Alibro
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LOL, sounds like a good starting list.
Freelanders last breath......
- Thread starter CPD1973
- Start date
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CPD1973
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- West Coast Scotland
How's this project progressing?
Ok I have the all the bits and pieces ready for instal, (belt, tensioner, pump} and am confident I can do this part
however I am needling to read up.......... / grow a pair to deal with this (below quote)
I have read various threads and it’s seems to be a job that can go horribly wrong if you let it........
My hesitation is about taking the RHS camshaft (wheel / sprocket) off to extract the old seals and put the new ones in.... (I have the seals)
I have a very good Makita 18v rattle gun but I need to fully understand how you get the wheel of without frigging the timing.
I have read that there is a special tool that goes in where the starter is but it’s a garage only tool, I just haven’t got my head round this part yet.
And pointers would be great.
Alibro
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Don't worry about it too much, if you have a rattle gun it will take off the crankshaft pulley bolt without too much trouble, some put the car in gear and yank on the hand brake but you probably won't need too. Then put the bolt back in and set the timing by turning the engine over from the crank. Make sure you check the marks at the cam pulleys with a mirror before you start so you know exactly how they should look after fitting the new belt. The cam pulleys come off easily if you loosen the bolts before taking off the timing belt.
You need either a cam locking tool (less than a tenner) or make up a tool to let you turn the cam pulleys when the belt is off. I made a tool for the job but others prefer to lock the cam pulleys.
CPD1973
Active Member
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- West Coast Scotland
I have the cam locking tool, pretty little blue one from draper CLT-K16
I will read up in my new Haynes manual on the job, but,
In principle it’s.
1. Line up all the timing marks to the correct posssitions.
2. Check with a mirror where the lower marks are,
3. Leave the car in gear and put the handbrake on
4. Insert the cam locking device but leave the belts tight
5. Put the rattle gun onto the offending sprocket nut and loosen only.
6. Check nothing has moved
7. Continue to take everything off ( bits of car, engine mount, belts, pump, tensioner and RHS sprocket
8. Carfully replace the seals without damaging anything
9. Put everthing back together following advice from this thread, other threads of more detail and the Haynes manual.
10. Turn the key and pray it works as advertised !
11. If YES then undertake a secondary FULL service and bring the car back into use.
I will read up in my new Haynes manual on the job, but,
In principle it’s.
1. Line up all the timing marks to the correct posssitions.
2. Check with a mirror where the lower marks are,
3. Leave the car in gear and put the handbrake on
4. Insert the cam locking device but leave the belts tight
5. Put the rattle gun onto the offending sprocket nut and loosen only.
6. Check nothing has moved
7. Continue to take everything off ( bits of car, engine mount, belts, pump, tensioner and RHS sprocket
8. Carfully replace the seals without damaging anything
9. Put everthing back together following advice from this thread, other threads of more detail and the Haynes manual.
10. Turn the key and pray it works as advertised !
11. If YES then undertake a secondary FULL service and bring the car back into use.
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Alibro
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- Northern Ireland
All sounds good except you missed the most important bit, remove the cam lock before starting the car.
Yes some have done it. You'll find it impossible to get the timing belt tight enough on the exhaust pulley unless you turn the crank back a degree or two, then when the belt is fitted turn it back to the marks to tighten the belt then feed the belt around the rest of the pulleys. You might have to loosen the tensioner completely to get the belt around it.
If you find an easier way to do it then share.
CPD1973
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- West Coast Scotland
Ok I have a selection of tools, blocks, clamps..... secure the pulley in a secure solid manner. Got it.
I've never had that problem Nodge - always use the locking tool and it seems to take the abuse well
I've never had that problem Nodge - always use the locking tool and it seems to take the abuse well
I suspect the quality of locking tools is variable. Mine would also probably hold out, but I've seen some designs twist in use. I use the universal lever type above, simply because it fits many vehicles and is incredibly strong.
CPD1973
Active Member
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Any chance of a link to buy the tool, means I can delay doing the job for a few more days it’s raining today anyway !
I agree with Nodge - the tools he's shown are extremely robust and useful on a range of engines. As I have tended to restrict myself to K-series in recent years, I've used the alloy cam lock tool. Mine's Draper and I've used it frequently without problems. They're available from a variety of websites and resellers. I think I may have got mine 10 years ago off the bay of fleas.
This EBay item 163028261679 is what I've used for years. It's been used on loads of different engines and other things over the years.
Sorry about using the eBay listing number, but I can't link to eBay at the moment.
Here's the link, just in case it's my end not working. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/163028261679
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For under £15, looks good value!
Did the link work? It didn't when I tried it, so I put the listing number instead.
As for cost. I'm sure it was about £10 when I bought mine.
I put the link on with my phone, but it didn't work when I clicked it. It's something to do with the phone's default to app I think. I've put all the information on now anyway.
