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that page is a from a LR disco workshop manwell SJR900 ENWM dated 1991, so maybe they changed it?
Sounds feasible to me.Maby it was because the 90s prop is shorter than the discos thus creating a steeper operating angle on the 90 so having the offset helps reduce wear and vibrations. (please note this is only an assumption)
Where do you get 90 degrees from?
RAVE diagram looks about 45 degrees offset on front prop.
They dont give an actual figure. Thats why I posted the diagram in my previous post.
Both of my props have this offset and they've done nearly 120,00 miles. I changed the original UJs at 116,000 miles because one of the spiders had a small amount of play The other three were perfect but I changed them and kept them for emergency spares if needed.
Wasn't criticising just asking if you'd seen it written down anywhere. I spent too long in the military and driving across most of Africa to worry about propshaft UJ offsets before now.from workin on farms, doin bits of plant work, building me own 90's 110's and series motors they have always gone on that way trouble free, nearly all that i have removed have been either straight or at 90 degs to each other, yes i have seen them at a 45 deg,
speakin to me neighbour thats a mehanic fer nato, rebuilding landrovers, recons the same, 90 or straight, spose its up to yer self , what ever yer think is right ! just i have seen them rattle like **** at funny angles :doh:
Wasn't criticising just asking if you'd seen it written down anywhere. I spent too long in the military and driving across most of Africa to worry about propshaft UJ offsets before now.
I guess each to their own and what works for you is the way to go. I'll stick to what RAVE recommends as it works for me. I dont trust Haynes for anything other than basic stuff. I've yet to have one of their manuals without mistakes or just plain incorrect info.
The 90 propshaft is the same length as the Disco 1 though.Maby it was because the 90s prop is shorter than the discos thus creating a steeper operating angle on the 90 so having the offset helps reduce wear and vibrations. (please note this is only an assumption)
from workin on farms, doin bits of plant work, building me own 90's 110's and series motors they have always gone on that way trouble free, nearly all that i have removed have been either straight or at 90 degs to each other, yes i have seen them at a 45 deg,
speakin to me neighbour thats a mehanic fer nato, rebuilding landrovers, recons the same, 90 or straight, spose its up to yer self , what ever yer think is right ! just i have seen them rattle like **** at funny angles :doh:
Now I'm going to play devil's advocate here ....... :flame2:Quote
"hi, I read some of the thread but its hard work on a mobile phone!
why disco and defender are different I dunno!
on defender the prop goes with the sliding joint nearest the transfer box, the yokes of the uj's MUST be lined up otherwise it'll judder like fook. If you've ever studied a props characteristics..... The center part of the prop varies in speed compared to the ends so the steeper the angle, the more the speed varies. In one revolution the center section will change its speed twice. Believe it or not! Studied this in college. Stick this in the thread if ya want."
Same as RAVE says.In the Landrover workshop manual for the rangerover classic it says the sliding joint go's on the transfer box end.It also says
"The front shaft which is shorter than the rear is phased with the joints each end miss-aligned,the phasing is necessary on the front shaft only to allow for greater variation in angular changes"
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