L322 Front suspension arm check list

I'm either making a problem here, or being helpful (let's see)...
So I've been scouring workshop manuals (can't find the rave anywhere) and forums to try pull a list together of how to replace the suspension arms (front) and sway linkages, as I'm tackling it Tomorrow.
So here's what I think is the process- please someone correct me if I'm wrong/about to be die on the drive home from level ground a friend is letting me use (my drive is a hill on a hill).
I digress, here's my process based on all I've read- all seem right for doing the lot as a oner (I know torquing may be impossible, but I can try):
1- crack wheel nuts, measure arch to centre (tape line on arch and mark with felt pen on hub)
2- jack and get on axle stands (sub frame, axle)
2b- check wheel bearing
3- wheel off
4- remove calliper and strap to strut (21mm- 12 point)
5- Remove pads and backing plate (torx bit)
6- remove height sensor from arm (2x 10mm spanners)
7- crack the 21mm nut on control arm and loosen (leave attached)
8-crack ball joint nut- leave loose for taper
9- use splitter to break ball joint taper, then remove
10- clean up ball joint recess with Emery
11- punch out bolt and remove lower arm
12- fit lower arm loosely with M14- no pinching
13- raise ball joint into hub and torque to 80nm
14- crack M14 bolt on upper arm
15- remove ball joint nut and 2x bolts (torx & 21mm)
16- lower control arm from ball joint
17- bray 7 bells of sh*@ out of ball joint until it is out, or use one of the many splitters I never seem to get to work to do it
18- clean up ball joint recess with Emery
19- lightly grease new ball joint and install with 2x torx bits (old ones to fit, then replace with new ones) and torque ball joints bolts to 60nm
20- punch out M14 bolt and remove control arm
21- loosely install new control arm with M14 bolt- no pinching
22- install new control arm into ball joint & torque to 80nm
23- jack the control arm up to the correct measurements for alligning height of hub.
24- torque up the 2x M14 bolts to 165nm- then breaker bar an additional 90 degree turn.
25- release jack from control arms to restabalise car on stands
26- refit the height sensor to lower control arm and torque to 8nm
27- remove the 2 nuts holding the anti-sway link arm, and replace linkage torquing nuts to 100nm
28- refit brake shield- torque to 2.5nm
29- check pins and grease, refit brake pads and caliper- torque to 33nm for carrier
30- wheel on, stands out and torque wheel nuts to 140nm
Repeat on opposite side.
Crack a beer, sleep for a week- sound about right to you knowledgeable folks?

Been there done that easy jobs.
New middle arms dont come with the height sensor bolt you have to swap that over.
Note angle height sensor sits at.
Also check your inner and outer track rods for play.
And check they're free to adjust and callibrate height if neede be and definitely get an alighment done afterwards.

I never removed callipers or required a ball joint splitter.

I've only done engine bits so far and it's my first FF/air suspension vehicle so feels daunting for some reason (probably as it'll be my only car come June so pressures on!)
It's a "needs some TLC" car which I've never had a problem with before- think I'm overthinking it with the added air elements (and being skint doesn't help)

Should have also added, I want to remove caliper anyway just to check it all over- checking the full works while I'm in there so I'm not back under it next week- though it is a Land rover...

My eyes went funny reading all that but if some where in there you are replacing the ball joint bolted to the hub be very very careful not to shear the two bolts its not easy trying to drill them out up hill, other than that I would say leave the door on the first catch dont shut it it stops the suspension doing things while you work on the car.

kds said:

My eyes went funny reading all that but if some where in there you are replacing the ball joint bolted to the hub be very very careful not to shear the two bolts its not easy trying to drill them out up hill, other than that I would say leave the door on the first catch dont shut it it stops the suspension doing things while you work on the car.

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Imagine typing it! I said I might be overthinking it- and I probably am because as you say, the suspension does things... I'll leave a door (or 4) open, see if it stops my brain rolling a mile a minute with it (where's the laughing at myself emoji).

Key in pocket or house and door ajar, did the two arms and ball joint left side other year have changed the arms right side end of last year got ball joint to do just so all changed, you will know doubt find it puts the tracking out, when I did the right side arms instead of steering wheel straight it was nearly third of a turn left to go straight had to adjust tracking a bit so the steering angle sensor didnt throw a fit.

kds said:

Key in pocket or house and door ajar, did the two arms and ball joint left side other year have changed the arms right side end of last year got ball joint to do just so all changed, you will know doubt find it puts the tracking out, when I did the right side arms instead of steering wheel straight it was nearly third of a turn left to go straight had to adjust tracking a bit so the steering angle sensor didnt throw a fit.

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Yeah my local tyre shop are good for getting me in (my l200 had bits going weekly so it lived there) so tracking and alignment will be done before it goes back to being my daily. The truck is why I'm doing the lot, I did one thing at a time and it was just a chain reaction lol- and as I know next to nothing about mine save the last 6 months of service and ots mot history I'm not second guessing, I'd rather replace bits and have the peace of mind. Tackling the maintenance jobs as I go but they keep getting delayed by things breaking/being faulty- but it's not my first rover

I would consider new bolts for the arms, everyone I've had in the garage ad new bolts due to corrosion... Then they can be cut out using a reciprocating saw if they are rusted into the bushes

Mark Piercy said:

I would consider new bolts for the arms, everyone I've had in the garage ad new bolts due to corrosion... Then they can be cut out using a reciprocating saw if they are rusted into the bushes

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I got new bolts and nuts except for the big m14s- cheapest I found them was a fiver a bolt
I'd rather spent the time cleaning them up!

Merloch91 said:

I got new bolts and nuts except for the big m14s- cheapest I found them was a fiver a bolt
I'd rather spent the time cleaning them up!

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I agree on cleaning them up if.... you can get them out.

Mark Piercy said:

I agree on cleaning them up if.... you can get them out.

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We'll soon find out wish me luck- just finished the bosses list of jobs- including a new oven

Well I got them out, spent a whole day belting a ball joint before it decided to free up and got the one side done. Only issue I've had was getting the wheel the right height for tightening the m14s. In the end I chucked the wheel on and nipped them up just to turn the car over as it was sat with the door open for a whole day...
Plan is to get the other side in the same boat and have the full front end on stands to do that part as it's pretty terrifying on my drive (mate changed his mind on lending me his flat ground).
Is there a sneaky/easy way to jack them up to the right road height? Or do I just plonk some wood on my trolley jack and hope nothing gives/slips? Doesn't help I'm on an uneven hill for a drive

I did what I could on the drive then nipped to my local garage for them to torque them up on the ramp. They mot all my cars so didn't charge me but I gave them £10 for the tea fund anyway.

May give that a go... Will need tracking anyway (found track rods were split ) so could do it as a oner... I'll pop over and ask em