P38A Fobbed-off 2000 Vogue 4.6

martyuk said:

Hang on a sec.

So you STILL think it is RF waking it up, even when a post up above that you reconnected it for convenience, and then actually sat in it and then observed the P LED and it didn't come back on to show the BECM was being woken back up.

If you had a RF drain problem on a NEW battery, which you have pretty much proven and happy with that it's holding charge, then it still shouldn't struggle to start the next morning unless the BECM is never sleeping (which you've proven it is)

Now you are mentioning door locks jumping whilst driving and occasionally whilst stopped - and even when you were away from the vehicle.
As I said in my last post, bad door latch microswitches are KNOWN to cause parasitic battery drain. One owner who had had was observing 500ma constant drain, even though the BECM was sleeping.

Do you know exactly what the drain is? as far as I can see you've done a lot of testing on the battery, but not actually put a current meter in series with one of the battery terminals to measure the exact drain. I don't believe that a current clamp meter is going to give enough of an accurate readout, at that low current on DC to figure out what's going on. You NEED to put the ammeter inline.

Then you'll see if you have a parasitic battery drain, which is constant when the BECM is asleep, or whether you have a spurious drain as the BECM is woken up (the current dropping to normal sleep current of about 30mA and then bouncing back up to around 1A as the BECM is woken up). This test is easy to repeat with the RF receiver both connected and totally unplugged - it will be pretty obvious then if there is an RF problem causing it.

Before p*ssing about with additional RF units, I'd replace the door latch as a) Chances are it could be causing a constant parasitic drain on the battery, b) jumping locks is a known sign that at least the CDL microswitch is intermittent or faulty and c) it can lead to another whole world of headaches if you find you need to use the door lock at some point for EKA or the likes, and then find out your microswitch is dead, or not reliably triggering.

I would do the current draw tests with a multimeter inline to determine what you ACTUAL current draw is, and look at replacing the door latch before mucking about with addition RF stuff, as I'm almost certain the problem will still be there afterwards.

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DanClarke said:

Hi @martyuk ,Will get a new OSF door latch and fit it.

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Grrrrrr said:

Get a refurbed one off Marty. His microswitches are better than the originals.

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DanClarke said:

Although I posted else where in "what have you done to your Range rover today" already, I thought I would update this thread.
This week (Tuesday) i got round to fitting the Jog-unit that kills the RF-Receiver until you re-enable it.
My battery tell-tale traffic-light unit has remained in "green" status since then. Prior to this modification the battery would indicate the need for a recharge within 15 .. 18 hours.
Case proven, the jog unit on 315Mhz is not getting triggered whereas the Rangie's RF receiver was forever waking up.
Every time I go check it, and see its STILL PERFECT......this BIG, STUPID, grin appears on my face (childish, I know).
Screw you and your £300+ replacement RF receiver unit Land Rover.

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