator-8CH-USB2-0-/283882498479

got one of the Hantek clamps already , which I think will also be an ideal addition to the above

know I’ve got a lot to learn, but me being a sad Old git , lol , I really enjoy sitting down and spending untold hours seeing how things work and trying to understand them better

Plus been able to build up my testing equipment over time

Also recently found some of these wago connectors , alas had never seen them before

Christ , I’m rambling again , lol

We use cage clamp connectors all the time in control panels and I used to use wago connectors in Portugal when I lived there.
Excellent things as long as you use them correctly

Wazzajnr said:

We use cage clamp connectors all the time in control panels and I used to use wago connectors in Portugal when I lived there.
Excellent things as long as you use them correctly

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see what u mean ref using them, ie making sure the wires are properly installed, lol

have always refused to use those horrible scotchlocks

Wazzajnr said:

We use cage clamp connectors all the time in control panels and I used to use wago connectors in Portugal when I lived there.
Excellent things as long as you use them correctly

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Wago are very good, used to use hundreds of them for connection to PCB's, still have some in stock.

Good evening to you all and thanks again for the tips.

Just back from a trip to Liverpool from Notts and the old truck flew up the motorway! Can’t find LPG but that’s for another thread....

I set the height a little higher than default via my gap tool and the height maintained all the time
But I now have an additional error message saying ‘too much energy for regulation to from axle’ never had that one before.

All the suspension light switchs are on and says raising now and then, but I can’t move it up and down except via the tool

Another plus for clamp connectors Waygo (other brands available) are classed as a maintenance free connector.