Freelanders last breath......

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I think it’s just me....... never been very good at computers....... very frustrating when it should be so simple !

BE3D6B2B-140F-41DF-85B9-39D097710DCB.jpeg
BE3D6B2B-140F-41DF-85B9-39D097710DCB.jpeg
 
Well today has been the day....... the weather was good, the kids away, the parts were there and I had at long last gathered the courage to get it done ! Now I am sure it should have gone a lot quicker but hay ho better late than never. From star to finish was 7 hours.... I must say I was pretty nervous when it came to removing the exhaust crankshaft wheel in order to replace the seal, I had fabricated a retention bar but at some point it all went horribly wrong and the one of the wheels moved ! I was devastated as I though this is is I’ve ballsed this one up for good ! I turned the wheel back to the marks and hoped for the best. I replaced the tensioner, the water pump, the crank seal, the timing belt and one auxiliary belt (still need to do the other) it was a hell of a mess and I needed to do quite a bit of cleaning as water and oils had gotten everywhere. Tensioning the auto timing belt was definatly a challenge and needed quite a few adjustments befor it was correct, a pain to do but with patience it was fine. After putting it all back together the moment of truth was there and I cleaned the plugs made a prayer and turned the key...... it started first time as it always has. I have not driven it yet as I was bushed and had not eaten for 8 hours......but it was running without any strange noises. I will test drive it tomorrow. I would like to thank everyone who has been supportive and patient with my endeavours, I COULD NOT have done it without this forum. Thanks you.

Next will be test drive and see if it’s all working as should and to ascertain if the moved exhaust wheel is actually gone back in the right place without damaging the engine, I assume it’s ok as it’s running just fine but who am I to jump to conclusions......

If it all goes well then it will get a good service and a wax oil.

I will flush the raidiator system and refill with correct stuff
I will flush the engine with some chemical and then change the oil and filters
Change the fuel filter
Spark plugs
Check the dif oils

Anything elts ?
 
Well...... it starts but is rough. It has not been run for quite a few months and I did have all the plugs out and mixed them up but I think I may have buggered it...... i drove it up the hill and about a mile and it runs ok has power and pulls fine it’s just seems to be firing badly so I assume the timing is out..... such a shame that I made a hash of the timing wheel with my home made retaining bar........ should have paid the extra and gotten the right tool. Feeling a bit deflated after all my hard work. The exhaust is buggered so it’s a noisy bugger so it’s hard to tell what’s going on.
I guess I have a few options.
1. Just keep driving it until it blows up
2. Replace the plugs on the off chance that it’s one of them........
3. Take the opportunity while it still runs to get it off the island and give it away.
4. Unknown option ?

Any advice would be great as I need to make a decision ASAP as winter is coming and I don’t want it sitting around the yard deteriorating for the next six months if it’s buggered.
 
Unless the cam pulley is still out of time, letting is move a few degrees when timing it won't do anything. The crank timing mark puts the pistons well down the bores, so valve to piston contact can't happen. I'd go with plugs first, as long as you are sure all the timing marks are lined up correctly.
 
When I got mine done it ran and sounded like a bag of spanner’s,turned out one of the coil packs wasn’t on properly and the tapping noise just went after a few days o_OI’m sure there will be an explanation but I don’t know it
 
Nodge68 said:
as long as you are sure all the timing marks are lined up correctly.
Click to expand...
Yup.....well..... when I was putting the exhaust wheel back on I was fumbling around with my home made clamp and the trying to tighten the wheel...... the cam locking devise fell out as I was tightening the wheel just as my ****e home made clamp slipped and the wheel jumped round and ....... so I kept as calm as possible pushed the wheel back on hoping that it was still in the correct place and then tightened it up and then put it back to the correct position.... however the initial “jump” was all a bit spontaneous and I am not 100% sure everything went back perfectly aligned as there was no way to tell once the wheel was off. I just did my best. I will track down some plugs and see if this helps....... what are coil packs ?
 
They go on top on your spark plugs,one of mine wasn’t on correctly and I thought the lad had the timing out but put it on and it was running fine.
 
CPD1973 said:
Yup.....well..... when I was putting the exhaust wheel back on I was fumbling around with my home made clamp and the trying to tighten the wheel...... the cam locking devise fell out as I was tightening the wheel just as my ****e home made clamp slipped and the wheel jumped round and ....... so I kept as calm as possible pushed the wheel back on hoping that it was still in the correct place
Click to expand...

The pulley is locked to the cam by a roll pin, so it can't go in the wrong place. Once the bolt is tight, it's fixed in the correct place, as long as you can see the pin in the slot marked EX.
I'd definitely check out the plugs first.
 
So I just went out and pushed all the “coil packs” on as tight as I could and took it for another test drive, it as MUCH better much more even power and generally sounded smoother.... great stuff and thanks for the advice. I have ordered a set of plugs as I would now like to try and get it running as smoothly as possible. I will need to look at the exhaust, it needs something Heath Robinson doing to it as it’s not used on public roads.... just got to find some suitable pipe........so so far it’s all looking a lot more promising than yesterday and I am re inflating !
 
Put new plugs in today and that made a big difference, not missing at all now and runnning well. Dissolved a couple of dishwasher tablets in water and flushed it out as best as I could, refilled and am now getting the air out of the system by releasing the breather screw near the bulkhead.
My question is about the thermostat, I have not given it a good run (can only drive 2 miles before I hit the sea.....) but I am starting to think the thermostat could be duff... I had it out about a year ago and popped it into a jug of boiling water and it did it’s thing ! However now when I run the car the bottom of the raidiator is cold and the bottom pipe seems to only be getting residual heat back from the engine. How long should it normaly take for the thermostat to open up ? Don’t want to make any assumptions !
 
CPD1973 said:
Put new plugs in today and that made a big difference, not missing at all now and runnning well. Dissolved a couple of dishwasher tablets in water and flushed it out as best as I could, refilled and am now getting the air out of the system by releasing the breather screw near the bulkhead.
My question is about the thermostat, I have not given it a good run (can only drive 2 miles before I hit the sea.....) but I am starting to think the thermostat could be duff... I had it out about a year ago and popped it into a jug of boiling water and it did it’s thing ! However now when I run the car the bottom of the raidiator is cold and the bottom pipe seems to only be getting residual heat back from the engine. How long should it normaly take for the thermostat to open up ? Don’t want to make any assumptions !
Click to expand...
Depends on the ambient temperature, in the winter the thermostat may not open for several minutes or about 5 miles. In the summer it may open after a mile or two.

Col
 
CPD1973 said:
now getting the air out of the system by releasing the breather screw near the bulkhead
Click to expand...

You also need to clear any air out the bottom coolant rail. There's another bleed screw in the bottom coolant, above the gearbox bell housing. ;)
 
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