Disco 2 Failed injector? TD5

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T

TAH

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Location
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My Disco has started doing a weird 'running on three' sort of thing. So I am wondering what the normal failure mode for an injector might be, (rough running? no power?)
Symptoms are a bit odd though - when running it feels and runs like a its missing on one pot - and lacks power on hills. Over run and coasting seem better. Ticks over like a Massey Ferguson 35 - i.e. crap.
Still drives fine, no warning lights, temp all good.

If I turn it off, and restart it 20 secs later, it'll run fine for about 5 secs then go back to sounding poorly. Is that what they do? Injectors first port of call ? are they easy to change?

Additional info - this started pretty well straight after some reasonable articulation of the rear axle crossing a bank - so also wondering if there is a fuel pipe restricted or something. Can't see anything and I can reach in and move the pipes coming off the filter...

Help!

regards of the season
 
Check the red plug on the ecu for oil contamination first. If any present clean with electrical contact cleaner whilst you source another injector loom, as it will need changing
 
johnlad said:
Check the red plug on the ecu for oil contamination first. If any present clean with electrical contact cleaner whilst you source another injector loom, as it will need changing
Click to expand...
Where is said ECU located?And do you mean source an injector loom as and when the injectors are changed? or get one anyway as its probably that?
 
Ecu is in the engine bay, next to the battery. If oil present clean then change injector loom, post results on here,
Don't change injectors yet
 
johnlad said:
Ecu is in the engine bay, next to the battery. If oil present clean then change injector loom, post results on here,
Don't change injectors yet
Click to expand...
Aha - got it. thanks both. I'll give that a try since its not expensive. Ebay injector loom ok or best to go to one of the suppliers (paddock etc etc?)
 
I think I spent £25 to £30 on mine and it is working fine.

Copy part against OEM always is a discussion point on here for this. I know of someone who changes theirs every time they do an oil change.....

Cheers
 
Thanks guys. Found a 'kit' on JGS that comes with the rocker gasket and had a read the Disco 2 site so thats where I will start.
If there is no oil BTW.. ? - then I am back to injectors or rear fuel pump I suppose.
 
I would be surprised if there is no oil...LOL

Clean it , do not over do it with the cleaner. I used electrical cleaner and cotton ear buds.

You will more than likely need to clean it a few times over a month or so, even after changing the injector harness.

Cheers
 
neilly said:
I would be surprised if there is no oil...LOL

Clean it , do not over do it with the cleaner. I used electrical cleaner and cotton ear buds.

You will more than likely need to clean it a few times over a month or so, even after changing the injector harness.

Cheers
Click to expand...
Thanks Neilly. Hope thats it. Will report back. PITA is I wanted to use it tomorrow for some less than clean driving roads and chuck the family bikes in and now it needs this! - maybe have time in the morning in the freezing wind to check the ECU at least and get the parts ordered
 
A couple of points to keep in mind with this job.
  • Yes it's more than likely that there'll be oil in the red plug on the ECU, so you'll have to be very thorough when clean it out, including if necessary pulling the plug to bits to get the oil out.
  • If the contamination is really bad, there's a chance that some oil might have entered the ECU through the plug. There might be a requirement to open the case of the ECU to get it out from there.
  • You should be careful about what solvent you use to clean the oil out. Some people use brake cleaner, others use IPA (Iso Propyl Alcohol) which can be bought in aerosol cans.
  • Don't take a visual examination of the wires as proof of no contamination, any contamination will travel by capiliary action along the conductor, inside the insulation where it can't be seen.
  • If there is oil in the harness, it could take a while to run out, so if possible, leave the red plug disconnected and hanging down as low as possible to drain the last drops out.
  • JGS 4x4 have a good reputation as a supplier. Get a tube of Red Hylomar at the same time, you'll find it easier to use it to "glue" the gasket to the cam cover which makes it easier to properly seat it on the engine when you've finished.
 
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If you want to do a proper job get 13 x ERR7266 and you'll not need any sealant on a new quaqlity gasket except a drop at the back ''half moon'' side to keep it in place untill you refit the cover, and buy GENUINE LR harness, not OEM/OE or other stuff, dont be cheap on this if you want it to last for years believe me
 
My mate took his td5 to a local supposed 4x4 specialist he bought it from them 18months ago it was as you put it running on 4 or 5 cylinders he had recently replaced the inject harness and cleaned out the ecu as they were oily. But this was a new problem now this is where it gets interesting are you ready for this ???...........

The so called expert took out his phone recorded the engine running for 30 seconds or so then, wait for it.................played back the recording slowed down a lot and pronounced injector number 4 to be faulty.........wow just fecking wow I said to my mate when he stopped off at mine to tell me what was wrong with his td5 and he was going to see how much a new injector was.

I said let's check your rear in tank pump…...............yep dead , fit new pump all fixed.

Check your pump !!!!!!!!!!! If you don't hear it prime at first turn of the key its fecked
 
Happy to say - All done. Thanks Neilly and Johnlad as your advice saved me considerable cash I'd imagine as I was originally thinking injection, and just chuck it into my local indy for them to sort out - however:
Pre-oredered the injector loom from JGS - assuming I was going to be replacing it and knowing I'd be under there as had just ordered an EGR delete kit from same. both parts arrived Saturday morning (today) as luck would have it.
So I went out this afternoon armed with a thermos of tea, and removed the ECU red plug.
Dun dun Daaaa - loads of oil
Cleaned the plug meticulously with electrical contact cleaner and cotton buds, and blew oil out of the terminals with canned air
Same on the ECU side
Removal of the cam cover was easy enough - revealing a sheared off cover bolt - so I'll need to come back and fix that in due course as I didn't have a spare and its New Years Eve!
Removed the old loom, cleaned the oily bits and fitted the new one, cam cover went on no issue with a little bit of instant to hold it on in key places and also popped all the bolt guides/seals back in - between them they held the gasket fine for me to plop it back on.

My EGR has a gas cooler on it, and I didn't order enough blanks, so I've left that on there and blanked the EGR side for now - plus had to repair the top coolant leak off pipe from that as it was so brittle it broke as I moved it. Pain.

(Begs the question, if you do remove it totally what do you do with the associated coolant pipes?
Or do you just leave it in place blanked off?)

Anyway - running wise the car now runs lovely - and on a short test drive appears to pull and drive generally better than before. Although that may be me willing it that way :) - only done 78k miles so it has always driven ok.

Thanks again to those that contributed. Much appreciated.
 

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Hi @TAH

Sounds good, nice write up......but the piccie failed to load....:(.. we like piccies....

About the cooler , @bankz5152 may have a word or two to say, there was quite a discussion when he did his. Some leave it, some remove it. It is one of those 6 of one / half a dozen of the other answers.

Also, remember to go back in a few weeks and check the red plug, the oil can still leach out for a few weeks / month or so.

Cheers
 
neilly said:
Hi @TAH

Sounds good, nice write up......but the piccie failed to load....:(.. we like piccies....

About the cooler , @bankz5152 may have a word or two to say, there was quite a discussion when he did his. Some leave it, some remove it. It is one of those 6 of one / half a dozen of the other answers.

Also, remember to go back in a few weeks and check the red plug, the oil can still leach out for a few weeks / month or so.

Cheers
Click to expand...
yeah now I've seen what amount of oil gets in there, and knowing I need to go back and sort that bolt I will be back to check but at least its on the road again. The ECU doesn't look like something I want to take in and out a lot if I'm honest. I was waiting for a wire to fall out or break today..

oh - with the now removed vacuum EGR - I just scrap it? or chuck it on eBay as someone will want one ?
I know its pointless, but seems a shame to throw away . I don't like throwin away Lol

Piccie.hmm I did try and add a link from dropbox but obviously that didn't work - so I tried the upload - it did show as an attached pic in my post.?
 
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