Freelander 1 FriLL Td4 AT 3door 2002

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For about a month, Freel drove like gold, without a single stutter or crankiness (almost 700 km), but then he limped again. decided to go all-in and replace all the solenoids. It ain't cheap ( the solenoids themselves cost $450 For their replacement, all workshops (as agreed) asked for 4000 UAH (£85) I believe that this is too much for unskilled labor and undertook to replace them myself. Until the night overtook me, I managed to remove the hydroblock, one by one, so as not to confuse the solenoids and the screws with which they are attached, replace the solenoids and install the hydroblock in place. All that remains for tomorrow is to install the pan, fill in new oil, connect everything and test drive. I hope that the problem was in the solenoids...
 

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Messerschmitt said:
For about a month, Freel drove like gold, without a single stutter or crankiness (almost 700 km), but then he limped again. decided to go all-in and replace all the solenoids. It ain't cheap ( the solenoids themselves cost $450 For their replacement, all workshops (as agreed) asked for 4000 UAH (£85) I believe that this is too much for unskilled labor and undertook to replace them myself. Until the night overtook me, I managed to remove the hydroblock, one by one, so as not to confuse the solenoids and the screws with which they are attached, replace the solenoids and install the hydroblock in place. All that remains for tomorrow is to install the pan, fill in new oil, connect everything and test drive. I hope that the problem was in the solenoids...
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Well done for having a go at this. I hope it's successful. Keep us updated
 
Before climbing to the solenoids, I watched several videos. for some reason, everyone unscrews and moves aside the heat exchanger of the box itself. I still didn't understand. just unscrewed the oil drain plug from it and voila. So I changed all the solenoids, then I decided that it would be better to remove the hydroblock and replace the solenoids one by one. then it is almost impossible to confuse the arrangement of the solenoids and their screws. The tool needed for this operation: Horn keys 10 (unscrew the solenoid of the central line, as if it is called that), 19 and 24 - unscrew the oil drain tube from the heat exchanger. ratchet 1/2, head 24 - unscrew the drain plug ratchet 1/4, extension cord long, extension cord short
head 13 mm (unscrew the terminals from the battery, unscrew the battery mounting plate) and a 10mm head - unscrew 20 tray bolts and 11 hydrolock bolts and unscrew the solenoids) a little trick - in the evening I "glued" the gasket to the tray on a thin layer of sealant and in the morning I had no problems with matching the holes - everything was screwed very easily
 

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Full tank again. So, for 500 kilometers, my Hippo consumed 56.4 liters of diesel. considering that he passed half of this way outside the city - his appetite is huge. I think there may be some problems with the engine. By the way, about the engine. many people noticed a sensor on the intake pipe in the photo. Does everyone have it? Because I don't have any. Recently, a rustling noise appeared while driving. as if the brake pad is touching the brake disc. Outside there is no creaking - only in . Are these prop shaft bearings?
 
Messerschmitt said:
Full tank again. So, for 500 kilometers, my Hippo consumed 56.4 liters of diesel. considering that he passed half of this way outside the city - his appetite is huge. I think there may be some problems with the engine. By the way, about the engine. many people noticed a sensor on the intake pipe in the photo. Does everyone have it? Because I don't have any. Recently, a rustling noise appeared while driving. as if the brake pad is touching the brake disc. Outside there is no creaking - only in . Are these prop shaft bearings?
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That's about 25 MPG, which could be considered normal, depending on the vehicle and driving conditions.
It is an auto, so MPG will be reduced.
What sort of driving is being done?
If it's stop / start city driving, fuel consumption will be higher than steady highway driving.

City stop / start driving with automatic transmission, I'd expect to see 23 to 26 MPG.
Gentle highway driving at a steady 60 MPH, I'd expect to see 35 to 40 MPG.
The variation will depend on individual vehicles, weight in the vehicle, tyres fitted and so on.

Obviously if you have an issue like dragging brakes, then this will effect the MPG too.
 
Thank you! I understand that driving style also affects fuel economy as well as city/highway. In this case, I decided to change the gas station. According to sensations, the car drove faster, or is it a placebo effect))) I will look at the fuel consumption. The lack of sound in the front door was bothering me, so today I decided to cross another item off Friel's troubleshooting notebook. I started from the driver's (in my case, the left))) door and immediately everything became clear - the diffuser of the speaker unnaturally protruded forward.
I had two Bose loudspeakers in the "pantry", so I blew the dust off them and dragged them to Friel I connected it "on my knee" and they played. Ok, so the problem was really in the original loudspeakers. It's a pity that the fastening did not match - we had to make two new holes and fasten the non-original loudspeakers with self-tapping screws to the door. I hope that I will overcome Scrooge in myself and buy H&K and while enjoying the fullness of the sound. (loudspeakers and high-frequency grilles spoil the sound a little, create buzzing)
 

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Today I "trimmed the wings" of my Freelander. As I thought - the noise came from the suspension bearings. I know exactly what fits from Ford Transit and katsapian GAZelle (Volga 33029, etc.) I also plan to give the viscous coupling for restoration. And while it's summer, Freel will ride on his own two)
I was a little saddened by the condition of the body - especially the thresholds. Welding work will probably have to be done in the winter.
 

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Аbout a week ago, the battery charge light came on. But I didn’t have time to take the car to the masters, so for several days, after the working day, I charged the battery from the charger) eventually found time and made an appointment. At 9⁰⁰ I brought the car, at 11⁰⁰ I got a call that it was ready! replaced bearings, graphite contacts, copper contact rings. I paid 2600.00 hryvnias (£52) for everything. Now I know for sure that everything is fine with the generator)
 
500 kilometers on the odometer again, refueling again and a full tank. 50 liters! So I have 10 liters per 100 kilometers. It remains a mystery what exactly affected the fuel consumption - the cardan was removed or the gas station was changed?
 
Recently, a problem happened with the FriLL - it stopped driving more than 110 km/h. As if something is holding him. I was aware of some weak points under the hood and eventually started removing them. First of all, I replaced the MAF sensor. Since it is still native, diagnostics showed problems with this sensor. It was not installed by the original - Pierburg. I also ordered a 3mm silicone vacuum hose (three meters long) And at the nearest junkyard of BMW bought a vacuum receiver, because mine had traces of unqualified repair
When I removed the air pipes from the engine and followed the tube from the brake booster to the EGR valve, I noticed that this tube was completely worn, so I replaced it (although I could just install a plug because my EGR is blocked)
The FriLL drove better and it was as if nothing was holding it by the tail. I will test further.
 

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Messerschmitt said:
Recently, a problem happened with the FriLL - it stopped driving more than 110 km/h. As if something is holding him. I was aware of some weak points under the hood and eventually started removing them. First of all, I replaced the MAF sensor. Since it is still native, diagnostics showed problems with this sensor. It was not installed by the original - Pierburg. I also ordered a 3mm silicone vacuum hose (three meters long) And at the nearest junkyard of BMW bought a vacuum receiver, because mine had traces of unqualified repair
When I removed the air pipes from the engine and followed the tube from the brake booster to the EGR valve, I noticed that this tube was completely worn, so I replaced it (although I could just install a plug because my EGR is blocked)
The FriLL drove better and it was as if nothing was holding it by the tail. I will test further.
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It would take a long time for me to realise if mine was restricted to 110.

While I may cruise around at about an (indicated) 110, its very rare I head over that.
 
So it happened, I became the happy owner of R18 Sport Wheels. Together with the tires. A set of 5 wheels cost me UAH 6,200 (£115). However, the tires do not fit at all (235/40). I will remove the tires for the winter, sell them and buy something I need (235/50?). I ordered 4 new tires for the winter of the Ukrainian manufacturer (now there are good discounts))) 215/65 16 (£135) for 4 wheels
 

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Тherefore: the car drove more cheerfully, but still not as it should be. I suspect the vacuum pump. Judging by the program, this is the SQJ100090L pump, aka 11662248170 in BMW. Does anyone know, can tell me the numbers of the parts to be repaired (sealing rings, gaskets) or their sizes?
 
Messerschmitt said:
So it happened, I became the happy owner of R18 Sport Wheels. Together with the tires. A set of 5 wheels cost me UAH 6,200 (£115). However, the tires do not fit at all (235/40). I will remove the tires for the winter, sell them and buy something I need (235/50?). I ordered 4 new tires for the winter of the Ukrainian manufacturer (now there are good discounts))) 215/65 16 (£135) for 4 wheels
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That's a good price on wheels and the tyres.
 
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