Freelander k series 1.8 won't start after rebuild

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Taffman1

Member
Posts
15
Location
Mere, WIltshire
HI you lovely people, I was wondering if anyone could help me sort out my freelander 1 1.8 k series before i phone the local scrappy to come take the thing away.
Basically the timing bety tensioner came off and the belt slipped damaging 7 values. I stripped it down and replaced the damaged valves, replaced the head gasket and put it all back together.

Lined the crank shaft timing mark, lined up the cam shaft timing marks (can't get it any closer than 1/2 tooth apart)

Car won't start, it turns over and there it makes a splutter noise (a very quick one, say 1/2 a second) and some times there is a bang (possibly backfire) sound coming from the air intake.......

What have I done wrong? please help............
 
Sounds like the cam timing is off. Have you got the cam pulley roll pins in the correct slots? The front (exhaust cam) pulley should have the roll pin in the slot marked EX. The rear (inlet cam) should have it's roll pin in the slot marked IN.
I hope that makes sense.
 
Nodge68 said:
Sounds like the cam timing is off. Have you got the cam pulley roll pins in the correct slots? The front (exhaust cam) pulley should have the roll pin in the slot marked EX. The rear (inlet cam) should have it's roll pin in the slot marked IN.
I hope that makes sense.
Click to expand...
Checked that, they are correct, this us why I'm confused
 
My experience of reassembling a 1.8 petrol is that when all is lined up accurately the T belt slips on easily. If it's out, even just by a wee bit, it's a pig to push on. Like Nodge said, check everything is as it should be. cam pulleys fitted correctly and lined up. Crank pulley set to the correct position... As I said, when all's lined up as it should be there will be no 1/2 a tooth out.
 
Are you sure you haven't got the crank 360° out of phase with the cams?
 
Last edited:
Nodge68 said:
Can you post a picture of the cam pulleys with the timing marks lined up?
Click to expand...
[GALLERY=]
image.jpeg
[/GALLERY]
image.jpeg
 
The problem is at the bottom pulley. The mark you are aligned to close TDC. The cams are timed at 90° off TDC. The marks for cam timing are correct. The crank pulley mark is under the drive belt pulley. These marks consist of 2 dots that line up with a pointer on the pump housing.
 
Last edited:
Nodge68 said:
The problem is at the bottom pulley. The mark you are aligned to is TDC. The cams are timed at 90° off TDC. The marks for cam timing are correct. The crank pulley mark is under the drive belt pulley. These marks consist of 2 dots that line up with a pointer on the pump housing.
Click to expand...

Haynes manual shows timing mark as "A" and that's where mine is aligned with

image.jpeg
 
Taffman1 said:
Haynes manual shows timing mark as "A" and that's where mine is aligned with

View attachment 101734
Click to expand...
I've never used a Hayes manual for the K1.8. I didn't know that mark was there. Rave shows the marks on the cam belt pulley to oil pump pointer. I wonder if there is a difference? I'm sure the timing is set with the crank at 90° ATDC. The mark shown by Haynes is about 45° ATDC
20160603_202112.png
 
Taffman1 said:
If it is 360 out, how can I rotate the crank without damaging the valves?
Click to expand...
Hi Taffman
If the crank is rotated 360 degrees it will end up in EXACTLY the same position - the crank cannot be '360 degrees out' . If you think about this it is nonsensical.:(
Providing the CORRECT timing marks on the crank and cams are aligned then everything mechanically is definitely in the correct position. .:cool:
A compression test would be useful. Also check all injector connectors and ignition for correct positioning.

Joe :)
 
Last edited:
Joe_H said:
Hi Taffman
If the crank is rotated 360 degrees it will end up in EXACTLY the same position - the crank cannot be '360 degrees out' . If you think about this it is nonsensical.:(
Providing the CORRECT timing marks on the crank and cams are aligned then everything mechanically is definitely in the correct position. .:cool:
A compression test would be useful. Also check all injector connectors and ignition for correct positioning.

Joe :)
Click to expand...
This did confuse me a lot lol... All timing marks line up, I get spark from all plugs, I can smell fuel in the bores when I took out the plugs. I must be doing something wrong. Looks like m going to have to give in and get a mechanic to have a look. Shame as I was determined to do it myself. As the compression test and injector connectors and ignition positioning are beyond my limited skills
 
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