Freelander 1 Frustrating morning belting the propshaft.

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Burnham

Burnham

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Machynlleth
I've seen the videos on YouTube and it looked so simple!

Removed the propshaft in order to replace the VCU mounting/bearings which are shot.
Got the complete unit on the bench, and I now need the magic spell that is required in order to separate the two shafts from the VCU.

Stopped for lunch, and to give the neighbours a break from the banging and shouting.

So, what's the spell or code word?

TIA!
 
Burnham said:
I've seen the videos on YouTube and it looked so simple!

Removed the propshaft in order to replace the VCU mounting/bearings which are shot.
Got the complete unit on the bench, and I now need the magic spell that is required in order to separate the two shafts from the VCU.

Stopped for lunch, and to give the neighbours a break from the banging and shouting.

So, what's the spell or code word?

TIA!
Click to expand...
LOL, been there.
Loosen the bolt just enough that the chisel is against it.
Put the whole lot on the floor.
Take the biggest hammer you have and belt the bejesus out of it.
Order new bolts to replace the one you just knackered
Simples
 
I actually bent my best chisel.
And thanks for the magic word, I nearly had it right, I'll drop the lot onto the floor and shout louder!
 
Well, one pleasant Sunday wasted!
I am beat.
F***ed if I can get them to move just 1mm.
I have a nice bruise on my thumb though, I wouldn't have got that had I been sat in the garden drinking beer.

Mondo mode for a while yet then.
 
Burnham said:
Well, one pleasant Sunday wasted!
I am beat.
F***ed if I can get them to move just 1mm.
I have a nice bruise on my thumb though, I wouldn't have got that had I been sat in the garden drinking beer.

Mondo mode for a while yet then.
Click to expand...
Its only the first 1/2mm that can be difficult!

If you're going by this video, it is about the best way to separate the props.VCU....



If you see the shape of the chisel used - you'll see they have had trouble in the past :)

Maybe some heat on the join - you don't want to damage the UJ though.

...and a bigger hammer.
 
Aye that's the video.
It's kind of like a live action Haynes book of lies.
"undo bolt and withdraw component" translates as; "curse and scream for several hours, use vary large hammer, then drink beer. The following day give it to someone else to solve."
 
Aahhh yes the good old Haynes book of lies, I remember it well, quote reassembly is the simple reversal of disassembly !
Why did I always have loads of nuts n bolts left over lol not to mention no skin on knuckles, rust and metalic debris in both eyes, bad back for weeks afterwards
I think now I'll drink coffee in the customer waiting area !
 
Let some looosen juice soak in for an hour in the sun and as above open bolt just enough to get the cold chisel in an bray ont fooker till it yields to the master
 
Burnham said:
Aye that's the video.
It's kind of like a live action Haynes book of lies.
"undo bolt and withdraw component" translates as; "curse and scream for several hours, use vary large hammer, then drink beer. The following day give it to someone else to solve."
Click to expand...
lol, have been there on numerous occasions.

In this instance though - it did what it said on the tin and my props didn't put up to much of a fight - I may have had to up the size of the persuasion tool though! Worst bit was that little metal piece falling out, slipping down between the boards over the inspection pit and getting lost in 6" of drying/rotting leaves in the bottom.... grrrrr.

You obviously have one of those props that has other minds.
 
I've had to put a stubborn prop back on, but left the bolts out. Put lots of penetrating oil on the splines and went for a little off road trip. After a few days of using it without bolts, the splines loosened up and came apart ok. Obviously you do this at your own risk ;)
 
If using a chisel, the amount yer need to undo the bolt to lever against it depends on how pointed the chisel is. A chisel tapering oft slowly is the bestist type.
 
Hippo said:
If using a chisel, the amount yer need to undo the bolt to lever against it depends on how pointed the chisel is. A chisel tapering oft slowly is the bestist type.
Click to expand...
Your're right Hippo. I never noticed how slowly tapered the one in the video was until you mentioned it. Probs custom made for the job .
 
Alibro said:
Your're right Hippo. I never noticed how slowly tapered the one in the video was until you mentioned it. Probs custom made for the job .
Click to expand...
I use what's called a cold chisel. Think they use them ont stone and bricks to cut them.
 
Aye, I'm doing some renovation work on a cottage at the mo, so I'll bring one of the stone chisels home tomorrow. (I leave all the building tools on site, to much faff carrying it back and forth.

Nodge68 said:
I've had to put a stubborn prop back on, but left the bolts out. Put lots of penetrating oil on the splines and went for a little off road trip. After a few days of using it without bolts, the splines loosened up and came apart ok. Obviously you do this at your own risk ;)
Click to expand...

Errr, I think I'll pass on that option for the mo ta!!
 
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