F4 HDC AMT mulpile signals

Hi all
2006 FL1 2.0 TD4

Constant flashing F4
Constant orange HDC light
D&N both illuminate when in D
PO705 inhibitor switch multiple signal or 0
P1815 AMT multiple signal or no signal
Does not change gear in sport mode .


HISTORIC CODES
C1151 CAN gearbox failure
C1116 supply voltage too low (vehicle running)

2/4 solenoid already replaced with no change.
Barrel connectors for gearbox visually checked and cleaned . No change

Any advice on what checks I should be doing next!
Thanks

Introducing yourself properly like a real grown-up ?

Dippypud said:

Introducing yourself properly like a real grown-up ?

Click to expand...

Thankyou for your input !
Nicely introduced yourself aha
I'm not really sure what to say matey put me on the spot nah didn't realise there was social rules
I'm Danny I have a 2006 td4 facelift
Nice to meet you all
Here for knowledge and learning not really a very chatty person apologies.

Back to the dreaded F4 diagnosis though ...
I'm aware after a fair bit of reading that the I pack ( dash module) is interchangeable.
But is the TCM?
Does anyone have any checks I can do on the TCM & I Pack ?

OK so quick update on some of the resistance tests I've completed so far .
For anyone with the same problem I've started out by checking the resistance at barrel plug co244 (left hand side larger )
Started with all the sensors .
Turbine pin sensor pin 3-4 - 585 ohms
Vehicle speed sensor 5-5 - 582 ohms
Fluid temp sensor pin 7-8 - 1651ohms ( car was warm so about right )
All sensors tested within range .
Next I've tested all the solenoids on the same barrel plug .
Shift solenoid a - 174 ohms way out
Shift solenoid b - 177 ohms way out
Shift solenoid c - 176 ohms way out
Low clutch timing solenoid- 172 ohms way out
2-4 brake timing solenoid- 175 ohms way out
Reduction timing solenoid - 170 ohms
Lock up solenoid - 140 ohms
Line pressure ssolenoid- 037 ohms
2-4 brake duty solenoid- 035 ohms
Does anyone have any explanations or ideas where to go with that information thanks

Hi, after a g/box rebuild (by a specialist due to reverse band failure) mine was 'stuck' in D1, red led showing on g/selector & D1 in the i-pack no matter where the selector lever was positioned, PRND421I also had F4 showing if I tried to turn it over. It turned out to be a faulty XYZ (inhibitor) switch. Not sure how or why it had failed as it was faultless when the g/box went to the specialist (I removed & refitted the box). As these are simple to change if you can fine a good working one, I got mine from e bay for £30, it could be worth a try,best of luck.

Give the gearbox connector contacts a thorough clean & then remove & re-insert the connectors a couple of times. I find it hard to believe all the solenoids are way out ? Usually only one at a time fails ?

Thanks guys
I plan on stripping the xyz inhibitor switch and cleaning & reassembling.
As far as I can tell though this shouldn't cause the massive resistance I have in my solenoids.
As for the barrel connections out the gearbox ( C0244) , they are tight and spotless .
I've now done the same resistance checks on the gearbox sensors & solenoids but I've checked them from the main plug entering the transmission control module ( plug c0932)
This is a far more accurate check as it checks the entire wiring harness.
My results changed and are as follows :

Plug C0932 sensor resistance
.vehicle speed sensor pins 5-20 1700 ohms

.intermediate speed sensor pins 21-20 1 ohms ●Open circuit?●

.turbine speed sensor pins 24-20 1 ●I belive only the v6 has this ? Using a v6 specs with a jacto Box●

.Fluid temp sensor pins 39-20 1 ohms ●? Open circuit ? This tested good at the barrel plug?●

Solenoids tested from C0932

.2/4 brake duty solenoid pins 3-17 flashes 1500ohms upwards ?

.2/4 brake timing solenoid pins 4-17 flashing 807 ohms upwards?

.Reduction timing solenoid pins 10-17 flashing 400ohms upwards?

.shift solenoid valve A B & C pins 15-17 14-17 52-17 flashing 1300 300 176 ohms ?

.lock up solenoid pins 16-17 flashing 1100 ohms upwards

.line pressure duty solenoid pins 17-18 526 ohms

.shift solenoid c pins 52-17 176 ohms
●funnily enough this is the only one to share the same resistance as tested at barrel plug

.low clutch timing solenoid pins 53-17 210 ohms

Getting to the limits of what I can do here I fear .
Would I be right to say that despite the fact i pulled a code for the xyz inhibitor switch it wouldn't affect my resistance to my sensors and solenoids ?
I'm also assuming at this point that I can rule out the TCM
Is anyone able to make sense of this ?
All my solenoids and sensors are failing resistance checks from the main TCM plug.Thanks

Stick to one fred or you'll confuse us.

Are you measuring with an auto range meter or manually selecting different ranges yerself?

There's two barrel connectors on the gear box looms. One does the control and monitoring of the auto - sensor/solenoid. The other supplies gear lever position to the auto's computer. The first thing to do is make sure the barrel connectors are pushed together correctly and not coming apart. With the collar twisted, pull them apart gently to see if there's movement. If so tie wrap them together.

Next make sure the LED's next to the gear lever read correctly as you move the gear lever. The dash needs to read correct anorl. Yer can't move forwards with confidence without this part working first.

Are you sure yer measuring the correct pins?

Freelander 1 v6 Jatco Auto Gearbox - Measuring the Solenoid and Sensor Resistancess

Thanks again dude and apologies for the confusion, desperately posted this in numerous places.

I have been checking the correct pins though yes. And I'm using a brand new manual draper multimeter.

Thanks again

Edit .. funnily enough I'm using the exact same video you posted so 100% correct pins

It's my vid.

If two LED's illuminate by the lever then that needs solved first. There's sensors around the lever to monitor it's position. Check each position to see what fails, PRND421 and check it will go from D to Sport and back, multiple times. See if you can stop it illuminating D and N, by moving to Sport then back to D. If N and D illuminate together then push the gear lever forwards/backwards slightly to see if a slight nudge gets D and N on thier own. Do this with the engine oft and electrics on only.

Your a star matey
I'll get back outside and have a play
Will update later
Thanks a bunch for your time pal

Don't really understand your results ??

".intermediate speed sensor pins 21-20 1 ohms ●Open circuit?●". does this mean 1ohm or open circuit ?

".2/4 brake duty solenoid pins 3-17 flashes 1500ohms upwards ?" Does this mean you get 1500ohms, or various readings ?

So my reading was 1 ohm and I was asking if that correlates to a open circuit if that makes any sense.

And mreading would fluctuate from 1500 up to various other figures . Never settled .

As for the gear display light and trying to get it to stop illuminating N & D while in D .
sat with electrics on engine off
P red light
R red light
N red light
D red light & N red light
From drive into sports mode
D red light turns off Sm red light appears but the N red light remains the whole time .
Back into D red light & N red light
press gently up towards N 2 x red lights remain.
Press from D gently down towards 4 and the neutral light drops off .
From D to 4 1x red light
from 4 to 2 1 x red light
From 2 to 1 1x red light
And ect I've repeated but the neutral light remains apart from the moment before it clicks from D into 4

Several problems here. Somehow you have D and N illumonated at the same time. It could be the signals are joined together in a dodgy wiring harness, dodgy selector switch on top of the auto, or sensors playing up around the gear lever.

We need to isolate the problem. Put the gear lever in park. Take the under engine cover oft. You will see the auto has the gear selector link fing going to a lever on the bottom of yer auto. Undo the nut to allow the gear lever and selecter to move, but not the gearbox switch. Before you do this mark on the rod which goes through the nut, its location on the rod. Scratch each side of it slightly with a hack saw. Just enough to mark it so you know exactly where to put it back later. You can use a marker pen but it may rub oft. Now try moving the gear lever to see if you still get D abd N illuminated at yhe same time.

Alternativley remove the transmission tunnel plastic to get access to see the workings of the gear lever. Gear nob just pulls oft but its strong. Be careful not to punch yerself. To to see for problems.

i would go for the first option if it were me.

Thanks again for your time matey
I've had look and snapped a picture If you don't mind casting your eye over it
I've drawn circles like a child round the 2 nuts I can see .
Would you mind confirming which it is
Red or blue ? im assuming you mean red and your referring to the bar above said circle
thanks

Mark then undo the RED one.

The blue pivits, turning the selector switch. Red releases the auto lever to stop it turning the switch on yer auto.

Absolute star again pal
Genuinely appreciate the nuggets of gold your freely handing owt !
I'll get onto this first thing tomorrow and post a update on the results!

Back again with more foolish questions !
I'm hoping you are a man of patience here.
So got the nut off , measured the excess rod for reassembling.
Removed said nut and let the rod hang loose then turned ignition on engine off and changed through my gears. Park stays illuminated regardless of what gear I put her in.
I'm assuming you meant change gear with the gear stick and not the selector on the gearbox itself .
Do you make this to be a normal response?
In my head I imagine it should still be illuminating each separate gear regardless of what the box is doing ?

Thanks again for reading through the waffle