Freelander 1.8 K series hgf - more data

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Roberto FL said:
I searched some and find several problems in the starter and engine - same used in volvos. The engine problems however appear to happen only in LR... Another enginered crap?
back to toyota...
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The web only lists faults with cars. So you have to be careful of the impression you take away with you. Some would say my FL1 v6 engine is crap. It's started first time everytime for many years. It's difficult to get a percentage failure rate for cars when only seeing fault info. I don't think the i6 is aimed at markets which favour diesels. Probably USA and other countries which their own oil resources.
 
Hippo said:
The web only lists faults with cars. So you have to be careful of the impression you take away with you. Some would say my FL1 v6 engine is crap. It's started first time everytime for many years. It's difficult to get a percentage failure rate for cars when only seeing fault info. I don't think the i6 is aimed at markets which favour diesels. Probably USA and other countries which their own oil resources.
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thanx hippo. im doing my research. most people say same thing about kv6; k 18 and generic freelander. Same crap things with no consistent numbers.
If i bear in mind those description, all LR would be a complete disgrace as a vehicle, especially Defenders!!! brazilian video [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NXR_M8T2qC4]Land Rover capotando - Indoor de Mogi - YouTube[/ame]

thats why i bought a freelander.
 
Ok, So my wife picked one up with 179,000K on it. 1.8L and now we live with it. I am in the tropics so even at night the engine is never under 25 deg C I wonder if that has anyting to do with the ticks on the clock?

I did just have a Tstat let go. I wish I knew about the other kit as I just bought a factory piece fedex last night!

Has anyone run one without the Tstat in the housing?? Like I said it is never under 20c on a cold night here.
 
Not sure if I'm the first on here to do it but I fitted a Davies Craig Electonic Water Pump (EWP) and controller to my 1.8 yesterday. I haven't gone for a spin with it yet but during stationary tests it performed excellently. In fact the pump is a bit of a monster, if you are just idling the temperature drops to 70 degrees - the pump simply can't go any slower to raise the temperature or you'd get hot spots. At normal revs and high revs it's totally amazing from what we observed yesterday. So far we haven't wired up the fans to the controller yet. Freelanders with Air Con are a little tricky to figure out where to wire it. We (that is me and Diesel Do who helped fit it) are probably going to hijack one of the fans and isolate it from the engine management so that it runs entirely off the controller. The other fan will still kick in a 104 deg as per normal operation. Though to be honest, I'm struggling to imagine a situation where the pump was not enough to keep it cool.

I'll report back as it all progresses - but the post shutdown run on feature is awesome! It cools the engine right down in under two mins so you don't get any heat soak whatsoever!

Will.
 
Because the controller has a fan control built into it - the fan kicks in whenever the coolant temp goes 3 deg over the target temp. The normal fans only kick in at 104 deg, which is a little hot! It basically allows the pump and fan to work in unison allowing you to maintain a very stable target tempereature.
 
The pump? No, not if you want any of the benefits like post shutdown run-on or target temperature setting. The controller is a pretty sophisticated bit of kit and makes the normal cooling management systems look daft - which they always were. By installing the pump and controller and hooking up one of the fans to it you have effectively (emphasis on effective) isolated the entire cooling system form the stock management systems so it can do its job properly.
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
ewp trigger wire via 3a 1N54XX diode to pin 85 in Relay R118.
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Sorry mate but that doesn't mean anything to me. But I would really doubt that it's possible to modufy the engine management system to do as good a job with the pump and fan control. Would iot be able to run on after shutdown? Would it be able to vary flow rate according to engine needs? Could you set your target temperature? Could it kick the fan in at a lower temp? Could be wrong, but I trust what I've seen and read about the DC controller.
 
Well no the radiator does that. It does exactly what you said, it just does it better than the mechanical pump as you get variable flow rates that are independent of RPM. Eg at idle on a motorway jam you want a pretty high flow rate and at 70mph the ram air means you need less. So it's dynamic, rather than arbitrary.

Sorry for the size of the image, can't make it any smaller unless someone knows a bit of code that will do that?
 
WLJayne said:
Sorry mate but that doesn't mean anything to me. But I would really doubt that it's possible to modufy the engine management system to do as good a job with the pump and fan control. Would iot be able to run on after shutdown? Would it be able to vary flow rate according to engine needs? Could you set your target temperature? Could it kick the fan in at a lower temp? Could be wrong, but I trust what I've seen and read about the DC controller.
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Yo totally mis understand - take the fan trigger from the EWP and attach it to R118 via a diode to stop back EMF - that will trigger the fans as R118 is the fan relay :eek:.
 
Ah sorry for misunderstanding, now that sounds familar as we coudn't find the actual fan relay as that's where the instructions tell you to stick it. That might mean something to Diesel Do as he was looking for it.

By the way, they describe pretty much everything about the system in this vid http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nrfux_-6RVw
 
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WLJayne said:
Ah sorry for misunderstanding, now that sounds familar as we coudn't find the actual fan relay as that's where the instructions tell you to stick it. That might mean something to Diesel Do as he was looking for it.
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On R118, the relay trigger wire is a Brown/Pink wire - the power wire to the fan is Brown/Red (unless its been wired with Trailer wire :p). You will need a diode if connecting to the N/K wire, or via relay if connecting to the N/R.
 
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