P38A Fobbed-off 2000 Vogue 4.6

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DanClarke

DanClarke

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Location
Benfleet, Essex
I have BOTH original Remote-Fob keys Marked Key 1 & 2 on their cases and a separate hard key as well.
Only Fob key 2 is recognised by the remote sensor. Key 1 is totally ignored.
The remote fobs both have nice new sets of batteries and they both display the appropriate red LED flashing rates on both initial press and hold (slow then fast flashes). All keys can mechanically open the doors and start the car.
I can't see a way to get the car to acknowledge key 1.
Frightened to mess too much with things because I might end up with no recognised remote fobs if I bumble around.
I thought this model/year automatically re-synched when you put a key in the ignition and it re-learned the fob if it had been dead through battery replacement. Puzzled, I am.
All helpful suggestions will be gratefully received.
 
Simple same thing happened to me only x1 remote is for your car the other is an eBay special and some one fitted the correct blade to it from there non working one to fool you it hade x2 working remotes.
 
Bugger! Is all I can think of to say.
However, I seem to recall that it was Key 1 that I had that worked initially.
Then it went into immobilised mode and I had no EKA so I used the key in the lock and reconnect the battery to get her to come out of immobilised mode. The key I grabbed at this time was key 2. Is it possible that this "alternate procedure" for re-mobilisation has had this effect? (straw-clutching I know).
 
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Try this:

Make sure the RF receiver unit is connected under the rear driver's parcel shelf.
Lock the car using fob #2.
Open the car using fob #2.
Put key #1 in the lock.
Press lock on fob #1 and then turn key 1 to lock position.
Press unlock on fob #1 and then turn key 1 to unlock position.
Press lock on fob #1 and then turn key 1 to lock position.
Press unlock on fob #1 and then turn key 1 to unlock position.
Take key #1 out of the lock.
Try locking using fob #1 to lock it.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Make sure the RF receiver unit is connected under the rear driver's parcel shelf.
Lock the car using fob #2.
Open the car using fob #2.
Put key #1 in the lock.
Press lock on fob #1 and then turn key 1 to lock position.
Press unlock on fob #1 and then turn key 1 to unlock position.
Press lock on fob #1 and then turn key 1 to lock position.
Press unlock on fob #1 and then turn key 1 to unlock position.
Take key #1 out of the lock.
Try locking using fob #1 to lock it.
Click to expand...
Hi Mate,
I have tried this procedure (although with the Aerial on the RF receiver disconnected). Will reconnect it and give it a go.
I am fairly sure the key I first had in my clutches was key 1 (the one that does not work) and it worked perfectly at that time. I really thought they had some sort of sensing coil in the ignition/steering column to read the fobs or some such.
Will give it another try and report back.
Thanks for looking.
Dan.
 
If you had it working then it should work with a key1 and key2 at the same time, unless both keys are key1 or key2 then only one will work, does that make sense?

My local stealer got me a new key but it knocked out my key he didn't order as asked for a key 3 or 4.
 
DanClarke said:
Hi Mate,
I have tried this procedure (although with the Aerial on the RF receiver disconnected). Will reconnect it and give it a go.
I am fairly sure the key I first had in my clutches was key 1 (the one that does not work) and it worked perfectly at that time. I really thought they had some sort of sensing coil in the ignition/steering column to read the fobs or some such.
Will give it another try and report back.
Thanks for looking.
Dan.
Click to expand...

Later cars have the sensing coil. Not early ones. RF receiver needs to get the signal from the lock to sync on older models. If the key was cloned at any stage then they will knock each other out of sync.
 
Success! :D
I tried the procedure that was in @mozz smith 's guide and as was also suggested by @Grrrrrr above, but no joy.
Connected the Nanocom with the ignition off and no key in as suggested by Wammers.
Checked the RF memory which declared it has seen valid key-codes.
Cleared the RF memory.
Wrote all settings successfully.
Now BOTH "Original" keys 1 & 2 are able to remotely lock/unlock the car. Happy Days indeed (easy to please aren't I ;) )
Still having problems in other areas but I will open yet another thread to ask for advice (sorry).
But... my observation is that persevering has saved me the cost of a replacement 2nd Key.
Just need a few more tweaks.
 
DanClarke said:
Success! :D
Connected the Nanocom with the ignition off and no key in as suggested by Wammers.
Checked the RF memory which declared it has seen valid key-codes.
Cleared the RF memory.
Wrote all settings successfully.
Now BOTH "Original" keys 1 & 2 are able to remotely lock/unlock the car. Happy Days indeed (easy to please aren't I ;) )
Click to expand...

Brilliant. Well done. I'll have to remember that one. I wonder if that's what stops my key #4 syncing unless the car has been opened by key #1!
 
kds said:
Only key one available new now from dealers.
Click to expand...

Keep getting mixed messages on this. They used to say key 4. When I went they just asked me which I wanted! Guess they figure the chance of a key 1 surviving this long is remote (see what I did there) and therefore the least likely to cause a clash.

Still got my key 1, although the number has now rubbed off.
 
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All I can say is how relieved I am to have 2 working remote key fobs Grrrrr.
I'v even managed to sort out my window control options now. :)
Just the Alarm set audio notifications and the alarm sounder itself to go.
Tried all the combo's I can think of, it may just be that someone has pulled the connection for the siren.
 
kds said:
Interesting, I was told key one was the only one available now when had to order new one last year, have noticed the new key doesnt seem to have the range of the old key.
Click to expand...

My old key doesn't have the range of the new one. But then I have never changed the battery as I cannot get the sod out. Just waiting for the inevitable before I totally screw it.
 
Grrrrrr said:
My old key doesn't have the range of the new one. But then I have never changed the battery as I cannot get the sod out. Just waiting for the inevitable before I totally screw it.
Click to expand...
I had the same issue on my last car. Eventually the dash came up with the change fob battery message. The coin-slot on the fob was so "Donald-Ducked" it was unusable.
I got a replacement fob battery cover put the fob (protected by a bit of leather) in a vise and used a sharp screwdriver and some gentle taps with a hammer to turn the battery cover. Job done!
Some replacement battery covers are crap-quality plastic, the more expensive one's are worth the extra spend.
NB keep the rubber O-ring from the original (many replacement kits do not provide one) a q-tip wetted with fairy-liquid or other quality detergent rubbed round the mating surfaces of the new lid and the fob makes the closure and future opening a little easier with a coin.
 
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