Freelander 1 Freelander 1 Major Electrical Problems : Urgent help needed Please

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Thanks for the replies.

Looking at the RAVE documentation, the purple wire connect to multiple areas such as:

SWITCH-ROOF ON (S248)
HEADER 0285 (K109)
INSTRUMENT PACK (J100)
RELAY-ILLUMINATION (FUSE 14)
LAMP-LOAD SPACE (B140)
(DIMMER) (NO DIMMER) (AUTO ILLUM)
LAMP-INTERIOR-FRONT (B100)
LAMP-INTERIOR-REAR (B104)
MIRROR-VANITY-LH (B153)
DIAGNOSTIC SOCKET (V100)
SWITCHHORN-LH (S341)
(FUSE 9)
COIL-TRANSPONDER (D219)
CD AUTO CHANGER (F102)

There's probably more I've missed...

If anyone is able to let me know what a multi meter reading is from this wire to ground with the interior light switch on and off
And then to the battery positive terminal it might help me and if they get continuity to ground too.
The wire can be located by popping out the front interior courtesy lamp and its the middle cable in the 3 pin plug.

My Battery is good, I have even swapped it out with one from my van and a spare.

I should also Add my diag socket does not receive any power until I connect the purple wire - I've got a Chinese clone reader but it doesn't talk to the CCU - just engine management stuff where there are no related faults.
 
Shadows said:
Thanks for the replies.

Looking at the RAVE documentation, the purple wire connect to multiple areas such as:

SWITCH-ROOF ON (S248)
HEADER 0285 (K109)
INSTRUMENT PACK (J100)
RELAY-ILLUMINATION (FUSE 14)
LAMP-LOAD SPACE (B140)
(DIMMER) (NO DIMMER) (AUTO ILLUM)
LAMP-INTERIOR-FRONT (B100)
LAMP-INTERIOR-REAR (B104)
MIRROR-VANITY-LH (B153)
DIAGNOSTIC SOCKET (V100)
SWITCHHORN-LH (S341)
(FUSE 9)
COIL-TRANSPONDER (D219)
CD AUTO CHANGER (F102)

There's probably more I've missed...

If anyone is able to let me know what a multi meter reading is from this wire to ground with the interior light switch on and off
And then to the battery positive terminal it might help me and if they get continuity to ground too.
The wire can be located by popping out the front interior courtesy lamp and its the middle cable in the 3 pin plug.

My Battery is good, I have even swapped it out with one from my van and a spare.

I should also Add my diag socket does not receive any power until I connect the purple wire - I've got a Chinese clone reader but it doesn't talk to the CCU - just engine management stuff where there are no related faults.
Click to expand...
The ODB socket takes power from fuse F14 in the fuse box which is fed from Fusible Link 4 under the bonnet and from there the battery.

FL4 just powers the fusebox, nothing else, is there any power in the fuse box? If not FL4 is your culprit.
 
Looks like the purple wires go to fuse F14 to.

I'd waterboard F14 till it starts working.

Although it must be if stuff works when you power it.

So it must be (or possibly not!) FL4 that is caput. Or the wiring from it.

That, boys and girls, is why you should never practice waterboarding.
 
There is power getting to the Fusebox under the dash and I'm sure I've tested engine bay fuse F4 (80A) that links to Electric windows, fuse box/relay plate-fascia, heated rear window, multifunction control module for continuity but that was in circuit. I will remove it encase there is a short etc giving a false positive.

I'm also waiting for some contact cleaner to arrive and will go to town on all connections encase there is any hidden corrosion / crust that I cant see.
 
Look for voltage across the fuse link before you move it.

Switch some stuff on and any voltage measured shows some high resistance somewhere in link or connections.
 
I've been able to do some further testing and with the ignition on the below fuses show these voltages.
(I just tested these fuses with the time and light available. Ill be doing the every one soon.)

33-0V (Window – front LH)
34-0V (Window – front RH)
30-0v (Rear windshield wiper)
15-1.47v (Central door locking)
14-0.11v (Interior lights, clock, electric mirrors, diagnostic socket)
13-0.01v (Electric accessories socket)
10-12.11V (Cigar lighter) The only one that works!

If I connect the Purple wire (P,0.75D/ P,0.5D) direct to 12V from the battery these fuses read then 12V.
I'm currently using the purple wire that would go to a CD multi changer under the drivers seat

It looks like these fuses are fed from a Brown and White wire from the engine fuse box. There look to be two Brown and white and one White and brown wire. I can trace one of the brown and white wires to the fuse box and there is continuity but struggling to find where the thicker of these wires goes. I've attached a picture and circled the one. I think it runs through the bulkhead and disappears off behind the blower somewhere?
 

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Shadows said:
I've been able to do some further testing and with the ignition on the below fuses show these voltages.
(I just tested these fuses with the time and light available. Ill be doing the every one soon.)

33-0V (Window – front LH)
34-0V (Window – front RH)
30-0v (Rear windshield wiper)
15-1.47v (Central door locking)
14-0.11v (Interior lights, clock, electric mirrors, diagnostic socket)
13-0.01v (Electric accessories socket)
10-12.11V (Cigar lighter) The only one that works!

If I connect the Purple wire (P,0.75D/ P,0.5D) direct to 12V from the battery these fuses read then 12V.
I'm currently using the purple wire that would go to a CD multi changer under the drivers seat

It looks like these fuses are fed from a Brown and White wire from the engine fuse box. There look to be two Brown and white and one White and brown wire. I can trace one of the brown and white wires to the fuse box and there is continuity but struggling to find where the thicker of these wires goes. I've attached a picture and circled the one. I think it runs through the bulkhead and disappears off behind the blower somewhere?
Click to expand...
Fuse F10 takes a feed directly from the ignition switch.

All the others take a feed from FL4 circled in red in the wiring diagram...

1729146021227.png


Presumaby you had the ignition on or just recently turned off when you powered with a direct feed from the battery, as F33 & F34 would not otherwise have got power as the 'Relay Window Lift' would not have been energised.

Your problem must be somewhere between the engine bay fuse box connector C0574-2 and the passenger compartment fuse box connector C0587-1 - or the connectors themselves, or the small run from C0587-1 to where it splits (as both up and down in this graphic do not work) (but you've changed the fuse box, so probably not this), or from FL4 to C0574-2 if you have proven power at FL4.
 
Shadows said:
I've been able to do some further testing and with the ignition on the below fuses show these voltages.
(I just tested these fuses with the time and light available. Ill be doing the every one soon.)

33-0V (Window – front LH)
34-0V (Window – front RH)
30-0v (Rear windshield wiper)
15-1.47v (Central door locking)
14-0.11v (Interior lights, clock, electric mirrors, diagnostic socket)
13-0.01v (Electric accessories socket)
10-12.11V (Cigar lighter) The only one that works!

If I connect the Purple wire (P,0.75D/ P,0.5D) direct to 12V from the battery these fuses read then 12V.
I'm currently using the purple wire that would go to a CD multi changer under the drivers seat

It looks like these fuses are fed from a Brown and White wire from the engine fuse box. There look to be two Brown and white and one White and brown wire. I can trace one of the brown and white wires to the fuse box and there is continuity but struggling to find where the thicker of these wires goes. I've attached a picture and circled the one. I think it runs through the bulkhead and disappears off behind the blower somewhere?
Click to expand...
From Rave...

1729147147905.png


Do you think your circled wire is C0577?

Rave says C0577-1 goes to Glow Plugs from FL6. Its spec if NW,8.2D,640 so is something and white and is a thick 8,2mm core.
 
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