fishsponge's ongoing thread of problems!

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i do have a 600mm breaker bar and a torque wrench almost the same length, but probably don't have a socket that big.

I wouldn't mind buying a socket, but to be honest... if one garage has estimated it at £70 + VAT, that doesn't sound too bad for what will take me a few hours lying on cold tarmac!

Just need to get a couple more quotes now... oh, and some money!
 
pinion seal is easy.

the easiest way is to lock the flange somehow, i used a piece of flat bar with a hole in the end, bolted it to the flange, then popped another flange bolt in and rested the bar against it, then turned the whole setup until the bar rested against the chassis. this now stops the flange from turning.

you can now, relatively easily, crack the nut/bolt off on the flange, and with a bit of a lever/tug it'll come off. new seal is easy, then just do it up bastard tight again, using same method.

not worth 70 quid imho.
 
thanks for that, Mr. Noisy... one problem though... i would need a piece of flat bar, some method of putting a hole in the end of it, a bolt that would allow me to bolt it to the flange and another bolt to rest the piece of bar against!

if I had the above items, i'd certain attempt it myself... it doesn't sound too hard to be honest, but it comes back to a lack of tools etc... and the risk of being stuck at home if it goes wrong, with no way of getting to work etc.!

I am grateful for the advice, though! :D:D
 
use the propshaft bolts. theyre the perfect size :)

piece of flat bar...? hmmm.

well, if nothing else a local engineering/fabricating shop will give you a piece of 500x40x4mm mild steel with a 10mm hole in the end for MUCH less than 70 quid, more like a fiver.

a big piece of flat bar is a handy item to have anyway, often useful as a heavy duty chisel, drift, lever, hammer etc.

look into it - got to get out of the habit of giving in and going to the garage!!
 
i'll do my best to look into it, but to be honest, although I may be broke, time is something i often have even less of! I'm busy most weekend days and obviously at work during the week, so even getting to a fab shop while it's open would probably involve annual leave!

I will do my best to look into it though, because, as you say, I really do have to break out of the habit of going to the garage! :D
 
Oh and another thing, I dont wana suggest anything too crazy here but what about fitting a 200tdi rear prop?

Seeing as you are taking the drive flange off anyway, you can get a drive flange and seal kit for about 20 (new) and a 200 rear prop for about 20 (second hand) and then you're avoiding future hassle aswell.

Cheers :)
 
hmm... tempting... is it a straight swap? and i mean straight... same bolts, same fittings, same bolt holes, no mods needed to anything, so filing or drilling needed etc, etc, etc...??

and how do they differ? no doughnut? if that's the case, what softens the shocks?
 
Afaik it's a straight swap, ask someone who's done it. Defo no cutting or drilling, just need to make sure your supplier orders the correct spline flange for your diff.

Nothing softens the shocks, that's the great thing, no stupid rubber to break every 6 months. I don't even see why they bothered, I can't see it making the world of difference tbh. And the front prop is still direct so it all seems a bit pointless to me...
 
hmm... i'll have a ponder. I don't usually question manufacturer decisions unless they seem utterly ridiculous... and in this case, I think i'd rather replace a doughnut every so often than increase the risk of damaging the transmission instead. I agree that it shouldn't make much difference, but i'm a cautious, paranoid old git (despite being only 28)! :D:D:D
 
The far superior 200tdi and far more rugged defender never had rubber donuts. The donut, like many manufacturer decisions, was fitted for more road comfort - not reliability!

Up to you brother, but you know the facts!
 
hmm... interesting thread. thanks for that!

Thing is... 99% of my miles are road miles... off roading is an occasional event for me, sadly! So, on that basis, I think i'll replace with a doughnut this time around.

I'll certainly look at the 200 prop shaft next time around though, depending how long the new one lasts and how much money i have then (the money dictates the amount of off roading, you see!!). :D
 
Fishsponge. I have been following your thread on and off for a while now.

If you are struggling to do jobs outside your house due to lack of tools or experience then have a look at the 'Essex lanes' thread in the green laning section.

We are arranging a workshop day where a few of us can get some jobs done on our trucks in a garage environment with help and advice from others.

Only in Suffolk so not a long way from you.
 
Bolts FTC4043 (M12 x 65), nut NV11204L, washers FTC4044 for the doughnut end.

Oil seal FRC8220 or FTC5258 depending on chassis no.

Right, so I need the following, right?

1x TVF100010B COUPLING (YOKE ONLY) | 26.32 HARDY SPICER
and
6x FTC4043 - Bolt - Propshaft Rubber Coupling
and
6x NV112041L - Oval Locking Nut
and
6x FTC4044 - M12 Form A Washer Plain

Subtotal: £31.15

OR:

1x TVF100010GB Prop Coupling Incl. Bolts-Oem for Land Rover

Subtotal: £26.42

Apparently the Britpart doughnut is OEM! If Britpart are so unreliable, why do Land Rover use them as genuine?!? or is this "unreliability" actually just purely subjective...?
_________________________________________________

Regarding the oil seal, i'm just going to buy one of each, but do I want:

1x FRC8220G - Oil Seal
and
1x FTC5258G - Oil Seal

Subtotal: £12.11

(The above seem to be something to do with "ANGUS")

OR:

1x FRC8220 - Oil Seal - Diff Pinion (Non SAlms)
and
1x FTC5258 - Oil Seal - Diff Pinion

Subtotal: £3.64

One last question... one of the Allmakes doughnuts says is comes with "Bearings and Bolts". A doughnut doesn't need bearings, does it?!?!?
 
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