LOL, I never thought of it like that.The replacement wheels look much better!
Is the lift so high you need the wooden step Alibro (see pictures above)? Lol
I was hoping to get the boot door in undercoat today but being dragged out to church and family life put paid to that.FWIW Warren at MuddyMods now has 5mm spacers.
I reckon my 70 series tyres have given me about an extra inch of lift. I've decided not to fit my 50mm lift kit
as SWMBO wasn't impressed at having to get into the Hippo with just the change from the tyres.
Hi Ali, I presume the issue is excessive positive ? - it may be that you have hit the limit on the camber bolts ... hopefully not. - maybe just a tweak needed.I was hoping to get the boot door in undercoat today but being dragged out to church and family life put paid to that.
So with not much done I was thinking about the 5mm wheel spacers I've ordered and remembered what Rich said earlier.
I checked the spacers on Muddymods site here
https://www.muddymods.com/products/5mm-wheel-spacer-accurate-cnc-laser-cut
They look much more substantial and I suspect the would fit very nicely but are 4 times the price. If the ebay cheapies prove to be rubbish I might just try Joe's trick of cutting the face off some old disks I have lying around. Hopefully the new ones will be here tomorrow and so I can try them and report back.
I also forgot to mention yesterday I have pretty substantial camber on my front wheels even after taking the car up and down our rough lane and into a field so will have to investigate that. Hopefully I've the camber bolts in the wrong way round and it'll be a simple fix.
Yes, agreed, it will have pulled off a bit of positive no doubt.Caster angles will be markedly out too - again more of a problem for road use than off-road, where the increased ride height will trump the disadvantages. Will be interesting to see what impact the 50mm lift kit has on the tracking parameters!
Might be a tad expensive for adjustable one - Maybe homemade - cut, drill tap and rosejoint ? - or preferably the quality cheap way - cut -carefully fit external sleeve ie - (hack it in half and bash a bit of pipe over it) - then adjust length and weld it.Perhaps DD has some adjustable rear tie bars?
Only fronts but I might still be able to get the rear bits too. Might be worth a try as I don't want to screw up the ones on the car. Would it still pass MOT if the were cut and lengthened? I suppose I could swap them over after getting MOT.Yup, that'd work just as well
Ali, haven't you got a spare set of suspension components you can modify if needed?
Absolutely no issue for the MOT Ali. It just needs to be finished neat and tidily with any rough welding ground back and feathered - and it will be absolutely fine.Only fronts but I might still be able to get the rear bits too. Might be worth a try as I don't want to screw up the ones on the car. Would it still pass MOT if the were cut and lengthened? I suppose I could swap them over after getting MOT.
Potentially really really easy... just look at medium weight commercial steering tie rods at a breakers, they tend to have all the opposing thread parts and are available as internal and external threads - HGV's can supply humongous units so the range is every possible combination.If you're really clever, you may be able to put in a turnbuckle in there to provide fine-tuning adjustment
I may be a bit thick here... but this extending the trailing arms is so that the wheel sits in the middle of the arch - when the suspension is compressed - won't that push your wheel into the arch (bodywork at the rear of the arch) as the trailing arm swings up? Presumably the arm is quite angled down now so if it compresses to horizontal (or near horizontal), the wheel will move backwards a fair bit.
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