GAP ID Tool use!

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Reservoir static sounds to me like there is either no pressure getting to the tank or the pressure sender isn't reading.
I have gap on my 2005 and it seems to do plenty.
I think it depends what engine you have as 2005 was the year they changed from BMW to jag engine

Does it read tank pressure or compressor pressure. Before the valves?
I thought it was before tank.
Need to check mine.

J
 
"Wazzajnr, post: 4933849, member: 129468"]Reservoir static sounds to me like there is either no pressure getting to the tank or the pressure sender isn't reading.
I have gap on my 2005 and it seems to do plenty.
I think it depends what engine you have as 2005 was the year they changed from BMW to jag engine


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Hiya

alas just looked and strange that for the 2005 it doesn’t seem to do much but does for 2006 onwards

unless of course there was an update

indeed I’m also wondering where the pressure sensor is fitted, maybe blocked pipe, leak etc
 
Just found the wiring diagrams , hopefully will help

alas won’t know until the OP comes back if the EAS Ecu was recoded when fitted

Afraid I’m not that familiar with the FFRR EAS system, assume though all the fuses have been checked , lol

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This is the fault displayed from the ID tool onto my phone.

The RR indy down the road is convinced the ECU was the wrong one after checking all the wiring etc, so I changed to the part number they said.

I just can't go 'up and down' via the buttons without using the tool. It maintains the height, compressor kicks in now and then when driving. But displays inactive again after clearing the fault.

Thanks again for your top tips.
 

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This is the fault displayed from the ID tool onto my phone.

The RR indy down the road is convinced the ECU was the wrong one after checking all the wiring etc, so I changed to the part number they said.

I just can't go 'up and down' via the buttons without using the tool. It maintains the height, compressor kicks in now and then when driving. But displays inactive again after clearing the fault.

Thanks again for your top tips.

hiya

Ur so welcome and indeed always a team effort , may i ask a few questions please , just to try and get a base line, thks

did u recalibrate the new EAS Ecu

have u checked live data using the iid, the reservoir pressure and compressor temperature

what’s the part number on the old and new EAs Ecu plse

would start right from the beginning ensuring all the fuses are ok, pipes / connector that the pressure sensor connects to isn’t blocked, wiring is ok, the correct VDC is also at the sensor

need to investigate the pressure sensor in a lot more detail as that’s what the fault code is indicating , where and was does it connect to plse, is it blocked behind the sensor etc

at least then sending back info can build up a step by step report of what’s been done
 
Done some digging , the pressure sensor screws in the reservoir air tank , part number RQH000130

First , I would get a multimeter and test to ensure Vdc is getting to it

there are of course plenty other steps, ie, checking pipes , sensor clear, etc , etc , but really need to check there first
 
Lots of good info G,:)

Seems pressure is taken at tank:oops:. Never too old to learn.

Would have to agree to start with the sensor and associated wiring to.

J
 
Lots of good info G,:)

Seems pressure is taken at tank:oops:. Never too old to learn.

Would have to agree to start with the sensor and associated wiring to.

J

thks as always , do indeed like others try and help where I can

Appreciate it, ref the sensor , also wondering if the wiring etc checks out , if the sensor hole is blocked or maybe the pipe from the valve block to the the air tank blocked ???

plus of course need to check with the OP if the EAs Ecu was reprogrammed , bet there’s nothing wrong with the original Ecu

sounds like the garage was just trying parts

as a side note the pressure sensor is fitted on my reservoir valve block
 
Just had a look at the manual I have and it shows a pressure sensor on the valve block with the compressor, so not sure where you got the dia from @gstuart dont mean that they haven’t changed stuff though.

I’ll have a look see if i have a pic.

J
 
I think there is a pressure sensor on the tank and a pressure switch on the valve block.
I suspect the one on the tank is faulty
 
I think there is a pressure sensor on the tank and a pressure switch on the valve block.
I suspect the one on the tank is faulty

Ours is 2011, so what’s changed in that time I don’t know.
I will check next time it’s in my garage over the pit. But I guess the OP will confirm when he goes looking for it/them:D
It could well have 2,

J
 
Hiya

got the details from here

https://onedrive.live.com/?authkey=!AMrvOm7c4l3jJkg&cid=4BC2D89C85C7C171&id=4BC2D89C85C7C171!26582&parId=4BC2D89C85C7C171!26573&o=OneUp

also looked at the Vins, including the gap iid , which its menus change in 2006 to have dramatically more options , so if I’m looking at these correctly the EAS on L322 changed from 2006 onwards

@marjon , that pic funny enough looks exactly the same reservoir valve that I have fitted where the pressure sensor is incorporated within it

but seems the OP’s being a 2005 is of a different design Where the sensor is fitted at the end of the air tank
 
I think there is a pressure sensor on the tank and a pressure switch on the valve block.
I suspect the one on the tank is faulty

hiya

looks like the 2005 had the sensor on the air tank and then 2006 has the sensor on the reservoir valve block

Plus one as indeed what @marjon and I , including ur goodself are thinking ref the sensor

So ref that sensor there could be a few scenarios, lol

faulty sensor
Maybe rust has accumulated on the back of the sensor
Pipe that comes from the valve block to the tank blocked , ie dryer material or rust
No voltage on the sensor
Bad connector

personally think the EAS Ecu is fine as in all seriousness how often do ecu’s fail these days,

at least the OP has plenty of info there, inc a gap iid and fingers crossed a multimeter
 
This is the pressure sensor I was thinking.
View attachment 216018

J

hi

just double checked ref the valve blocks on mine

here the reservoir valve block , inc the front one , there’s also another valve block at the back

also instead of the Voss pipe fittings I’ve replaced mine with brass pushfits , making like a lot easier inc a lot cheaper

Voss connectors are around £16, brass pushfits , around £5

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Your first pic pretty much matches mine.
hi

just double checked ref the valve blocks on mine

here the reservoir valve block , inc the front one , there’s also another valve block at the back

also instead of the Voss pipe fittings I’ve replaced mine with brass pushfits , making like a lot easier inc a lot cheaper

Voss connectors are around £16, brass pushfits , around £5

View attachment 216037 View attachment 216038

L322 is in the boot under spare so a bit safer from elements.

Your D3 looks super clean underneath:)

J
 
Your first pic pretty much matches mine.


L322 is in the boot under spare so a bit safer from elements.

Your D3 looks super clean underneath:)

J

thks as indeed also seemed that way of them being the same, alas my compressor is mounted on the passengers side chassis inside a plastic box

thks, have power washed , then steamed cleaned the inside and outside of the chassis then treated with dinitrol , inc the underneath of the body shell still looks like that today

Have been looking into this stuff as I wish to treat around the towing sockets , also Impressed with the chassis in how solid it is throughout

https://www.landroverblogger.com/product/metalmorphosis

alas don’t know if anyone else has used it
 
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