Folding mirror problem

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Update,

I have striped it down again and separated the motor from the bottom plate, the two pins are still intact and no sign of any wear at all. This has got me stumped any ideas anybody. :-(

Cheers

Graham
 
hmmm, i only did this once but i do remember the motor or something being detached from something else and i used two small screws to relocate it

i would at first suggest to check your motors work ok, and then go through each stage of mechanical action until you find the fault

ie connect both motors to car. work? ok?

add the next part, stll works?

add the next part, etc etc. and then at one point you will find out that what you added didnt work.
 
My drivers side mirror has had the lurgy for about a year and I have finally decided to have a go so please update on any progress.
Elsewhere, a landy technician has suggested that micro switches could be shorting (in the unit itself apparently) or gears worn. In your pic the unit looks to be broken (the flanged part at the base)... pardon my ignorance as I haven't removed mine yet but presumably this isn't anything to do with it?

As and when I get the time I'll jump in and have a go too, good luck! :)
 
dazjam said:
My drivers side mirror has had the lurgy for about a year and I have finally decided to have a go so please update on any progress.
Elsewhere, a landy technician has suggested that micro switches could be shorting (in the unit itself apparently) or gears worn. In your pic the unit looks to be broken (the flanged part at the base)... pardon my ignorance as I haven't removed mine yet but presumably this isn't anything to do with it?

As and when I get the time I'll jump in and have a go too, good luck! :)
Click to expand...

Having had mine apart a couple of times now I am of the same opinion as the landy tech. Both my locating pins are intact so no repair there, the bottom base is not broken there is a small gear in there for some reason. I am also thinking perhaps relay switch or solenoid switch even control switch on dash, it's just pin pointing the fault, at over £150 each for new mirrors and the other conponents costing around £30 to £60 each this could prove to be an expensive fix.

When I flick the dash switch to operate the power fold mirrors I can hear a little click from under the centre consul near the gear stick so not sure what's under there but could be a solenoid, will have to investigate further but don't know where this is going to end.
 
Homer_Sexual_by_Wocker.jpg
 
Just a thought, I often find that the electric mirror switch itself is dodgy as **** on FL1 and D2, often taking many determined presses to get proper operation. Sometimes you just get a click...
 
Hmmph, similarly, I have taken my driver side powerfold off and taken it apart, pins fine, put it back on and ... nothing. Balls! Next stop is check the mirror switch/buy a replacement anyway as they're hella cheap... then consider new mirror unit. Argh! Pic of internals (pins numbered) included for anyone interested :)


120827052931346533.jpg

mini_120827052931346533.jpg
 

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dazjam said:
Hmmph, similarly, I have taken my driver side powerfold off and taken it apart, pins fine, put it back on and ... nothing. Balls! Next stop is check the mirror switch/buy a replacement anyway as they're hella cheap... then consider new mirror unit. Argh! Pic of internals (pins numbered) included for anyone interested :)


120827052931346533.jpg

mini_120827052931346533.jpg
Click to expand...

Yep thats the same ones. Let us know how you get on with the switch, it's driving me nuts as well, I would go down the route of using a long self tapper to hold it in place before I bought another set of mirrors.
 
Have taken the plunge and bought a new (2ndhand) mirror unit cos I'm assuming the gears are knackered. While I wait I'm gonna test the power is getting through (the smaller 2 pin connector). What a pain in the ass! Will update when I have tried the new unit.
 
dazjam said:
Have taken the plunge and bought a new (2ndhand) mirror unit cos I'm assuming the gears are knackered. While I wait I'm gonna test the power is getting through (the smaller 2 pin connector). What a pain in the ass! Will update when I have tried the new unit.
Click to expand...

Let us know how you get on.
 
Grayo said:
Let us know how you get on.
Click to expand...
Replacement works like a charm. As I've seen written elsewhere, could have been internal fault or worn gears. Old unit still tilts and heats so will ebay it and get some of the money back at least!

Best of luck :hippie:
 
Taken the plunge myself today and decided to buy the mirrors from a guy on ebay who had two for sale at £79 each plus £8.99 postage. i decided to phone him and ask for a discount for the two, he agreed to £60 each posted, just as I was about to give him my card details one was sold "sods law" so decided to buy two new ones from another guy for £198 posted, god I hope this fixes the problem now. Fingers crossed.
 
Grayo said:
Taken the plunge myself today and decided to buy the mirrors from a guy on ebay who had two for sale at £79 each plus £8.99 postage. i decided to phone him and ask for a discount for the two, he agreed to £60 each posted, just as I was about to give him my card details one was sold "sods law" so decided to buy two new ones from another guy for £198 posted, god I hope this fixes the problem now. Fingers crossed.
Click to expand...

Yikes! Hopefully your existing pair can be "recycled" as non-folding to someone in need on ebay and offset that cost a little. Fingers crossed for ya.
Presumably yours still tilted and heated when connected up? Fuses checked, etc etc? Update success story please! :)
 
Yeeeeeeeeeeessssssssssss, Mirrors arrived in the post this morning half an hour later they were fitted to the freelander and yes they work perfect. So anybody needing new mirrors the guy on ebay sells them at a fraction of the cost of genuine LR ones.
 
Just a short note to say that I repaired broken pins some months ago and they are still holding up fine. I used a 2mm drill, and rather than substituting a 3mm screw for the pin, I drilled 2 holes for each "pin area" with about 6mm separation and fashioned a couple of u-shaped staples from hard copper wire (heavy earth wire from old electric cable) These staples very gently peened over, and finished off with a small amount of epoxy. I was concerned that the narrow area of the cast "shoulder" where the pins locate was too weak to support a self tapper or even a tapped machine screw. There isn't a great deal of clearance between the motor housing and the gear case, so watch out that your replacement pin arrangement doesn't foul anything. I'm delighted to have saved a small fortune on this repair, and I'm fairly sure that this replacement of the original cast pins will be as durable as the original. This is a very fiddly task but well worth the effort - you will need to be a fairly competent bodger to have any chance of getting this to work.
 
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