Fuel pump power issue...

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Considering all that cranking and not firing I would expect that the plugs to be soaking wet, if so there’s not much hope of starting, there’s a fuel pressure valve on the injector fuel rail or slacken an injector hose to check petrol is reaching the engine.

OK, yup, will do....thanks.
 
Dont kill the battery again cos i won't start as long as the other(main) relay is not closed(it seems that the ECU refuses to deliver earth to both relay's coils), beside what @discool said try to give direct earth to pin 85(blue/purple wire) of the pump relay and to pin 86(blue/red wire) of the main relay then try or if it's easyer bridge the main relay too for test to see if it starts then with both relays bridged
 
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OK, still no attempt to fire at all.
I have removed removed the fuel line into fuel pressure regulator & there is fuel there so that's good. I can see very minor dampness in the pipe unions on the fuel pump so that's good & I will tighten them further. With the relays jumped as suggested I can hear the pump motor whirring. I have checked the plugs again & they are still dry & clean. So with the refreshed battery I'm cranking the engine, it's turning well but absolutely no attempt to fire!!
Any thoughts on what I should try next? Perhaps something silly or minor?
 
At this point seems that the ECU is not managing the injectors so not so minor IMO... are you sure that the ECU has feed cos it should close those relays you bridged and manage the injectors too and it seems it doesnt do it's job at all
 
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At this point seems that the ECU is not managing the injectors so not so minor IMO... are you sure that the ECU has feed cos it should close those relays you bridged and manage the injectors too and it seems it doesnt do it's job at all

No, I don't know if it does, I will see if I can find out....thanks.
 
Unfortunately i dont have pre-95 diagrams so i can't tell you where to measure but IMO you should make sure that the ECU is ''active'' cos it seems very like it's not doing anything
 
First make sure the two coil top terminals & connections are clean and tight, the black/white from the coil negative terminal links directly to the ECU and carries the pulse signal to the ECU when the engine is cranking & running. No link, no EFI function.
 
First make sure the two coil top terminals & connections are clean and tight, the black/white from the coil negative terminal links directly to the ECU and carries the pulse signal to the ECU when the engine is cranking & running. No link, no EFI function.

OK thanks, I'm cleaning all the connections now. There is also 1 little cylindrical component attached to the body by the coil - is it a capacitor? Anyhow, there is a wire connected to it with a double spade connector...it's loose, not connected to anything & I don't know which terminal it should go to?
 
Is there any mileage in OP taking an injector off and earthing it, then cranking to see if anything actually sprays out? Bit old school and only to be done safely, but wouldn't that eliminate or confirm the ECU problem?
 
OK, it's a noise suppressor onto the positive side....found it.
Interference suppressor then :) in the wiring diagram previously posted u will see that the ECU has three earth connections, they will terminate local to the ECU later D1s the earth point is a stud worth checking.
There isn’t a DIY diagnosis of the ECU function unfortunately, so replacing with a known working one Is the only other DIY option.

I went through an ECU issues many years ago, the only way my main dealer could check was by replacement taken from another RR, but they weren’t able to supply a new one, there was a national shortage, but at least it was drivable... just.
I had to remove the ECU and take it the the Lucas department that dealt with LR ECUs, so off I went to Litchfield 200+ mile return in a fast car :)
Lucas put my ECU on a gig and after 90k miles not surprisingly found loads of faults, they then replace components while I waited, and updated the ECU. When fitted back in the RR the engine roared was better than ever.
That was for a 3.5 engine not a 3.9 that u have.
 
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OK, still no attempt to fire at all.
I have removed removed the fuel line into fuel pressure regulator & there is fuel there so that's good. I can see very minor dampness in the pipe unions on the fuel pump so that's good & I will tighten them further. With the relays jumped as suggested I can hear the pump motor whirring. I have checked the plugs again & they are still dry & clean. So with the refreshed battery I'm cranking the engine, it's turning well but absolutely no attempt to fire!!
Any thoughts on what I should try next? Perhaps something silly or minor?
OK, still no attempt to fire at all.
I have removed removed the fuel line into fuel pressure regulator & there is fuel there so that's good. I can see very minor dampness in the pipe unions on the fuel pump so that's good & I will tighten them further. With the relays jumped as suggested I can hear the pump motor whirring. I have checked the plugs again & they are still dry & clean. So with the refreshed battery I'm cranking the engine, it's turning well but absolutely no attempt to fire!!
Any thoughts on what I should try next? Perhaps something silly or minor?
just getting the pump running wont sort out why the relays dont work properly black one needs to switch ecu on which then switchs fuel pump relay on, without black relay working it wont run
 
Interference suppressor then :) in the wiring diagram previously posted u will see that the ECU has three earth connections, they will terminate local to the ECU later D1s the earth point is a stud worth checking.
There isn’t a DIY diagnosis of the ECU function unfortunately, so replacing with a known working one Is the only other DIY option.

I went through an ECU issues many years ago, the only way my main dealer could check was by replacement taken from another RR, but they weren’t able to supply a new one, there was a national shortage, but at least it was drivable... just.
I had to remove the ECU and take it the the Lucas department that dealt with LR ECUs, so off I went to Litchfield 200+ mile return in a fast car :)
Lucas put my ECU on a gig and after 90k miles not surprisingly found loads of faults, they then replace components while I waited, and updated the ECU. When fitted back in the RR the engine roared was better than ever.
That was for a 3.5 engine not a 3.9 that u have.


That was for a 3.5 engine not a 3.9 that u have.....
Mine is a 3.5 not a 3.9...
 
black one needs to switch ecu on...
So the black relay turns the ecu on? Then the ecu is off & is why the fuel injection is not working.
I need a better understanding of vehicle electrics...other than changing the relay itself, I need to work out how to solve the issue with the plug then...
 
However, in position they don't click, they buzz....& I dont know how to solve this or what would cause this.......is what I wrote in my original / first post.
So this appears to be the nub of the problem....does anyone have any suggestions as to where I may look to solve this?
 
However, in position they don't click, they buzz....& I dont know how to solve this or what would cause this.......is what I wrote in my original / first post.
So this appears to be the nub of the problem....does anyone have any suggestions as to where I may look to solve this?
what were the original relays like
 
However, in position they don't click, they buzz....& I dont know how to solve this or what would cause this.......is what I wrote in my original / first post.
So this appears to be the nub of the problem....does anyone have any suggestions as to where I may look to solve this?
This was answered then... measure voltage across the coil with relay in situ
 
The originals were Bosch, slightly smaller than the recent ones, grey metal cased...here's a picture
 

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