Fuel pump and no spark to dizzy

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

ukadamwest

Well-Known Member
Posts
2,990
Location
Surrey
Been having fun with the classic..

1. replaced coil the amplifier on the side of the distributor to the remote amplifier, now not getting a spark from the coil to the dizzy. been checked over by an auto electrician who checked the wiring and suspects the new remote amp is faulty.. anyone any ideas ?

2. auto electrician also did some tracing on the fuel pump issue,, with a jumper in the relay the fuel pump works and on start it gets a breif signal then drops off.. suspected ecu fault .. anyone any ideas ?
 
Will do saint. However, it was staring and running fine before installing the remote ig. amplifier, now having installed the remote amp nada.
 
What have you done wrong or installed a faulty component?:)


Meow !:)

Yep, i initially suspected myself, but auto sparky confirmed everything good, he couldnt get a good signal out of the new (from lucas box) remote amp, so that is the suspect item.
 
Can you confirm you are running on gas? and year of the car.

After 1986 there was just the amp attached to the side of the distributor and no second amp if in standard trim.

Add gas and you might have a remote amp, I used to have one on my 3.9 but I don't remember using the distributor amp as well as the aftermarket remote amp.
Think I still have a spare brand new one and even the old one and wiring with the gas kit so will have a dig around. Found the unused on its an A&R Power Amp from RPi Engineering - see http://www.v8engines.com/electrics-1.htm#Poweramp if you have one of those.

Also you should check the inertia switch under the front left seat - can put your hand in from the back of the seat.
 
Last edited:
Hi stop over its on petrol only and it's a 1990 vintage.

Intertia switch is fully functioning.

A replacement remote amp arrived in the post today courtesy of the supplier so will first off sawp that out and see it is a dicky unit.

on the remote amp (DAB118) the amp on the side of the dizzy is replaced with a dummy unit
 
Suprised you have a remote amp as a 1990 model should have an amp on the side of the dizzy?

Your first post indicated you had one on the dizzy????

Good luck with the new replacement. Let us know.

ps According to my book if the amp is under the coil on the wing then its RTC5628 (Have you checked the coil - recommend Bosch PRC6574 or Lucas)
The amp on the side of the distributor you can use either RTC5628 or PRC6574.
 
Last edited:
Yes I replaced the one on the side of the dizzy with the remote amp install. Just changed out for the replacement one.. still no dice .

This is starting to stump me.. anyone with a strobe and V8 knowledge fancy giving me a hand !
 
Ok.. put the original amp back in.. still no start. If the timing is way out of whack I would think that would result in a no spark.. can't see how it would be that out of timing. Lines were marked up and retained and still in line going back together.
 
IIRC, the dizzy is either driven via a helical drive or a dog drive...if it is helical, as you insert the dizzy the drive gears engage and can turn the dizzy out of position....if it is a dog drive, it is possible to install the dizzy 180deg out of time!

Only reason for no spark would be Air gap on dizzy pick up, the Amp, the coil or the wiring thereto.....as for fuel, the ECU needs to see the coil is firing before it introduces fuel....so go back to basics and trace all the wiring....I have somewhere wiring diagrams for the 1990 era classics and maybe some documents on the Lucas 14CUX systems...will have to see if I can dig them out for you when I get home!
 
Cheers saint, it's a helical drive.

I've traced the wiring on the rave wiring diagram. i had that to hand when i started to make sure all was correct. traced all the wiring back all is/was as should be, even had a auto sparky check it over he found it all correct. his assumption was the amp was faulty out of the box, replaced and still no joy.

i'm about to tow it outside and throw a match at it !
 
Last edited:
Cheers saint, it's a helical drive.

I've traced the wiring on the rave wiring diagram. i had that to hand when i started to make sure all was correct. traced all the wiring back all is/was as should be, even had a auto sparky check it over he found it all correct. his assumption was the amp was faulty out of the box, replaced and still no joy.

i'm about to tow it outside and throw a match at it !

RAVE is a 1995 model, there are differences i believe.....will dig out the info for you, I also have the original workshop manuals to for the earlier classics as RAVE doesnt include it!
 
The orginional amp was suspected to be playing up, doing some reading it seems the heat can cause the amp to fail so elected for the remote amplifier.

It's only one amplifier, the space on the dizzy has a dummy amplifier the actual amplifier is relocated by the coil.

ee643c2c246d7209d8bdee33f15bffde.image.690x550.jpg

Lucas DAB118 ignition remote module amplifier STC1856 Relocation Kit V8 35DLM8 Lucas DAB118 ignition remote module amplifier STC1856 Relocation Kit V8 35DLM8 [STC1856] - £49.95 : Electronic Ignition, Home of the Powerspark electronic ignition and ele
 
The orginional amp was suspected to be playing up, doing some reading it seems the heat can cause the amp to fail so elected for the remote amplifier.

It's only one amplifier, the space on the dizzy has a dummy amplifier the actual amplifier is relocated by the coil.

ee643c2c246d7209d8bdee33f15bffde.image.690x550.jpg

Lucas DAB118 ignition remote module amplifier STC1856 Relocation Kit V8 35DLM8 Lucas DAB118 ignition remote module amplifier STC1856 Relocation Kit V8 35DLM8 [STC1856] - £49.95 : Electronic Ignition, Home of the Powerspark electronic ignition and ele

Would have been easier to have just fitted a dizzy amp!! no wonder you have problems. There was a reason why after 1986 Land Rover moved to the distributor amp. They can break down with heat over time but I had years with no problems, had a spare carried anyway. And you may have refitted the distributor incorrectly as mentioned above. Can see why you bought the Remote but!

To summarise : "it was staring (starting) and running fine before installing the remote ig (ingnition). amplifier, now having installed the remote amp nada (nothing)".

So you removed a perfectly good and running amp and spent £50 pounds plus on a remote that has for some reason not been fitted correctly! I would get someone in to sort it!
 
Last edited:
Well for the money you paid and that extra TLC
you got a good one Adam

Nice to get/ hear that engine running

Sweet enjoy :)
 
Back
Top