Freelander TD4 2005

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New diff seals and seal mud guard, fuel tank cradle, and diff mounts ordered. :)

Was nice and sunny this morning, so a quick couple of pics as it looked so good. :)

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Front does look mean! lol :D

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Looking good indeed. I just about finished sump guard today but not put it on yet. I was going to put some pictures on last week because I cleaned it but then the weather went crap and it's filthy again. So I am going to try again tomorrow. So it will rain
 
Looking good indeed. I just about finished sump guard today but not put it on yet. I was going to put some pictures on last week because I cleaned it but then the weather went crap and it's filthy again. So I am going to try again tomorrow. So it will rain

Cheers, I'm off for a week now so will definitely be raining lol.......sounds good mate, you'll have to start a thread on your Freelander. :)
 
Cheers, I'm off for a week now so will definitely be raining lol.......sounds good mate, you'll have to start a thread on your Freelander. :)
Hope it is dry for your week mate. I would start a thread but we are scarily doing similar things at similar times to very similar cars so I am leaving it to you . Seriously I will put some pictures on when it is suitably clean. A question though; on the sump plate what drainage / ventilation holes are necessary? I have the TD4 2006 face lift too. Thanks mate
 
Hope it is dry for your week mate. I would start a thread but we are scarily doing similar things at similar times to very similar cars so I am leaving it to you . Seriously I will put some pictures on when it is suitably clean. A question though; on the sump plate what drainage / ventilation holes are necessary? I have the TD4 2006 face lift too. Thanks mate

Yeah me too, got loads to do. Haha....great minds and all that lol. I just copied the original drain holes at the time. The Mantec sump guards have no drain holes whatsoever. :)
 
Yeah me too, got loads to do. Haha....great minds and all that lol. I just copied the original drain holes at the time. The Mantec sump guards have no drain holes whatsoever. :)
Yes I saw the Mantec one had no holes but read somewhere that the plastic one helps cooling or ventilation or something but maybe I will just give it a go and see what happens...... that looks stupid written down. How many times have I done that in life and ended in trouble haha
 
Yes I saw the Mantec one had no holes but read somewhere that the plastic one helps cooling or ventilation or something but maybe I will just give it a go and see what happens...... that looks stupid written down. How many times have I done that in life and ended in trouble haha

lol......mines been ok with original holes drilled in. :)
 
Was starting to get blue smoke on start up when cold. So thought I'd check the PCV, on a garage receipt from April (approx 2k miles since then) says replaced PCV BMW mod. Well actually no, yes was a BMW part but date stamped 2002 and was the filter type. So I brought a OE complete PCV (vortex type) from eurocarparts using a 40% discount code I found. 40 mins later, job done. Engine runs better, drives better, still a bit of blue smoke. But that should clear in next week or so. :D

New PCV Part no, no at top of Barcode is the eurocarparts no. And they had one in stock.

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New PCV

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All in place

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Old one, only done 2k miles.

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Pretty mucky. When I changed mine to the vortex type you could have wrung out that little bog roll filter and done an oil change on a lawn mower with the drippings. Can't imagine why it was fitted all the way up to 2006.
 
Pretty mucky. When I changed mine to the vortex type you could have wrung out that little bog roll filter and done an oil change on a lawn mower with the drippings. Can't imagine why it was fitted all the way up to 2006.
I wonder if it was left to generate a bit more maintenance that could be billed by LR but I'm cynical like that. On a separate note, if I bolt new aluminium sump guard to subframe does that work ok? I am wondering if I will need to put a rubber spacer or similar between sump guard and subframe to stop any rattling or vibrations or is it ok to just bolt down? If that makes sense? It's very clear in my head until I wrote it down
 
I wonder if it was left to generate a bit more maintenance that could be billed by LR but I'm cynical like that. On a separate note, if I bolt new aluminium sump guard to subframe does that work ok? I am wondering if I will need to put a rubber spacer or similar between sump guard and subframe to stop any rattling or vibrations or is it ok to just bolt down? If that makes sense? It's very clear in my head until I wrote it down. BTW....And it is raining as I knew it would because I washed the car earlier to take photos to post haha QUOTES]
 
I actually believe that the fluffy filter works better than the vortex type. A Dyson uses the vortex principal to spin dirt out of the air. But just check out the Dyson motor filter. That's full of fine dust that the vortex didn't remove.
The same can happen with the TD4 vortex filter.
The main reason for blue smoke with the fluffy filter, is the PC valve itself sticking open.
The vortex assembly comes with a new PC valve, so the blue smoke generally dissappears. I still reckon more oil goes into the engine with the vortex filter if lots of high speed, low boost driving is done.
 
I actually believe that the fluffy filter works better than the vortex type. A Dyson uses the vortex principal to spin dirt out of the air. But just check out the Dyson motor filter. That's full of fine dust that the vortex didn't remove.
The same can happen with the TD4 vortex filter.
The main reason for blue smoke with the fluffy filter, is the PC valve itself sticking open.
The vortex assembly comes with a new PC valve, so the blue smoke generally dissappears. I still reckon more oil goes into the engine with the vortex filter if lots of high speed, low boost driving is done.
You see? I knew there would be an explanation. I am just too cynical. It's a curse
 
I wonder if it was left to generate a bit more maintenance that could be billed by LR but I'm cynical like that. On a separate note, if I bolt new aluminium sump guard to subframe does that work ok? I am wondering if I will need to put a rubber spacer or similar between sump guard and subframe to stop any rattling or vibrations or is it ok to just bolt down? If that makes sense? It's very clear in my head until I wrote it down

Mines just bolted straight on, no rattles or anything. :)
 
I actually believe that the fluffy filter works better than the vortex type. A Dyson uses the vortex principal to spin dirt out of the air. But just check out the Dyson motor filter. That's full of fine dust that the vortex didn't remove.
The same can happen with the TD4 vortex filter.
The main reason for blue smoke with the fluffy filter, is the PC valve itself sticking open.
The vortex assembly comes with a new PC valve, so the blue smoke generally dissappears. I still reckon more oil goes into the engine with the vortex filter if lots of high speed, low boost driving is done.

The engine in a BMW has more power to start with and uses a vortex system. Hopefully it won't clog up like the filter does, and as I brought a full assembly the PC valve should be good for a while. :)
 
The engine in a BMW has more power to start with and uses a vortex system. Hopefully it won't clog up like the filter does, and as I brought a full assembly the PC valve should be good for a while. :)

The vortex assembly was used after problems started with clogged filters in M47 powered BMWs. The vortex can't clog in normal circumstances, so is better in that respect. It doesn't make huge amount of difference if a small amount of oil mist gets into the combustion chamber. There could be a potential for some oil loss, but in the Freelander it's probably minimal.
See how you find it and report back. You never know, you might convince me to do the mod to mine;)
 
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