Freelander k series 1.8 won't start after rebuild

If your two cam pulleys are half a tooth out then one of them is a whole tooth out.
Before you start take the keys and hide them, others here have tried to start the car while tired or distracted and caused serious damage.
Take the crank pulley and belt off again, line up the crank as shown with the two dots, loosen off the idler to give you a chance of getting the belt on, line up the two pulleys perfectly, use pegs to hold the belt tight to the bottom pulley and feed the belt around the exhaust side, with your cam pulley tool turn the exhaust pulley back a tad, pull the belt around the exhaust pulley, tighten the exhaust pulley against the belt and recheck the pulleys are still aligned with a small mirror, if OK use another peg or two to hold the belt tight to the exhaust pulley, feed belt around other pulleys and idler and tighten idler, check everything still lined up, swear when something slips and do it all again until successful, stand back and smile at your brilliance.
This is how I do it. It might not be the best way and someone might come back with a better way but I've done it 4 or 5 times now and it works.

A few things.
Don't try to start the car until the crank pulley is back on or the belt will creep off and trash your engine.
If you have a cam locking tool slip it in once the belt is tight around the exhaust pulley but do not forget to take it out before trying to start the car.
Before you do any of the above take the two cam pulley bolts out and double check the roll pins are at the correct ends of the slots.
Good luck

Yes, don't use the mark on the crank pulley for cam timing. The pulley is only located by a small bump on the end of the key and it moves around while tightening quite eaily. You MUST take off the pulley and use the two dots on the cam belt gear.

The above advice re: re-checking the correct mechanical timing is essential and very sound - also check the Dizzy cap again please -

Use this image as a guide. The cylinders are numbered from the timing belt end of the engine 1 - 2 - 3 - 4

Ensure the correct lead from the 1 2 3 4 positions of the distributor go to the correct spark plug. (the numbers should also be marked on the dizzy cap as per the image.


Joe

I know this is a bit late, but all these old posts help people with the same problem I.E. Me! unfortunately not this time, I went through the same problems, total rebuild refit, strip refit again, check wires relays inertia switch etc, in the process of going through everything again so i had disconnected the fuel line and cranked it (being lazy i still had ignition system connected) suddenly it fired up, great till it used the fuel, bizarrely when I reconnected the fuel line it started and ran good. I'm like WTF but thank you! Only thing I can think of is possible over pressure in the inlet manifold.

Might have released an air lock perhaps? Glad that worked though David!