Freelander 1 Freelander EV

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Now I've proven I can drive the leccy motor with the Nissan inverter I decided to make a start on the Freelander
Found half the soil in Ireland behind the wheel arch liner on the drivers side. Maybe some evidence of past mishaps.
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So carried on stripping in preparation for the engine removal.
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I'm hoping to get the engine out this weekend so that I can measure the gearbox for the coupler and adapter plate.
 
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Wow. Mine and my Tonga 1.8 project was almost clean under the arch liner, and definitely less rusty.

You'll need to clean and treat that Ali, just to add to your work, as I'm sure you've not got enough to do. :oops:
 
Nodge68 said:
Wow. Mine and my Tonga 1.8 project was almost clean under the arch liner, and definitely less rusty.

You'll need to clean and treat that Ali, just to add to your work, as I'm sure you've not got enough to do. :oops:
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LOL, I know, the nearside was spotless by comparison so I suspect the car spent some time in a ditch in it's life. I think there was so much soil packed in it was permanently damp . It'll be a quick rub down and paint over probably with chainsaw oil once it has dried out but I'll not spend too much time on it. I still haven't finally decided what's going to happen to this car and have even thought of spraying it with truck bed liner but I don't think it will be a long term driver.
 
Alibro said:
I still haven't finally decided what's going to happen to this car and have even thought of spraying it with truck bed liner but I don't think it will be a long term driver.
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Ideally you need to get a couple of years out of it Ali.
A: it'll give you time to shake down any issues.
B: it'll give you the chance to look for a suitable long term donor.
;)
 
Nodge68 said:
Ideally you need to get a couple of years out of it Ali.
A: it'll give you time to shake down any issues.
B: it'll give you the chance to look for a suitable long term donor.
;)
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As far as I know the mechanicals are OK with this car but the appearance is terrible with the paint peeling everywhere so I'm not sure it will even last that long.
 
Alibro said:
As far as I know the mechanicals are OK with this car but the appearance is terrible with the paint peeling everywhere so I'm not sure it will even last that long.
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As long as possible is best, as it gives time for the reasons already mentioned. ;)
 
So the enormous lump of diseasil badness is now out!
As suggested by Nodge I dropped it down rather than trying to lift it out. This was probably the safer route and for the most part went well.
Up to the point where I tried to pull it out.
Lets just say the transition from this.

IMG_20201017_162224222.jpg


to this.
IMG_20201017_170541003.jpg


resulted in rather a lot of oil and coolant spilling onto my garage floor.
While trying to swing the trolley jack towards the planned exit the whole thing tipped over and fell off so it was sitting at a bad angle spilling it's guts. As quickly as I could I pulled the jack away and shoved a piece of wood under the sump, then pulled it back upright. In the end this helped as I didn't need to lift the car any higher and was then able to slid it out on the wood far enough to be able to unbolt the IRD and gearbox.

IMG_20201017_172910777.jpg

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So now the clean up, both of my garage and the parts I plan to keep and use. As you would expect for a diesel with 140k miles everything is covered in oil.
 
Nodge68 said:
You're making decent headway Ali.

Will you be selling the ICE related components?
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Yes mate, planning to sell the engine complete as it is and anything else I can once I've confirmed I don't need them. I spent most of the day today clearing up the mess from yesterday, also bolted the subframe back in and put the wheels back on so I can move it in and out of the garage.
 
Photos of all sides of an engine really help when you have to work on it in car.

I have a spare TD4 engine on an engine stand so that I can get the right size tools ready!!! Broken crank but used for parts and reference.
 
andyfreelandy said:
Photos of all sides of an engine really help when you have to work on it in car.

I have a spare TD4 engine on an engine stand so that I can get the right size tools ready!!! Broken crank but used for parts and reference.
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I agree - an invaluable resource. Strangely, my wife doesn't quite understand this... ;)
 
Nodge68 said:
None of them understand Rob. Mine can't understand why I buy lumps of metal, then keep it in my workshop, just in case I need them. :oops:

I personally can't see my metal stock collection is much different to her shoe collection.:confused:
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I know! She sees this as hoarding. As if I would do such a thing with valuable automotive parts. Doesn't she know that the part you give away or get rid of will be the same one you need to go and buy for an extortionate price the following week when you need it?
 
Alibro said:
Now Nodge!!! You should know better than to try and bring logic to the situation. :eek:
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Unfortunately Ali, I apply logic to most situations. It's one of my failings. :(
rob_bell said:
I know! She sees this as hoarding.
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It is hording, but for good reason. ;)
rob_bell said:
As if I would do such a thing with valuable automotive parts.
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I would, and loads of other "useful" junk too.:eek:
rob_bell said:
Doesn't she know that the part you give away or get rid of will be the same one you need to go and buy for an extortionate price the following week when you need it?
Click to expand...

It's funny how that works isn't it, which is why us horders keep on hording. ;)
 
Back on topic you useless bunch. :p
Nodge and I have been corresponding about the coupler and he has kindly agreed to use his lathe to machine the parts for me. I have most of the stuff required but I need to confirm the thickness of the adapter plate so we know how long to make it. I'm also still waiting for some alloy round bar so that he can machine a spindle to hold the clutch centres in the lathe.
The plan is to use the centre part of the original Freelander clutch friction disc machined down to fit into a piece of pipe. On the other side we will fit the centre part of a clutch disc from a Fiat 126 which is the closest I could find to a match for the motor splines.
This is a rough (very) sketch showing measurements of the motor and gearbox.

IMG_20201020_182949408.jpg


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I need to double and treble check these measurements but if they are correct and the adapter plate ends up being 25mm then the coupler will be 90mm long.
This design means there will be no clutch in the car so any gear changing will need to be done carefully. It's not ideal but is the simplest way of avoiding huge expense and complication.
 
The plan is sound Ali.

In theory, you shouldn't need the clutch, like you do with an IC engine. Obviously pulling away with an electric motor isn't difficult, as it starts from rest, rather than idling like an ICE.

Also because the motor rotor has much less mass compared to the rotating mass of an ICE crankshaft/flywheel. This should allow the box synchro rings a good chance of synchronising the rotational differences without a clutch. You should just need to back off the throttle while changing gear, which should allow a smooth change up the box. There shouldn't be any need to change down as you slow down, as the motor can come to a complete stop, which again an ICE can't do. In most situations though, I suspect you could just select a single gear (3rd is a similar ratio to the Leaf's reduction drive), which should suit normal driving.
 
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Nodge68 said:
The plan is sound Ali.

In theory, you shouldn't need the clutch, like you do with an IC engine. Obviously pulling away with an electric motor isn't difficult, as it starts from rest, rather than idling like an ICE.

Also because the motor rotor has much less mass compared to the rotating mass of an ICE crankshaft/flywheel. This should allow the box synchro rings a good chance of synchronising the rotational differences without a clutch. You should just need to back off the throttle while changing gear, which should allow a smooth change up the box. There shouldn't be any need to change down as you slow down, as the motor can come to a complete stop, which again an ICE can't do. In most situations though, I suspect you could just select a single gear (3rd is a similar ratio to the Leaf's reduction drive), which should suit normal driving.
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From what I've read and seen most normal driving can be done in a single gear and change up for motorway driving.
It means though that regen is an issue as it is supposed to kick in when you take your foot off the throttle. I believe some folk add a button to their gearstick to prevent regen when changing while others have regen kicking in when the brake light is on.
I'm a loooong way from having to worry about that. :eek:
 
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