Freelander 1 Freelander 1 Major Electrical Problems : Urgent help needed Please

Ross Tait said:

Unfortunately it doesn’t have that info at all unless you an point it out to me. The circuit diagrams for the ccu show the inputs and outputs of other circuits but do not show where the module itself gets power from or where it earths to. There are 3 pages for it in the manual an no diagram shows that info. I’ve spent an hour at it today already.

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Does this indicate that it gets power from fuse 10 in the engine compartment box and connecting to C0428-16 on the CCU? ... (from 2001MY diagrams)

Just read the CCU section of the 2001MY Rave - as you say, doesn't say much!

GrumpyGel said:

Does this indicate that it gets power from fuse 10 in the engine compartment box and connecting to C0428-16 on the CCU? ... (from 2001MY diagrams)

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Ideal thanks! These manuals are often upside down and hard to navigate until you get used to them. Logically I’d expect to get the full ccu wiring diagram info in the ccu wiring section, but I’m not too surprised the some of the ccu info is in the engine bay fuse comparent section lol. Ok so that sorts out the power supply plug and pin number, now I’ll go back to the manual to find which pin is earth as that’s not mentioned in the engine compartment fuse box info.
Reminds me of the mot manual, it’s back to front too.

Ross Tait said:

Ideal thanks! These manuals are often upside down and hard to navigate until you get used to them. Logically I’d expect to get the full ccu wiring diagram info in the ccu wiring section, but I’m not too surprised the some of the ccu info is in the engine bay fuse comparent section lol. Ok so that sorts out the power supply plug and pin number, now I’ll go back to the manual to find which pin is earth as that’s not mentioned in the engine compartment fuse box info.
Reminds me of the mot manual, it’s back to front too.

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I went over the earthing points a few times and couldn't see the CCU. Wondering if it earths through the fuse box connector.

GrumpyGel said:

I went over the earthing points a few times and couldn't see the CCU. Wondering if it earths through the fuse box connector.

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Yeah snap, same here, ant see it in any area of the manual. As I said these manuals often seem like they were organised by apes lol.

But yeah I do wonder if it’s earth maybe just doubles up onto another earth header. The only thing I think I saw was k108 or k109 and I’m sure 109 is basically body/chassis so there’s a possibility observing the module may reveal a wee bolt or something near by it to ground it. Although that said I’m not even sure exactly where this module is in the car. If it’s under dash then there’s usually a load of em. Could maybe even try removing earths one at a time till that module goes to sleep? Method of deduction.

Sorry for resurrecting, but I got identical problems. The topic just stopped getting replies, what happened OP?
Did you solve the issues? Was it the CCU?

Can the CCU just be replaced with some other scrapped working one (or new), and does the car need some extra programming? I assume the fob does need to be paired to it since the module also controls the remote unlocking/locking, could be wrong though.

Hi guys, same issue here in 2024…I’ve tried swapping out the CCU for a fresh unit and removed the fuse box for a thorough inspection - both to no avail. Currently pulling apart the dash in search of earth points. Did you solve eventually OP??
Any other input much appreciated…
Cheers, R

Not being able to access the back door is the most annoying element of the situation!

Sorry for not thanking everyone for their input back in the day, that was very wrong of me as I was very grateful for the input.

Yes the issue was solved, took it to a local garage who said it could be a break in circuit in the fuse board. At the time a replacement fuse board was a cheaper option if it worked, than a CPU and at the end of the day if it didn't work I would have a new fuse board at least..
To my relief the new fuse board fixed all the problems.
Still have the TD4 but are suffering more issues with individual door buttons not working, and key fob and window winders........... She is now 22 years old but only has 140k on the clock so only just run in but it may be time to move it on?
Nobody seems to want to give me a price to repair all the issues?
I would like to keep it if the cost was reasonable and cheaper than a new car.

Individual door locking failure is nearly always the door lock mechanism itself. Also window winders is usually a cable failure or a broken pulley in the mechanism.

Both require door trim removal and by buying new locks and window mechanisms you could go around each door in turn. Mechanism about £50 and window mechanism about £30. Even if you do them all it's a cheap car !!

andyfreelandy said:

Individual door locking failure is nearly always the door lock mechanism itself. Also window winders is usually a cable failure or a broken pulley in the mechanism.

Both require door trim removal and by buying new locks and window mechanisms you could go around each door in turn. Mechanism about £50 and window mechanism about £30. Even if you do them all it's a cheap car !!

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Thanks for the reply Andy, it's my time ability and weather that's the problem hence trying to get a price for someone to do it.
May be I'll try when the weather gets better only no where to work out the rain.
How do you find out what parts to order, and where from?
Problem is car is used every day so I can't afford not to be able to finish once started.
FNS window button and OSR don't work, also FNS window is fixed in up position, as mechanism won't raise window..All probably easy to fix for someone in the know with a little time and somewhere to work in the dry. Probably expensive though at £60 - £80 per hour, or even more, which is why I can't get a price. Drivers door lock and key are also showing signs of ware and tare, well the car is an original 51 plate. Freelander 1.

Is it possible to get a new replacement driver's door lock tumbler and key, or does that entail replacing all the electronic bits like ignition and associated programming that goes along with a new fob and locks?
Happy to still use key like we are if could get a new key and tumbler fitted cheaply.
The more I think about it, is it still a viable option to repair?

Philbee said:

Sorry for not thanking everyone for their input back in the day, that was very wrong of me as I was very grateful for the input.

Yes the issue was solved, took it to a local garage who said it could be a break in circuit in the fuse board. At the time a replacement fuse board was a cheaper option if it worked, than a CPU and at the end of the day if it didn't work I would have a new fuse board at least..
To my relief the new fuse board fixed all the problems.
Still have the TD4 but are suffering more issues with individual door buttons not working, and key fob and window winders........... She is now 22 years old but only has 140k on the clock so only just run in but it may be time to move it on?
Nobody seems to want to give me a price to repair all the issues?
I would like to keep it if the cost was reasonable and cheaper than a new car.

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Thanks for returning to this thread Phillip. Glad you got that resolved in the end…maybe time for me to replace the fuse board - can I ask, was that the one under the steering wheel or in the engine bay that you replaced? I’ve had a good poke around both but I’m no auto-electrician!

My passenger window is also inoperable - busy cable. Cheap enough to replace as Andy says but looks like a faff! Still, holding out I’ll have a reliable vehicle once all the kinks are ironed out…

Philbee said:

Thanks for the reply Andy, it's my time ability and weather that's the problem hence trying to get a price for someone to do it.
May be I'll try when the weather gets better only no where to work out the rain.
How do you find out what parts to order, and where from?
Problem is car is used every day so I can't afford not to be able to finish once started.
FNS window button and OSR don't work, also FNS window is fixed in up position, as mechanism won't raise window..All probably easy to fix for someone in the know with a little time and somewhere to work in the dry. Probably expensive though at £60 - £80 per hour, or even more, which is why I can't get a price. Drivers door lock and key are also showing signs of ware and tare, well the car is an original 51 plate. Freelander 1.

Is it possible to get a new replacement driver's door lock tumbler and key, or does that entail replacing all the electronic bits like ignition and associated programming that goes along with a new fob and locks?
Happy to still use key like we are if could get a new key and tumbler fitted cheaply.
The more I think about it, is it still a viable option to repair?

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Forgot to mention, I'm in my mid 70's and not that mechanically minded

rqd37 said:

Hi guys, same issue here in 2024…I’ve tried swapping out the CCU for a fresh unit and removed the fuse box for a thorough inspection - both to no avail. Currently pulling apart the dash in search of earth points. Did you solve eventually OP??
Any other input much appreciated…
Cheers, R

Not being able to access the back door is the most annoying element of the situation!

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If I remember rightly or wrongly, the feed to the back door has some link with the interior light working but I might be wrong. I seem to remember having that trouble when fitting a rear window mechanism years ago.

Philbee said:

If I remember rightly or wrongly, the feed to the back door has some link with the interior light working but I might be wrong. I seem to remember having that trouble when fitting a rear window mechanism years ago.

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The interior lights are triggered by a switch in the door lock assembly. If the door lock isn't plugged in for instance, then it won't lock when it should, and the interior light won't come on when the door is opened.

rqd37 said:

Thanks for returning to this thread Phillip. Glad you got that resolved in the end…maybe time for me to replace the fuse board - can I ask, was that the one under the steering wheel or in the engine bay that you replaced? I’ve had a good poke around both but I’m no auto-electrician!

My passenger window is also inoperable - busy cable. Cheap enough to replace as Andy says but looks like a faff! Still, holding out I’ll have a reliable vehicle once all the kinks are ironed out…

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Hi rqd37

Yes the fuse board they replaced was the one under the steering wheel, was a bit of a gamble for me but it did work out ok.
Might be a good idea to get someone to check the upward side of the circuits to see if all are ok and passing power on, before forking out some dosh. Mine looked ok from outside, but a bit oxidised inside once the old one was removed and replaced you could see it.

Philbee said:

Hi rqd37

Yes the fuse board they replaced was the one under the steering wheel, was a bit of a gamble for me but it did work out ok.
Might be a good idea to get someone to check the upward side of the circuits to see if all are ok and passing power on, before forking out some dosh. Mine looked ok from outside, but a bit oxidised inside once the old one was removed and replaced you could see it.

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I’ve ordered a second hand one for about £25 - a worthwhile gamble I think! But also hopefully getting a second opinion from an auto electrician friend…I’ve had the box out already, pulled every fuse and opened it up. Looked fine to the untrained eye! One connection on the back had some corrosion - surely no enough to scupper so many functions though??

Fingers crossed it will all be resolved this week…

Philbee said:

Hi rqd37

Yes the fuse board they replaced was the one under the steering wheel, was a bit of a gamble for me but it did work out ok.
Might be a good idea to get someone to check the upward side of the circuits to see if all are ok and passing power on, before forking out some dosh. Mine looked ok from outside, but a bit oxidised inside once the old one was removed and replaced you could see it.

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So the fuse box replacement has fixed everything apart from the electric front windows…big relief to have the back door functional again! Thanks for the support =]

Hi guys,

Apologies for reviving this old thread once more, but thought it might be best to continue this for anyone whose found it on Google (like me) gone through all the troubleshooting suggested here but still has issues. For Reference I have a 2003 5 door Td4 Freelander 1 (Pre facelift)

My Faults are:

All Windows not working (Window regulators etc are all ok)

Radio power (I have an aftermarket radio but still have same issues with original fitted too)

Central locking not working (all doors)

Rear window not working / electric boot switch – Just Beeps from the CCU when tailgate window button is pushed – Will not work with key turned in lock either.

Rear wiper / washer – non-functional

Interior lights - Not working at all

Clock digits / display

Delayed start when turning and holding keys in ignition - there is a pause of around 5 seconds before the starter kicks in (sometimes just turns over without starting)

Items replaced / Trouble shooting so far…

Disconnecting the battery and leaving it overnight.

I have replaced the CCU Module with matching part numbers and have a matching fob but have exact same issues. (I have emailed the seller to confirm if the replacement was tested – awaiting to hear back)

I have replaced the dash board Fusebox (checking all connectors) with exact match to old part numbers - Only difference is I now get the trailer light coming on with Hazards / indicators - No tow bar is fitted.

I have checked all internal dash fuses and engine bay fuses, paying specific attention to anything CCU related (doing my best to follow the RAVE diagrams - I am no auto electrician! )

I have removed the engine fuse box checked all contacts

My entire dashboard is currently stripped out to check all connections for corrosion / shorts / damaged wires etc – haven’t found anything so far. Checked all connections in the boot too. I have checked all Earth points I can locate so far.

It is a leaky old car with damp issues however the fuse box / CCU area along with all connections appear ok.

The only way I can get the systems controlled by the CCU to function as normal is to take a live feed direct from the battery and patch it to the Purple wire (P,0.75D/ P,0.5D) at any part of the circuit (Interior light, back of radio, CD multi changer socket under the seat etc) With this bodge in place the car / systems seam to function as normal but with some battery drain if left for a while.

The fault first occurred during rain when attempting to put the windows down then up to clear some misting. When putting the windows back up that's when things stopped working.

Please help! Is there something obvious I’m missing?

What is the purpose of the purple wire?

From what you say, one end connects to the CCU, where does the other end go?

Daft question time… these can be sods for messing around when your battery is duff.
Starting point ; Is your battery good (as in new(ish), not just ‘charged’)?