Freelander 2 (LR2) FL2 Rear Diff Seizure.

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Hi John.
Please take a few photos if you have time during removal and repairing, i am following this thread with great interest, good luck Arctic.
As requested. Here's some pictures of the diff coming out.
The instructions suggest this rear exhaust hanger is removed, but the fact that the bolts are just rusted blobs, made that more of a challenge, than simply pulling the hangers off the hooks
20210109_122252.jpg
20210109_123922(0).jpg

Once the hangers are removed, the exhaust was lowered and supported with blocks of wood.
20210109_124751.jpg

The propshaft flange bolts are E10 torx, and weren't very tight. The upper bolts are harder to get at without turning the propshaft, but aren't that difficult to undo. There are 3 flat washers, each bridging between two bolts.
Note that I crudely marked the flange, so I could fit it back in the same place.
20210109_130111.jpg

This shot shows the front mount, which straddles between two 18mm headed bolts each side of the subframe. The front of the diff is secured to the mount, with 4 10mm headed bolts, one of which was pretty chewed up.:confused:
Also you'll notice that everything under here is coated in a film of oil. :(
20210109_131610.jpg

The LHS bolt is removed completely, the RHS bolt is released, just enough so the front mount can now be swung down.
The diff will now hang down, which allows the propshaft flange to be removed. Mine took a couple of taps with a cold chisel and hammer for it to pop off.
20210109_133721.jpg

After I got the propshaft flange off, I found a hole in the Haldex flange, were the propshaft can be tapped off from behind.
The electrical connector needs removing too, for which I used a small screw driver in the hole, to release the catch.
20210109_134330.jpg

At this point, I supported the front with wooden blocks under the Haldex, and placed a trolley jack under the lowest part at the rear of the diff.
The rear diff mounts are next, which are accessed from the rear, just above the lowered exhaust box.
20210109_141612.jpg

The jack was lowered a few inches, so I could get to the diff breathers, there are two, which simply pulled off.
20210109_151436.jpg

Next I put some straps around the driveshafts and over the subframe, so to take the weight, once the shafts were pulled from the diff. The RHS took almost no effort to remove, simply popping out with a just a twist from a large screwdriver.
The LHS needed the lower suspension links to be removed from the hub carrier. The LHS driveshaft really didn't want to come out, requiring many hits with my cold chisel and a club hammer to free it.
At this point, I started to get a clue as to the potential cause of the diff seizure. I'd put an oil drain pan under the diff before pulling the driveshafts, although it wasn't needed, as no oil came out.:eek:
20210109_151446.jpg

Lower suspension links unbolted, and blocked out to allow space for the driveshafts to be pulled.
20210109_155106.jpg

At this point, the diff can be lowered. I used the jack as a trolley, and withdraw the diff from under the LH rear wheel.

20210109_155058.jpg

It's out, and quite obviously had no oil in it, which would explain the catastrophic failure.
20210109_155300.jpg

I put plastic bags over the driveshaft joints for protection, while the diff is out.
20210109_162147.jpg

The whole assembly stood in the oil drainer, as it was dripping a tiny amount of oil from the breathers, but it looks like there isn't actually much more than a few drops of oil in it.:(
20210109_164028.jpg
 
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Dont normally stick me head in the freelander section but find this interesting to read/follow:).

Think LR recommended the prop torx bolts “ 1 time use”. They did for our 322. But I didn’t cos didn’t find that till it was too late, but have checked a couple of times and they are fine:) another LR cover bottom me thinks;)

Will be interesting to see the inside:)

J
 
Glad you managed to get it out!

Does the pinion seem seized?
Hopefully all will pull out and the case can be reused.
 
Well done @Nodge68!

@marjon - RE: one time use bolts - having had my ECITB Mechanical Joint Integrity tickets, including hydraulic tensioning, I can tell you that it's about a thousand to one against these bolts having been "yielded" beyond their elastic window and into their plastic deformation, so I'm 99.999995% certain it will be fine to reuse them, and for bolt and braces (bad joke) loctite them during assembly. The only thing I'd say that doesn't hold true for is cylinder head bolts, as those are typically scrawny relative to the torque that goes into them so there is a good chance they have yielded and as such cannot be reused.
 
Well done @Nodge68!

@marjon - RE: one time use bolts - having had my ECITB Mechanical Joint Integrity tickets, including hydraulic tensioning, I can tell you that it's about a thousand to one against these bolts having been "yielded" beyond their elastic window and into their plastic deformation, so I'm 99.999995% certain it will be fine to reuse them, and for bolt and braces (bad joke) loctite them during assembly. The only thing I'd say that doesn't hold true for is cylinder head bolts, as those are typically scrawny relative to the torque that goes into them so there is a good chance they have yielded and as such cannot be reused.

WOW thanks I feel safe with mine now:).

That’s what I thought ;).

I am obviously under qualified for this section:eek::D.

I was just pointing out what LR recommend. I didn’t, and am actually confident they are fine to reuse:). Sorry for a just in case point;)
J
 
WOW thanks I feel safe with mine now:).

That’s what I thought ;).

I am obviously under qualified for this section:eek::D.

I was just pointing out what LR recommend. I didn’t, and am actually confident they are fine to reuse:). Sorry for a just in case point;)
J
Nothing to be sorry for mate, I'm just glad I was able to use some of my professional knowledge to put you at ease :)
 
As requested. Here's some pictures of the diff coming out.
The instructions suggest this rear exhaust hanger is removed, but the fact that the bolts are just rusted blobs, made that more of a challenge, than simply pulling the hangers off the hooks
View attachment 227302 View attachment 227303
Once the hangers are removed, the exhaust was lowered and supported with blocks of wood.View attachment 227304
The propshaft flange bolts are E10 torx, and weren't very tight. The upper bolts are harder to get at without turning the propshaft, but aren't that difficult to undo. There are 3 flat washers, each bridging between two bolts.
Note that I crudely marked the flange, so I could fit it back in the same place.
View attachment 227305
This shot shows the front mount, which straddles between two 18mm headed bolts each side of the subframe. The front of the diff is secured to the mount, with 4 10mm headed bolts, one of which was pretty chewed up.:confused:
Also you'll notice that everything under here is coated in a film of oil. :(View attachment 227306
The LHS bolt is removed completely, the RHS bolt is released, just enough so the front mount can now be swung down.
The diff will now hang down, which allows the propshaft flange to be removed. Mine took a couple of taps with a cold chisel and hammer for it to pop off. View attachment 227307
After I got the propshaft flange off, I found a hole in the Haldex flange, were the propshaft can be tapped off from behind.
The electrical connector needs removing too, for which I used a small screw driver in the hole, to release the catch. View attachment 227308
At this point, I supported the front with wooden blocks under the Haldex, and placed a trolley jack under the lowest part at the rear of the diff.
The rear diff mounts are next, which are accessed from the rear, just above the lowered exhaust box.View attachment 227309
The jack was lowered a few inches, so I could get to the diff breathers, there are two, which simply pulled off.View attachment 227311
Next I put some straps around the driveshafts and over the subframe, so to take the weight, once the shafts were pulled from the diff. The RHS took almost no effort to remove, simply popping out with a just a twist from a large screwdriver.
The LHS needed the lower suspension links to be removed from the hub carrier. The LHS driveshaft really didn't want to come out, requiring many hits with my cold chisel and a club hammer to free it.
At this point, I started to get a clue as to the potential cause of the diff seizure. I'd put an oil drain pan under the diff before pulling the driveshafts, although it wasn't needed, as no oil came out.:eek:View attachment 227312
Lower suspension links unbolted, and blocked out to allow space for the driveshafts to be pulled. View attachment 227313
At this point, the diff can be lowered. I used the jack as a trolley, and withdraw the diff from under the LH rear wheel.

View attachment 227314
It's out, and quite obviously had no oil in it, which would explain the catastrophic failure.
View attachment 227315
I put plastic bags over the driveshaft joints for protection, while the diff is out.
View attachment 227316
The whole assembly stood in the oil drainer, as it was dripping a tiny amount of oil from the breathers, but it looks like there isn't actually much more than a few drops of oil in it.:(
View attachment 227317
Have you been able to figure out why the oil decided to evacuate yet?
 
Hi. Good job.

It seems that you have a 4th generation haldex pump. Is it correct generation for your model or 3th generation haldex?
 
Hi John.
Thank you for the photos, i wonder if the oil as come out of the breather pipe? or someone as tried to do an oil change and not added enough oil,
 
Nothing to be sorry for mate, I'm just glad I was able to use some of my professional knowledge to put you at ease :)
I agree. I seriously doubt the bolts were tightened to the plastic point.
I'm going to reuse them, with a dab of threadlock, as I suspect they are patch bolts. LR say to replace patch bolts, but threadlock will do.
Have you been able to figure out why the oil decided to evacuate yet?
Not really, although the driveshaft seals appear worn and one is distorted, so the oil could have simply dripped out over time.
This diff has been out before, as the heat shield next to the front mount bolts is bent out of shape.
At this point looking at the oil stains and the breather pipes it looks like it blew out the remaining oil as a cloud of mist
The breather pipes seem to disappear inside the body, so a don't think the oil was lost there, although I'd need to pull the boot side panel off to check.
Hi. Good job.

It seems that you have a 4th generation haldex pump. Is it correct generation for your model or 3th generation haldex?
Mine was registered in August 2008, but is a 2009 MY as the chassis No begins 9H, which means it should have the Gen 4, which it does.
Thank you for the photos, i wonder if the oil as come out of the breather pipe?
I think the oil came out the shaft seals, possibly.

or someone as tried to do an oil change and not added enough oil,
This is also a distinct possibility, looking at the work quality of other things I've seen on this vehicle. :(
 
I agree. I seriously doubt the bolts were tightened to the plastic point.
I'm going to reuse them, with a dab of threadlock, as I suspect they are patch bolts. LR say to replace patch bolts, but threadlock will do.

Not really, although the driveshaft seals appear worn and one is distorted, so the oil could have simply dripped out over time.
This diff has been out before, as the heat shield next to the front mount bolts is bent out of shape.

The breather pipes seem to disappear inside the body, so a don't think the oil was lost there, although I'd need to pull the boot side panel off to check.

Mine was registered in August 2008, but is a 2009 MY as the chassis No begins 9H, which means it should have the Gen 4, which it does.

I think the oil came out the shaft seals, possibly.


This is also a distinct possibility, looking at the work quality of other things I've seen on this vehicle. :(
Mabe coco the clown struck again
 
Having that Gen 4 Haldex makes routine servicing much easier - you can just "kiss" the edge of the prop boss with a grinder and then slip the haldex out without removing the prop
 
Having that Gen 4 Haldex makes routine servicing much easier - you can just "kiss" the edge of the prop boss with a grinder and then slip the haldex out without removing the prop
Yes, I had a Gen 3 and changed the pump for one from Volvo. Shorter than the LR and could get in and out without releasing the cardan.
 
Right, I got a small amount of time to strip the diff this afternoon, unfortunately I had to clear a blocked drain, again for the second time in a many weeks. :(

So the diff isn't good, actually it's scrap, but here's some photos of the innards. I think the pictures say it all really.
20210110_144506.jpg
20210110_144304.jpg
20210110_145054.jpg
20210110_144314.jpg
20210110_144021.jpg

Thankfully the Haldex had oil in it, so should be salvageable.
 
That's a bummer mate.
It sure is. Trust me to buy a car that has been serviced by a complete moron. :mad:
Do you think Bells would allow it against a refurbed one?
No, as the exchange needs to be repairable. :(
I'm assuming used diffs are like hens teeth.
Not difficult to get, although not exactly cheap, and completely unknown, so even a second hand one could need a rebuild. :(:(

But while I'm looking for a replacement, I'll some time to work on your coupler. ;)
 
Right, I got a small amount of time to strip the diff this afternoon, unfortunately I had to clear a blocked drain, again for the second time in a many weeks. :(

So the diff isn't good, actually it's scrap, but here's some photos of the innards. I think the pictures say it all really.
View attachment 227417 View attachment 227418 View attachment 227419 View attachment 227420 View attachment 227421
Thankfully the Haldex had oil in it, so should be salvageable.
Gutted for you, maybe that misfire/running problem was a bit of a blessing in disguise as you probably would have used it a bit more/harder & that diff. might have failed at a higher speed (I don't want to think about that). Hope you can find a good one on the cheap I'm sure they'll be a few on here keeping an eye out for you. All the best.
 
Right, I got a small amount of time to strip the diff this afternoon, unfortunately I had to clear a blocked drain, again for the second time in a many weeks. :(

So the diff isn't good, actually it's scrap, but here's some photos of the innards. I think the pictures say it all really.
View attachment 227417 View attachment 227418 View attachment 227419 View attachment 227420 View attachment 227421
Thankfully the Haldex had oil in it, so should be salvageable.

Ouch, I bet that was noisy !
 
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