Fault 3141 Driver Demand has been faulty

PaulMc said:

That 7-core looks OK

You don't need the tool, a safety pin works well, as does a small jeweller's screwdriver.




Are you "defeatfoesltd" on ebay?

If so, I've had your message, and will deal direct on here, if that's OK?

I can do them a bit cheaper here, without ebay's fees.

.

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resto_d1 said:

Hi Paul, I PM'd a while back. Could you give me a shout re a little kit to do the job (minus the cable)?

Thanks

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yfo866 said:

Good luck. I've given up holding my breath...

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resto_d1 said:

Simtek also do the bits if you need them mate

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resto_d1 said:

Yes exactly I was going to order double. Only thing that I wondered with simtek was that in Paul’s listings the ecu pins are labeled as 071 but simtek is 072. I had a very wet and misty drive back from Hereford which involved the car getting soaked. It didn’t play up but always in back of my mind. It’s ridiculous to have a defender your scared of getting wet and the fact that the ecu is in the seat box is madness! I’ll never use it for propper off roading but it gets used on green lanes And fields when fishing and shooting. I really want mine done before weather and shooting season comes!

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yfo866 said:

After sending Simtekuk two emails i finally got a reply yesterday asking if i wanted tin or gold contacts. irst i was going to go for tin but then investigated the difference online and discovered that gold and gold and tin and tin are both good but if you mix the two you can get bad corrosion. So i had a look at the connections in the ECU and as they were gold and not tin coloured opted for gold. So the cost for 20 of each plus seals delivered is £29.46
I'me going to assume that the connections at the throttle are the same as i really couldn't be arsed to spend twenty minutes on my knees removing the pedal to check!

https://www.microcontrollertips.com/gold-tin-contacts-just-dont-mate-together/

https://experience.molex.com/gold-or-tin-versus-gold-and-tin/

I have some electrical connection lubricant and also some stuff that expells moisture from electrical connections so i'll lubricate both ends of the cable. I got the latter for my Disco 1 when i discovered the probable source of my 'alrming' issues was down to the water that was dribbling down the passenger A post and filling the alarm ECU box with water...
The itemised invoice from https://www.simtekuk.co.uk/ is below

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Drives said:

Hello all,

Suffered from some similar and well discussed problems such as a bit of miss-firing; loss of power at the mid-high rev range; EML coming on when I've been trying to either accelerate hard or taken foot off suddenly - Discovery going into limp mode but a quick change into neutral..engine switched off..engine switched back on...gear shift back into Drive and carry on normal driving seemed to solve that problem on a temporary basis. Worth noting - that particular fault does not appear with cruise control engaged, its only when I'm on the accelerator pedal.

(Oh and if you are reading this but are not a member, then it's worth going through the registration as that will gain access to the how-to photos I'll upload at the end of this.)

I've previously suffered from the usual faults on the TD5 - oil in the loom showing up in the red plug on the ECU so went through the process of cleaning the connectors and changing out the injector harness - clearing that up made a significant change to my power.

Also, I'd noticed most of my top conduit had started to perish so changed all that to re-protect my cabling.

So, decided this weekend to tackle the harness between the accelerator pedal and the ECU on my TD5 Discovery 2 (2000).

I've got faults:
3141 Driver Demand has been faulty
3028 Driver Demand 1 high
3129 Road Speed Missing
3143 Turbo has been over-boosting
All gained from the use of a Hawk Eye Diagnostic tool.

Started behind the battery by removing the ECU; stripping back a bit of the tape around the conduit connecting to the black plug and then loosening off the fuse box.
View attachment 103164
13mm needed to take off the live terminals - I taped them back insulated so I didn't have to disconnect the whole battery - just depends on how safe you want to feel playing with the electrics.

Purchased a set of spare cables, pin c/w seals from a user on here and completed my replacement set by purchasing the Durite tool and a 3m length of thin conduit from 2 other eBay users.
View attachment 103176

10mm used to remove the whole fuse box - although there isn't a lot of room underneath it, this just gives you enough to inspect the main loom going from the ECU and through the bulk-head.

Headed into the drivers foot well to remove the drop-down fuse cover along with the side and rear kick-board - all easily down as these are held in place with plastic plugs and a couple of 8mm nuts.

Accelerator pedal is a bit of a bitch to get off - you need a 13mm socket and I found an angled socket set with a variety of different lengths socket-set extensions a must to get to the nuts and remove them.

I exposed the conduit above my pedals to inspect the state of the cables and how they were fed through the bulk-head. I don't think I was the first in here as there was far too much tape for my liking along with lots of cable kinks and disarray.

Took off the connector from the accelerator pedal and with the use of a Durite terminal tool, removed the connections. I needed to grind down very slightly the thin flat spike for ease of removing each terminal.
View attachment 103165
View attachment 103166
I ran the conduit through the higher black bulk-head plug and threaded through the cabling.
View attachment 103168
Of the 7 connectors being used on the accelerator pedal, 2 of them get spliced so they only present 5 connectors at the ECU - the wiring diagram shows this.
View attachment 103169View attachment 103170
I didn't get exact colours so made a quick plan as to what I was replacing with what.

I used a terminal block to replace the splice and replaced the terminal pins back into the original plug.
View attachment 103171
Back at the ECU I did the same - then just swapped out pins: 12, 14, 20, 26, 36 after running the conduit along the same path of the existing loom.
View attachment 103172View attachment 103173
I've just taped back, insulated and covered all existing wiring in the event this replacement doesn't rectify the problem.

All back together and been on a few local drives with no issues so far, however I've a long drive tomorrow so that will test out whether I've cleared down my Driver Demand issue or whether I need either a replacement pedal or ECU.

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PaulMc said:

Hi Rob,

I've just sent you a PM.

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