Freelander, Rear Window Fault

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It was working perfectly prior to the episode with the handle.
Every time the battery has been disconnected previously, the window lowered (As it should) when the Neg. lead was reconnected and the window calibrated first time.
If I remove the Neg. lead for about 10 secs., the window lowers about 30-40mm and stops when the lead is reconnected. If the process is repeated, the window will drop a further 30-40mm each time.
I swapped the latch assembly today with a known good one and the problem is still the same.
The battery is good and the regulator mechanism is definately not fouling on cables etc. inside the door cavity.:deadhorse::confused2:

Thanks for the input....appreciated:clap2:
 
wonder if the rear wiper is in the park position - is it working ok

Also does the 'door open light' go out on the dash when you shut the tailgate?
 
Brack said:
wonder if the rear wiper is in the park position - is it working ok

Also does the 'door open light' go out on the dash when you shut the tailgate?
Click to expand...

:behindsofa:

Good call there Brack.......Just been out and checked.

Yes, the "Door Open" indicator lamp on the dash is working correctly.. BUT The rear wiper and washer is not working !! Checked the fuses (F1 & F30) and they are both good. Had a quick check on the rear wiper connector and it is in position and secure. The loom from the wiper is secure and shows no signs of damage in the tailgate cavity (I have the trim & moisture membrane removed completely).


You could have very well hit the nail on the head !!!:clap2::clap2::clap2:
 
Is this a "Chicken & Egg" situation ??
Does the window have to be calibrated before the rear wash/wiper will work....Or...does the rear wiper have to be in the Park position before the window can be calibrated ???

Due to the fine weather I have not used the rear wash/wipe for some time but a few weeks ago I fitted a pushbutton switch for the Ronbox in the switch blank to the right of the steering cowl. I remember securing ht cable out of the way of the pedals to some wires behind the dash. Maybe I have disturbed the connectors to the wash & wipe switches on the cowling ????
I will have a look later and post my findings.........:confused2::confused2::confused2:
 
OldIrishWulf said:
Open the door ,remove the door card ,open the nuts that clamp the glass in place. Then remove the glass and then the window regulator . you dhould see which cable is broken .You could do a diy job using bicycle brake cable and solder or buy a cable set off ebay lots of sellers .

Keep note of where the cables enter the motor mechanism . Its easy enough .

and welcome .
Click to expand...

Just a comment regards window regulator repair. The right hand cable on mine had started to breakup and the broken strands were stopping the window dropping more than a few inches, I bought a complete new regulator with motor for about £70 rather than faff about replacing the cables as I'd already changed the drivers window cables on my daughters fiesta and my O/S/R window. When I stripped out the old regulator I was pleased I had bought the complete unit as the aluminium cable fixing brackets had corroded so badly that new cables would not have locked in place.
 
Update....

Checked the connectors to both the wash and wipe switches-they were both in place and secure. :scratching_chin::scratching_chin:
I will check the supplies to & from both relays and also check they are working o.k.
If that checks out, then I'm beginning to think CCU :eek:
Pity I didn't keep the Faultmate, I could have forced the wipers and washers plus tried the calibration with that !!!
 
Irishrover said:
Is this a "Chicken & Egg" situation ??
Does the window have to be calibrated before the rear wash/wiper will work....Or...does the rear wiper have to be in the Park position before the window can be calibrated ???

Due to the fine weather I have not used the rear wash/wipe for some time but a few weeks ago I fitted a pushbutton switch for the Ronbox in the switch blank to the right of the steering cowl. I remember securing ht cable out of the way of the pedals to some wires behind the dash. Maybe I have disturbed the connectors to the wash & wipe switches on the cowling ????
I will have a look later and post my findings.........:confused2::confused2::confused2:
Click to expand...

I will go and do some tests with my known working one...see what happens and get back to you.

1/ pull the wiper fuse while at park position,disconnect battery and
recalibrate.

2/ pull the wiper fuse at mid swipe, disconnect battery then try recalibrate
 
Good Man Brack....I am off shortly, down to the Midlands for a few days. I shall have my laptop with me so can track any posts.
One of the things I am doing down there is picking a headlining up from an excellent breakers in Bedworth near Coventry. I may see if he has a CCU and I know a good Independent in B'ham with Test Book who owes me a couple of favours and hopefully he can either check the CCU function or clone the replacement if needs be.
I personally don't think there is a problem with the relays, it would be strange for them both to pack up at the same time.
As I will have to strip the panels out of the rear of the car to change the headlining, I will check the loom connector etc. from the tailgate (My original loom) but having another look this morning, the loom looks fine inside the tailgate. In any event I would think that the washers would still work as the pump motor is under the front bumper and there is no wiring for them in the tailgate, just the rubber hose to the washer jet.
Look forward to receiving the results of your checks.
Many thanks...John
 
Result

1/ pull the wiper fuse while at park position,disconnect battery and
recalibrate = recalibrated ok

2/ pull the wiper fuse at mid swipe, disconnect battery then try recalibrate = recalibrated ok

Sorry if I put you onto a red herring ....:eek:

The tailgate window switch on the dash will not operate the glass at all when the wiper is disconnected - no beeps even.

The only beeb i got was when the glass caught the mid positioned wiper on the way up the glass returned to the bottom because of this (safety feature).

Neil.
 
If it's anything similar to the P38, it's built into the motor and detects when the window stalls and remembers the positions, i.e. Open & Closed.
The calibration procedure is very similar to the p38 window reset-drive the window fully open whilst holding the switch down and then drive the window up holding the switch until you hear a bleep. It then "Learns" these positions until the battery is disconnected and they have to be "Taught" again.
 
Decided to see if anything else doesn't work and discovered that the heated rear screen switch is not illuminating, which it did before :eek:
Definately something has gone haywire and having hands on experience of working on P38 Becm's, I'm of the opinion more so, that it's the CCU (Body Control module).
I have just arrived at my Sisters in Walsall and it's grub and a few bevvies :5bcheers2:
Will then get the multimeter out tomorrow.

Thanks for all the input and help....really is appreciated
John:)
 
Irishrover said:
Decided to see if anything else doesn't work and discovered that the heated rear screen switch is not illuminating, which it did before :eek:
Definately something has gone haywire and having hands on experience of working on P38 Becm's, I'm of the opinion more so, that it's the CCU (Body Control module).
I have just arrived at my Sisters in Walsall and it's grub and a few bevvies :5bcheers2:
Will then get the multimeter out tomorrow.

Thanks for all the input and help....really is appreciated
John:)
Click to expand...

:behindsofa:
Just had a quick read of the electrical manual on RAVE....The heated rear window operation is disabled by the CCU if the window is not calibrated.

Had a read of Creeds post and it seems very much like the problem I am having so I will change the regulator first and update .
 
Last edited:
FURTHER UPDATE....
It's fixed !!!!:5bparty:
Replaced the regulator and everything is working again-rear wash & wipe, heated screen. Obviously the CCU is disabling all of these if the window is not calibrated.
On a slightly different note, I am going to put the car on Test Book tomorrow and disable the feature which unlocks the drivers door only using the remote and needs a second press to release the other doors. I find that feature a pain in the butt !!:mad:

Just like to say thanks to Brack and everyone else for their input.:praise:
 
2.0_hippo said:
I think it must be to do with calibration. i will re-calibrate tomorrow and see if that sorts it. this thread seems to be just my problem:

"TAIL DOOR GLASS OPENS AUTOMATICALLY IMMEDIATELY AFTER CLOSING

Bulletin Number - 0104

Issue - 1

Date - 28.08.2002

Model - Freelander

Affected Range - All derivatives

Re-Issue Information

Problem -

TAIL DOOR GLASS OPENS AUTOMATICALLY IMMEDIATELY AFTER CLOSING

Cause

Tail door glass calibration incorrectly set within the Central Control Unit (CCU).

Action

Where a complaint of the above is confirmed, follow the calibration procedure below to reset the tail door glass.

Calibration procedure

1. Disconnect the battery earth lead. Refer to Workshop Manual, General Information, Electrical Precautions, Battery disconnection.

NOTE: Allow ten seconds to elapse between disconnection and connection to erase the stored calibration value.

2. Connect the battery earth lead.

NOTE: The tail door glass will drop approximately 2 seconds after the battery has been connected.

3. Start engine.

4. Ensure that all electrical loads, i.e. lights, heater etc. are turned off.

5. Increase the engine speed to 1500 rev/min for 10 seconds, after 10 seconds and whilst maintaining 1500 rev/min, carry out the following operations:

Close the tail door glass to calibrate the CCU.

Fully open the tail door glass.

Fully close the tail door glass.

If the tail door glass remains closed the calibration procedure is complete, refer to step 6.

If the tail door glass opens then repeat the calibration procedure from step 1.

6. Allow engine to idle then switch off engine."
Click to expand...
I am having same problem but once done and I push rear wiper switch the rear glass stops
Working and have to do it all again any ideas guys much appreciated
 
Hi all
hope u can help
I changed my regulator on my rear tailgate door as the cable had snapped
(I got the regulator from another freelander 2001) i have an 05 td4

My problem is that when i put the window up , It comes straight back down.
I cant caliberate this as the window will not stay up long enough.

By some miracle i have managed to get the window to stay up but its not all the way
( I have put some tape round the top to stop any rain water coming inn)

I would appreciate any help
Kind regards Dave
 
Hi just reading thru this after having 2 hour nightmare post battery change. Following connecting new battery the rear glass opened as advertised in all threads and hand book. Just a tip here I've had the landy 7 months and the rear glass has never dropped completely into the rear door. I was unaware that this was incorrect. Tried all reset procedures but the glass continued to open after using either dash or tail lock switch also giving 4 quick bleeps at top and bottom of the window travel. I de trimmed the rear door and with the door opened fully using a screw driver closed the latch mechanism so the ccu thinks the tail gate is shut. You can now operate the window and see what's going on inside. I noticed that the rear wiper electrical loom has come away from the plastic securing clip. This was causing the glass to stop some 2 inches or so from fully down. Duct tape applied to secure the loom in place. Close the rear door and follow standard reset procedure and hey!!!! All done.
Bloody nightmare as I said. How long does it take to change a main battery???
 
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