Bounty
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Freelander 1 fishtank in boot
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i had a similar problem for me the water was getting in past the rubber seal on the hinge side of the boot about half way up.
the water was running down the trim into the well where the bolts attach the door arm to the car and then into the boot.
from your picture i can see alot of rust that side so it might be the cause.
i bought some B shape rubber weather strip and stuck it along the door where the the boot seal is meant to provide a complete seal
the water was running down the trim into the well where the bolts attach the door arm to the car and then into the boot.
from your picture i can see alot of rust that side so it might be the cause.
i bought some B shape rubber weather strip and stuck it along the door where the the boot seal is meant to provide a complete seal
Lyndasbottom
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Mine was the water coming in via the plastic clips that hold the external trim across the top of the door. Took a while to track it down as the usual giveaway is the roof lining being wet which I didn't have. The water was running down inside the body on the drivers side and working it's way into the "fish tank". I replaced the clips and put a load of sealant around them which cured it. I'd had the seal off where possible and re-seated that and replaced the rear door membrane before I found the actual cause. Another possibility might be the rear washer hose. Mines come adrift somewhere, the pumps working but nothing from the washer nozzle. Opened the "fish tank" the other day for something and there was washer fluid in the bottom, you could tell by the smell. Another little job on the list 
.
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andyfreelandy
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That's cos it's not raining !
I notice, after heavy rain, when I open the door, water comes out of the small air holes in the rubber door seal along the bottom edge. It shouldn't be getting in there !
I notice, after heavy rain, when I open the door, water comes out of the small air holes in the rubber door seal along the bottom edge. It shouldn't be getting in there !
teddywood1
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PRO
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In my case the fishtank was because of a buff in rear driver door, was a bit of a distance between the metal and the outer wheel arch trim. New clips, pushed out the buff and no more fishtank.
Cobby44
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- Kings Lynn
I have this exact problem! I'm yet to investigate & I'm not really sure where to start. I must've sponged out half a litre at the weekend, reversed the car in the drive, took boot lining out & had the sun on the cubby hole to dry out. This is as far as I got as I spent the entire afternoon cleaning the car to showroom spec... I'm a perfectionist.
Any ideas guys? I'd like to try something & if it doesn't help then try something else. I'll tick them off one by one.
What should I start with first?
Also I'd like to replace broken cubby hole lid locking system. Thoughts?
Any ideas guys? I'd like to try something & if it doesn't help then try something else. I'll tick them off one by one.
What should I start with first?
Also I'd like to replace broken cubby hole lid locking system. Thoughts?
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Bounty
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Blast the underside with a hose and see where it comes in
Cobby44
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- Kings Lynn
I've blasted The underside & nothing. After 2 days of no rain I go out this morning to find barely nothing in the cubby but as I like the carpet toward the rear seats it's a lot more damp & the underside of the carpet is wet. I've reversed the car in the drive & currently have the sun on it. Before I did this I washed the car for half an hour hosing litres and litres of water on the roof, down the windows/doors. I'll now go out & see if it's gotten worse.
Cobby44
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So I found the cause. The water is coming in through the rear window behind nearside passengers window. Took the boot carpet out, both the interior boot panels off & emptied the excess water out off the small chamber between shell & bodywork. Hosed water down the side off the car & aimed specifically at the fixed back window. At the same time I covered the fuel cap to eliminate that possibility. It was indeed the rear window. Why??? I guess the bonding has perished, will need to find a way to solve this. In the meantime there was a rubber grommet (image below) which was stopping the water from escaping underneath the car. The well was filling up over time & spilling into the boot compartment. I removed the grommet & hosed the side again. The water can now escape. Not sure what this grommet was for but it's best taken out. This hasn't solved the problem of sealing the rear window. Any ideas?
Cheers
Cheers
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andyfreelandy
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Many potential solutions on here and it does seem that the boot box, as the lowest point, is where the water collects.
I finally solved the wet box on my 2002 TD4 by removing the all the rear boot trim and carpet, putting a low pressure hose over the boot and window and roof and watching through the window.
Water was tracking under the top tailgate roof black plastic trim and onto the top edge of the glass. From there some of it went inside the glass and down the two sides dripping onto the boot floor. This then ran into the boot box.
Carefully prised the side and top trim off around the tailgate, cleaned and zinc coated the metal backplate to the top trim, applied black mastic bead to top and bottom of top trim. Reassembled and been dry for a week in the rain and snow!!
Also, carpet is plastic backed so on my car the water couldn't get out even with the plug removed from the boot box.
I finally solved the wet box on my 2002 TD4 by removing the all the rear boot trim and carpet, putting a low pressure hose over the boot and window and roof and watching through the window.
Water was tracking under the top tailgate roof black plastic trim and onto the top edge of the glass. From there some of it went inside the glass and down the two sides dripping onto the boot floor. This then ran into the boot box.
Carefully prised the side and top trim off around the tailgate, cleaned and zinc coated the metal backplate to the top trim, applied black mastic bead to top and bottom of top trim. Reassembled and been dry for a week in the rain and snow!!
Also, carpet is plastic backed so on my car the water couldn't get out even with the plug removed from the boot box.
andyfreelandy
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Car has been driven in the rain, been parked in the rain and 4 days on the boot cubby box is as dry as Nodge's diff bearing!!!!
Will be doing the other Freelanders in the family now. Bought a proper trim removal plier and some new clips for the side bits as they are a bit special and very hard to remove without damage.
My toolbox can now go back in, my hammer had gone quite rusty!!
Will be doing the other Freelanders in the family now. Bought a proper trim removal plier and some new clips for the side bits as they are a bit special and very hard to remove without damage.
My toolbox can now go back in, my hammer had gone quite rusty!!
andyfreelandy
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Based on the above success I did a similar job on the G4 today.
Took photos and used the new trim clip tool. Will post later, once all mastic has dried will test in the rain and report back. Had about 1/2 inch of water in one side.
Took photos and used the new trim clip tool. Will post later, once all mastic has dried will test in the rain and report back. Had about 1/2 inch of water in one side.
andyfreelandy
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Photos:
The top black trim piece has to be removed. First time around I took one side piece off and had to replace the clips as they broke. This time I did it without taking the side off, just lifted the side piece clear at the top to unhook the top trim. The damp on the window is largely caused by my soggy golden retriever !
I used my new clip pliers to carefully locate the trim clip and pop them (or break them) to allow the trim to come off. Better to break the clip than the trim as the clips are slid in and can be replaced.
The metal bracket behind the trim was rusty and the seals were soaked. First job was to take this off (5 screws) and clean, dry and zinc coat.
That should make it last a bit longer.
These are the replacement clips for the top trim, you need 5.
Refit the metal bracket and run 2 beads of silicone, one along the bottom as shown and one........
along the top. I used black mastic on the first car but this is easier. Mastic is fine until you want to pull the trim off again to realign it and then it generates huge 'threads' of black goo that drip everywhere !
I added another thin bead to the seal on the top trim before refitting it.
You need to flex the trim to get it to sit under the side trim and locate the lugs on the side trim into the ends of the top trim. Then look underneath, make sure the new trim clips are over the holes in the bracket and give it a gentle thump back into place.
Job done.
The top black trim piece has to be removed. First time around I took one side piece off and had to replace the clips as they broke. This time I did it without taking the side off, just lifted the side piece clear at the top to unhook the top trim. The damp on the window is largely caused by my soggy golden retriever !
I used my new clip pliers to carefully locate the trim clip and pop them (or break them) to allow the trim to come off. Better to break the clip than the trim as the clips are slid in and can be replaced.
The metal bracket behind the trim was rusty and the seals were soaked. First job was to take this off (5 screws) and clean, dry and zinc coat.
That should make it last a bit longer.
These are the replacement clips for the top trim, you need 5.
Refit the metal bracket and run 2 beads of silicone, one along the bottom as shown and one........
along the top. I used black mastic on the first car but this is easier. Mastic is fine until you want to pull the trim off again to realign it and then it generates huge 'threads' of black goo that drip everywhere !
I added another thin bead to the seal on the top trim before refitting it.
You need to flex the trim to get it to sit under the side trim and locate the lugs on the side trim into the ends of the top trim. Then look underneath, make sure the new trim clips are over the holes in the bracket and give it a gentle thump back into place.
Job done.
Any idea why it's under the carpet then
I should have said probably your woofer connection. But if your stereo doesnt have a decent lump of a speaker in the fish tank then the conector wouldn't be needed, so could be tucked away. But to be sure take a photo and someone smarter than me will tell you exactly what it is for.
It's part of the wiring loom but I can't find it on the wiring diagrams thanks for your reply though
