Freelander, Rear Window Fault

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I can never understand why peeps disconnect the battery before changing it. Keeping the system live during a change reduces the risk of problems to almost nil.
 
busa1300 said:
Hi just reading thru this after having 2 hour nightmare post battery change. Following connecting new battery the rear glass opened as advertised in all threads and hand book. Just a tip here I've had the landy 7 months and the rear glass has never dropped completely into the rear door. I was unaware that this was incorrect. Tried all reset procedures but the glass continued to open after using either dash or tail lock switch also giving 4 quick bleeps at top and bottom of the window travel. I de trimmed the rear door and with the door opened fully using a screw driver closed the latch mechanism so the ccu thinks the tail gate is shut. You can now operate the window and see what's going on inside. I noticed that the rear wiper electrical loom has come away from the plastic securing clip. This was causing the glass to stop some 2 inches or so from fully down. Duct tape applied to secure the loom in place. Close the rear door and follow standard reset procedure and hey!!!! All done.
Bloody nightmare as I said. How long does it take to change a main battery???
Click to expand...
Re changing main battery

For mine radio code not needed. Simple job about 10 minutes max as long as the clamp bolt can be unscrewed, usually it can't as it just spins in the lower fixing.

Cutting off the original bolt and using a different fixing method seems to be the only answer, do a search as there are a few different suggestions.
 
Thanks nickcc for reply I was actualy being cynical about the time to change a battery, sorry for misunderstanding.:cool::welcome:
Mad hat man, yep totaly agree but my "croc clip" link detached, so I lost the circuit. my point was that my Birmingham barrel of fun can't be the only one that has had the cheapo clips that hold the wiper arm control loom , detatch and prevent the window from full drop into the tail gate.
Just trying to be helpful to others who will no doubt have the fun trying to re set that "awesome" idea at the rear
Basically if the window does not full travel down, you will never get it to reset at the up position.
Best regards
 
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busa1300 said:
Thanks nickcc for reply I was actualy being synicle about the time to change a battery, sorry for misunderstanding.:cool::welcome:
Mad hat man, yep totaly agree but my "croc clip" link detached, so I lost the circuit. my point was that my Birmingham barrel of fun can't be the only one that has had the cheapo clips that hold the wiper arm control loom , detatch and prevent the window from full drop into the tail gate.
Just trying to be helpful to others who will no doubt have the fun trying to re set that "awesome" idea at the rear
Basically if the window does not full travel down, you will never get it to reset at the up position.
Best regards
Click to expand...

Missed the cynicism thought it was a genuine question. After nearly four years of being a member nothing should surprise me.
 
great read guys, I have been fighting for a couple weeks now with my rear window, after all the disconnect/reconnect battery, check fuses, try the self check (which I never could get into with the rear fog/on/off/on sequence) I am pretty sure since my window will not drop and I have now lost power to both the rear wiper and defrost that the car thinks my rear window is down or door open. I tried to open it a few inches and slam close to reset, but no avail.

Is there any other way to force or fool the rear window down so I can reset the system and re-calibrate. Or how about removal of the rear top window trim so the door will open and close?? (any instructions on removing this trim without breaking it would be helpful, -29 out today with wind-chill, so no time to experiment )

I am open to suggestions... there has to be an over-ride somewhere or somehow.
 
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Hi Tibo, not sure from your post if you can actualy open your rear door fully. If you can I managed to trick my window to drop by pushing the rear door latch mechanism over ( door open) to make the CCU think the rear door was shut. Then if you have any power to the window motor you can get it to drop while you have a good look inside the door (trim removed)
Sounds more serious tho as you say you have lost power to wiper and heated window element. The rear window as you know is on its own fuse so unless the other two fuses have also gone, you have a wiring issue in the loom coming into the door itself
I have no idea how else to drop that window
Good luck!
 
thanks, I can only open the door maybe an inch as the window hits the top trim. Originally I hade power to the wipers and the rear defrost, but after I tried to re-set the CCU by disconnect/re-connect the battery I lost power, which seems to indicate that the CCU thinks the window is already down or the rear door is open.
Subsequent attempts to reset the CCU all failed to lower the window on reconnections.

I am pretty sure if I can open the rear door fully and shut, I will be able to recalibrate the window, but that top exterior trim keeps this from happening.

I have been trying to get into the self test mode via the turn ignition on, press and hold rear defrost, turn ignition off and back on.... but with absolutely no success. Apparently in self test mode you can over-ride the system checks and force the window down? :monitor_punch:
 
tibo said:
thanks, I can only open the door maybe an inch as the window hits the top trim. Originally I hade power to the wipers and the rear defrost, but after I tried to re-set the CCU by disconnect/re-connect the battery I lost power, which seems to indicate that the CCU thinks the window is already down or the rear door is open.
Subsequent attempts to reset the CCU all failed to lower the window on reconnections.

I am pretty sure if I can open the rear door fully and shut, I will be able to recalibrate the window, but that top exterior trim keeps this from happening.

I have been trying to get into the self test mode via the turn ignition on, press and hold rear defrost, turn ignition off and back on.... but with absolutely no success. Apparently in self test mode you can over-ride the system checks and force the window down? :monitor_punch:
Click to expand...

Hi you will have lost rear window calibration when you undid the battery so the rear wiper and heated rear screen wont work until you get the window to work and re calibrated...so don't worry about those!

Here is a good link to take the trim off from around the rear window.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/wet-rear-headlining-removal-tailgate-plastic-trim-249338.html.
 
thanks Brack, I will try that as soon as it warms up (-26 C today), I also think I will hit the junk yard and do a test run on one there first :D just to be on the safe side. I found lots of diagrams and pics on removing interior trim panels, nothing on the exterior so this really helps get things started
 
I love this forum!!
This is exactly what my freelander did today, and thanks to you guys and the window reset info, I am now back up and running normaly.

Cheers
 
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