Freelnader TD4 05 Cold Bottom Hose
- Thread starter johntd4
- Start date
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Pikey
Dummy Ejection Facilitator..
- Posts
- 47,185
- Location
- in Baron Wet Bum's Slave pit..
air lock or thermostat not opening. or it's frozen have you checked the antifreeze is at the right concentration.
Pikey
Dummy Ejection Facilitator..
- Posts
- 47,185
- Location
- in Baron Wet Bum's Slave pit..
not frozen then 
never worked on a gaylander so dunno about thermostat. but wouldn't be surprised.
never worked on a gaylander so dunno about thermostat. but wouldn't be surprised.
pardec
Active Member
- Posts
- 993
- Location
- South Manchester- North Devon
Had a quick look at "Rave" and it looks like a nightmare
1. Disconnect battery earth lead.
2. Remove camshaft cover gasket.
3. Drain cooling system.
4. Remove RH front road wheel.
5. Remove ancillary drive belt.
6. Remove engine lower steady.
7. Remove hydramount.
8. Release 2 clips securing hose to coolant rail
and thermostat housing.
9. Release and remove hose.
10. Release clip and disconnect expansion tank
hose from coolant rail.
11. Loosen clips and remove turbocharger outlet
hose.
12. Remove bolt coolant rail to exhaust manifold.
13. Remove bolt, fuel rail to coolant rail.
1. Disconnect battery earth lead.
2. Remove camshaft cover gasket.
3. Drain cooling system.
4. Remove RH front road wheel.
5. Remove ancillary drive belt.
6. Remove engine lower steady.
7. Remove hydramount.
8. Release 2 clips securing hose to coolant rail
and thermostat housing.
9. Release and remove hose.
10. Release clip and disconnect expansion tank
hose from coolant rail.
11. Loosen clips and remove turbocharger outlet
hose.
12. Remove bolt coolant rail to exhaust manifold.
13. Remove bolt, fuel rail to coolant rail.
14. Remove bolt, coolant rail to cylinder head.
15. Remove 3 Allen screws securing heat shield to
coolant rail.
16. Remove bolt, release coolant rail from
thermostat housing and discard seal.
17. Remove heat shield.
18. Adjust height of engine on hoist for access to
coolant pump bolts.
19. Remove 4 bolts and coolant pump.
20. If applicable, cut tags on coolant pump gasket
(applies to original fit gaskets only).
21. Remove and discard coolant pump gasket.
22. Remove 4 bolts and remove thermostat
housing from coolant pump. Discard seal.
Refit
1. Clean mating face of thermostat housing and
coolant pump.
2. Fit new seal to thermostat housing.
3. Fit thermostat housing to coolant pump and
tighten bolts to 8 Nm (6 lbf.ft).
4. Clean coolant pump and mating faces on
engine and upper coolant rail.
5. Fit a new gasket and coolant pump to engine.
Tighten bolts to 10 Nm (7.5 lbf.ft).
6. Fit heatshield.
7. Fit new seal to coolant rail, fit rail to thermostat
housing and tighten bolt to 8 Nm (6 lbf.ft).
8. Tighten Allen screws securing heat shield to 8
Nm (6 lbf.ft).
9. Tighten bolts securing coolant rail to 20 Nm (15
lbf.ft).
10. Tighten bolt fuel rail to coolant rail to 10 Nm (7.5
lbf.ft).
11. Fit turbocharger outlet hose and tighten clips.
12. Connect expansion tank hose to coolant rail
and secure with clip.
13. Fit hose to coolant rail, connect to thermostat
housing and secure hose with clips.
14. Fit hydramount.
15. Remove engine lower steady.
16. Fit ancillary drive belt.
17. Fit road wheel(s) and tighten nuts to 115 Nm
(85 lbf.ft).
18. Fit camshaft cover gasket.
19. Connect battery earth lead.
20. Refill cooling system.
1. Disconnect battery earth lead.
2. Remove camshaft cover gasket.
3. Drain cooling system.
4. Remove RH front road wheel.
5. Remove ancillary drive belt.
6. Remove engine lower steady.
7. Remove hydramount.
8. Release 2 clips securing hose to coolant rail
and thermostat housing.
9. Release and remove hose.
10. Release clip and disconnect expansion tank
hose from coolant rail.
11. Loosen clips and remove turbocharger outlet
hose.
12. Remove bolt coolant rail to exhaust manifold.
13. Remove bolt, fuel rail to coolant rail.
1. Disconnect battery earth lead.
2. Remove camshaft cover gasket.
3. Drain cooling system.
4. Remove RH front road wheel.
5. Remove ancillary drive belt.
6. Remove engine lower steady.
7. Remove hydramount.
8. Release 2 clips securing hose to coolant rail
and thermostat housing.
9. Release and remove hose.
10. Release clip and disconnect expansion tank
hose from coolant rail.
11. Loosen clips and remove turbocharger outlet
hose.
12. Remove bolt coolant rail to exhaust manifold.
13. Remove bolt, fuel rail to coolant rail.
14. Remove bolt, coolant rail to cylinder head.
15. Remove 3 Allen screws securing heat shield to
coolant rail.
16. Remove bolt, release coolant rail from
thermostat housing and discard seal.
17. Remove heat shield.
18. Adjust height of engine on hoist for access to
coolant pump bolts.
19. Remove 4 bolts and coolant pump.
20. If applicable, cut tags on coolant pump gasket
(applies to original fit gaskets only).
21. Remove and discard coolant pump gasket.
22. Remove 4 bolts and remove thermostat
housing from coolant pump. Discard seal.
Refit
1. Clean mating face of thermostat housing and
coolant pump.
2. Fit new seal to thermostat housing.
3. Fit thermostat housing to coolant pump and
tighten bolts to 8 Nm (6 lbf.ft).
4. Clean coolant pump and mating faces on
engine and upper coolant rail.
5. Fit a new gasket and coolant pump to engine.
Tighten bolts to 10 Nm (7.5 lbf.ft).
6. Fit heatshield.
7. Fit new seal to coolant rail, fit rail to thermostat
housing and tighten bolt to 8 Nm (6 lbf.ft).
8. Tighten Allen screws securing heat shield to 8
Nm (6 lbf.ft).
9. Tighten bolts securing coolant rail to 20 Nm (15
lbf.ft).
10. Tighten bolt fuel rail to coolant rail to 10 Nm (7.5
lbf.ft).
11. Fit turbocharger outlet hose and tighten clips.
12. Connect expansion tank hose to coolant rail
and secure with clip.
13. Fit hose to coolant rail, connect to thermostat
housing and secure hose with clips.
14. Fit hydramount.
15. Remove engine lower steady.
16. Fit ancillary drive belt.
17. Fit road wheel(s) and tighten nuts to 115 Nm
(85 lbf.ft).
18. Fit camshaft cover gasket.
19. Connect battery earth lead.
20. Refill cooling system.
richijones
Member
- Posts
- 64
- Location
- Huddersfield
Hi
Hot water enters the radiator at the top and cooled water leaves via the bottom hose, so i would expect the bottom hose to be cold or cool depending on how cold the air is. Does the engine get to the correct operating temp(gauge pointing to mid) if it is i would guess the thermostat is doing it job, if it was stuck open the engine would run cold. The heater i mine seems to take ages to get hot. If yours is really poor could be an air lock or blocked matix. Do the heater controls/ flaps work ok?
Hot water enters the radiator at the top and cooled water leaves via the bottom hose, so i would expect the bottom hose to be cold or cool depending on how cold the air is. Does the engine get to the correct operating temp(gauge pointing to mid) if it is i would guess the thermostat is doing it job, if it was stuck open the engine would run cold. The heater i mine seems to take ages to get hot. If yours is really poor could be an air lock or blocked matix. Do the heater controls/ flaps work ok?
ianda12
Active Member
- Posts
- 837
- Location
- Gravesend, Kent
Freelanders rad's are miles to big and so the bottom hoses are normally cold.
Are you getting cold air or no air out of the vents ? Mine had hardly any air coming out so it felt cold. I removed the pollen filter and now it warms up lovely.
Are you getting cold air or no air out of the vents ? Mine had hardly any air coming out so it felt cold. I removed the pollen filter and now it warms up lovely.
Removing the water pump/stat' assembly is easy enough, I changed my water pump a while back.
1..put car on stands
2..remove wheel, sump guard, and splash guard
3..remove drive belt- 24mm combination spanner
4..drain coolant by disconnecting bottom hose from pipe bolted to sump
5..undo bolts holding above pipe to sump, this pipe will then come out with the pump so no need to fanny about with the clips
6..support engine, I used trolley jack and block of wood
7..remove lower engine steady
8..remove air inlet plastics
9..remove bolt holding power steering pipe to engine
10..remove/loosen upper engine steady
11..remove nut from hydramount
12.. CHECK ENGINE IS SUPPORTED
13 remove 4 bolts from engine mount and remove mount
14..remove bolt holding small coolant pipe into top of thermostat housing
15..lower/raise engine to get at bolts holding water pump to engine, 3 from below, 1 from above
DO NOT STRAIN THE POWER STEERING PIPE
16..carefully remove the complete water pump, thermostat housing, and large coolant pipe. You have to put a bit of pressure on it to get it from the small coolant pipe so be carefull.
17..remove o ring from coolant pipe,and water pump gasket from engine and replace with new ones
18..split water pump from stat housing and fit new a new seal
19..fit new o ring to small coolant pipe and push stat housing fully home and fit bolt finger tight for now.
20..slide new seal between pump and engine and fit bolts
21..put it all back together to correct torques etc, refill and test
I didn't remove the coolant pipe from the back of the block coz you have to remove turbo pipes, cam cover and all the injectors to do that
1..put car on stands
2..remove wheel, sump guard, and splash guard
3..remove drive belt- 24mm combination spanner
4..drain coolant by disconnecting bottom hose from pipe bolted to sump
5..undo bolts holding above pipe to sump, this pipe will then come out with the pump so no need to fanny about with the clips
6..support engine, I used trolley jack and block of wood
7..remove lower engine steady
8..remove air inlet plastics
9..remove bolt holding power steering pipe to engine
10..remove/loosen upper engine steady
11..remove nut from hydramount
12.. CHECK ENGINE IS SUPPORTED
13 remove 4 bolts from engine mount and remove mount
14..remove bolt holding small coolant pipe into top of thermostat housing
15..lower/raise engine to get at bolts holding water pump to engine, 3 from below, 1 from above
DO NOT STRAIN THE POWER STEERING PIPE
16..carefully remove the complete water pump, thermostat housing, and large coolant pipe. You have to put a bit of pressure on it to get it from the small coolant pipe so be carefull.
17..remove o ring from coolant pipe,and water pump gasket from engine and replace with new ones
18..split water pump from stat housing and fit new a new seal
19..fit new o ring to small coolant pipe and push stat housing fully home and fit bolt finger tight for now.
20..slide new seal between pump and engine and fit bolts
21..put it all back together to correct torques etc, refill and test
I didn't remove the coolant pipe from the back of the block coz you have to remove turbo pipes, cam cover and all the injectors to do that
edge
Active Member
- Posts
- 576
- Location
- Shropshire
Have you tried leaving it ticking over on the drive to allow the engine to get hot without the cooling effect of the air flow over the rad,if left long enough it should get hot enough to start the fans running at this point feel the bottom hose it should be hot.
Disco Shoes
New Member
- Posts
- 14
I realise this is an old thread but thought I'd add something in case someone with the same problem does a search. I had the same problem and as someone rightly stated earlier in the thread this is caused by the thermostat not opening and can lead to the car overheating. My car seemed to only overheat on the motorway and was ok around town as the fans could keep the temp guage within normal limits. I had my thermostat replaced and can confirm the mechanic said it was a tricky job...he tested the old thermostat and it wouldn't open.
Singvogel
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 2,971
I'd better add my little bit too.
To get max efficiency from the heater you really need to bleed any air out of the system.
The bleed screw is on the heater return pipe. That's the highest point on the system and even a little air will reduce the full flow you need to get the interior as warm as it can go - won't make much difference to the engine temp though.
Its a black plastic screwy-thing fitted to the return pipe - you don't even need a screw driver - a one pence coin fits the slot on mine - very easy - best check this out before investigating the thermostat which really is a big job on the TD4.
To get max efficiency from the heater you really need to bleed any air out of the system.
The bleed screw is on the heater return pipe. That's the highest point on the system and even a little air will reduce the full flow you need to get the interior as warm as it can go - won't make much difference to the engine temp though.
Its a black plastic screwy-thing fitted to the return pipe - you don't even need a screw driver - a one pence coin fits the slot on mine - very easy - best check this out before investigating the thermostat which really is a big job on the TD4.
MULDERKE
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 708
- Location
- No Mans Land
Y
Yoo have too much time on yours hands, And consequently, talk through another opening not being a Facial one
Cheers. Sir..
pardec
Active Member
- Posts
- 993
- Location
- South Manchester- North Devon
Holy F**** thread reply.......8 years late
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