Fuel filter change and bleeding

Due to change the fuel filter (genuine item ordered). I know I will need to purge the air out of the low pressure feed side and plan to fill the new filter with diesel when fitting it. When it comes to purging the remaining air out of the low pressure feed line I can't see how this can be achieved 100% as some air will get back in when releasing the hand pump bleed tool and reconnecting the quick release connectors at the transfer pump end of the line. I have read that the high pressure pump is self bleeding and tolerant to small amounts of air but don't know how much a small amount is. And I don't want to mess it up and have to bleed the high pressure side. Never done this job before and found nothing on youtube (other than fords and frog cars). Anybody done this job on a Puma? any advice welcome.

Got round to doing this today. Bit of a learning session for me as I've not done it before, so maybe my mistakes will help somebody - apologies to you experts if I am teaching you to suck eggs. Struggled to get the old filter off by twisting and turning it to the left, then after it finally came off found it is not attached by threads (as in a canister oil filter). The filter head is plastic and the filter fits by aligning 3 small pips and one wide pip, pushing firmly up until it clicks, then half a turn to the right to lock it in place. Removal is same but in reverse - half turn to the left and pull it off. Bit like changing a light bulb. I brimmed the new filter with fresh diesel before fitting. The seals are internal lip seals, so no need to oil them first as they get submerged in the diesel. Next was the priming. The low pressure fuel feed runs parallel to and level with the top of the rocker box and has a schraeder valve at the high point for attaching a vacuum pump for bleeding, so I fitted a schraeder valve screw-on (found in the garage) to the end of my new Draper Expert hand pump (£16 on ebay) with the intention of using it to prime. But when I took the cap off the fuel line fitting, I found the connection on the car to be different (larger thread size to the fitting I made up). So reverted to the spigot fitting on the hand pump, pulled the quick release fitting on the fuel feed line at the point where it turns 90 degrees and drops down to the fuel pump at the front of the engine. And found the spigot fitting on the hand pump was about 9.5mm diameter whereas the fuel line spigot is 10mm diameter. So I put a few turns of pvc insulating tape on the hand pump spigot, calliper checked it was now 10mm diameter and shoved it in the fuel line fitting. Got a reasonable seal and managed to pull about half a litre of fuel through the line. Got all of the big air bubbles out, but was still pulling fine bubbles (probably getting air past the pvc tape). Reconnected the fuel line, knowing there was still "some" air in there, but not very much. Started the engine, fired up straight away and left it ticking over while I tidied up. Engine running like a sewing machine, sweet as a nut.

I think I am in need of bleeding my fuel system. I had the injectors and hard fuel lines out for cleaning and had the fuel system open for about two weeks since I couldn't find the time to do it all right away. I believe that the fuel may have drained back to the tank after that amount of time. I have everything back together now, but after extended attempts at just turning it over and hoping it would start, it is not showing any signs of life.

So - thinking about options to bleed it, I like your idea of bleeding it where it makes the 90 degree turn and drop down to the high pressure pump. I do not have the vehicle near by to check, did you have to remove anything to get to the joint where you disconnected the fuel line and pumped the fuel through? I am thinking of trying to prime it with a dinghy fuel line with a priming bulb and anti re-flux valve to pull the fuel through.

Let me know your thoughts - any hints would be appreciated!

The joint is easy access, nothing in the way. But this process only bleeds the low pressure side, you will also need to bleed the high pressure side. I will see if I can find the workshop sheets for doing this and post later. Did you replace the injectors in their original locations - not mixed them up - this is important (see my reply in your other post).

Good to hear! I will get over to the shop later today and see what I can do there. I really want to see if all my work on cleaning up injectors and such pays off!

I've had a look in the workshop manual, and the Haynes manual. I can't find anything on bleeding the high pressure side, just the low pressure side. So I now think the high pressure side does not need bleeding, just priming by spinning the engine on the starter motor for 10 seconds, with 30 seconds between attempts until it starts. Then tick over until at running temperature.
As a caution, I did read that if any of the high pressure pipes are removed they should be replaced with new. So look out for leaks if reusing old .

Been thinking about this a bit more. I think the LR special tool fits the suction end to the pump feed line (filter side) and the outlet end fits into the fuel pump (or the line to the fuel pump). This means it will push fuel into the high pressure side and the fuel rail - I think. If you bleed as per my method i.e. into a jar and If your engine will not start after a few attempts, try connecting your hand pump as per the special tool.

Ok - that sounds good. I made it over to the shop yesterday afternoon with a dinghy fuel line and tested out it's ability to bleed the low pressure side of the fuel system. It worked well except that I lost some of the prime between the time I unplugged the dinghy fuel line and got the fitting plugged back into the fuel pump. But, after a few attempts I got it. I loosened the high pressure lines at the injectors and after a few attempts at turning the engine over, saw fuel flowing at the injectors. Tightened the fuel lines and tried to get it to start.

I had to hook up the jumper cables so she had enough umph - but still no start. I only had a limited amount of time - so not sure if she just needed more cranking or if there is something else going on.

I like the idea of connecting the suction end of the bleeder pump to the pump feed line (filter side) and the outlet end into the line to the fuel pump. Now I just need to figure out where those connection points are. Did you find a diagram of this connection setup? It seems like the special tool might be worth the investment.

BTW I saw the thing about using new fuel lines and ordered a new set. But I am trying the old ones because I didn't see anything wrong with them. I figured I would have the new ones on hand if there is a leak or something but try the old ones first.

Best info available ---
Don't know how much the special tool costs, but reckon finding a couple of suitable quick release couplings and fitting them to a cheapo syphon like mine or your outboard tool will work just as well.

Thanks for the information. The diagram isn't very clear - but I get the idea. Yeah - it doesn't seem like it would do much more than what I already did. I will probably order one eventually just to see.

I will get back over to the shop on Saturday and give it another try. Hopefully get her back on the road!

When I do filters on transits, I have cut the ends off an old filter & stuck them in a hose with an outboard
fuel primer then prime up filter & then prime up pump once the engine starts I quickly change the pipe
over then works every time cant imagine it would be any different on the puma

Just ordered a couple of connectors to add to my hand pump ready for when I need it next. Ebay item 113336952191. Rickshaw should deliver them any month now. Hope they fit

Got the fuel bleed, got her to start up. Now dealing with a stuck EGR valve...

Did you have to do anything to bleed the high pressure side or did it self-bleed?

Basically I think that it self-bled. I did crack the injector lines until I saw some fuel coming out - just to make sure fuel was actually making it up to the rail. But then tightened everything up and had to crank the engine a ton until it finally caught. This took longer than I thought it should but in the end it self bled and was fine. The outboard engine fuel line and bulb were great for bleeding the low pressure side - though I am sure not as good as the special tool or even a home made tool with the correct fittings.