Essex lanes

666 george · Nov 20, 2012

You'll need a mill & rotary table to start with. Just mill all the hole's on the swivel's by 3 deg's, one side clockwise the other anti-clockwise. You'll end up with a long slot. Some people weld the hole's up first & redrill but that's up to you, I didn't & never had any problems.
There is a write up on LR4x4 some where.

Jongould · Nov 20, 2012

wickford90 said:
Bit of advise needed, going to put on plus 5'' shocks on rear, as i will be changing mounting bracket, should i go for pin/pin or stay with the pin/eye set up. Ive seen the pin ones snapped before. What make should i go for, got pro comp on front but was looking at terrafirma ones.

Have you dropped your mounts yet? They will take the 2" extra height out the springs and give you back full articulation, if you then +5 your shocks you will get some pretty extreme articulation. You will need cones (or sliders which are meant to be better) and probably double cranked arms as well. I have got straps on my rear mounts as well so if I can get a puncture I can lift my rear axle with a hi-lift otherwise you will keep jacking the body and the wheel will stay on the floor. As has been said you will want the bump stops e.t.c. and as far as I understand the pin-pin are the better setup for long travel. If you had mounts and shocks I would expect you would need a wide angle ball joint as well, X-eng do them for about £35 I think.

Gotta agree with Tusken as well, my DeCarbons have been on a year now and have done well, not too soft, not too hard, hold the road well e.t.c. I only hear good stuff about OME mind, they are very big in the US and oz...

Have a look here, this is what an extreme kit consists of, might giove you some ideas
http://extreme4x4.co.uk/acatalog/Extreme_Kit.html

discomark10 · Nov 20, 2012

666 george said:
You'll need a mill & rotary table to start with. Just mill all the hole's on the swivel's by 3 deg's, one side clockwise the other anti-clockwise. You'll end up with a long slot. Some people weld the hole's up first & redrill but that's up to you, I didn't & never had any problems.
There is a write up on LR4x4 some where.

Well im in luck!! The old man just brought a piller mill

dont supose you have some sort of pics showing the modification? Sounds like a another thing to add to list of mods lol

wickford90 · Nov 20, 2012

Jongould said:
Have you dropped your mounts yet? They will take the 2" extra height out the springs and give you back full articulation, if you then +5 your shocks you will get some pretty extreme articulation. You will need cones (or sliders which are meant to be better) and probably double cranked arms as well. I have got straps on my rear mounts as well so if I can get a puncture I can lift my rear axle with a hi-lift otherwise you will keep jacking the body and the wheel will stay on the floor. As has been said you will want the bump stops e.t.c. and as far as I understand the pin-pin are the better setup for long travel. If you had mounts and shocks I would expect you would need a wide angle ball joint as well, X-eng do them for about £35 I think.

Gotta agree with Tusken as well, my DeCarbons have been on a year now and have done well, not too soft, not too hard, hold the road well e.t.c. I only hear good stuff about OME mind, they are very big in the US and oz...

Have a look here, this is what an extreme kit consists of, might giove you some ideas
Extreme 4x4 Ltd EXTREME KITS

Still got +2" set up on with stock mounting brackets. I've got extended bump stops and cranked trailing arms, was going to do rear only but listening to everyone guess should do fronts as well, which means i got the other mods to do. Who/where/how much to mill ball joints. I know Graham done a DIY job and think Mikey did also.

Brian S · Nov 20, 2012

I checked out the truck today, found the rear brake pads worn down and the discs worn, always the same after Bures.

I topped up over a gallon of water/antifreeze, and let the engine warm up and it did not pressurize or overheat.

I checked the pully's and the tensioner is a little noisy and the idler on the cambelt cover has a little play and a little noise, I dont think its too bad as it quietened down after warming up a while, need to take it for a drive though.

I also found the air filter filthy and wet, the snorkle is ok but the intake was pointing forward and I think sucked in water after splashing through the mud. There was twigs and berrys as well as water in the airbox.

I've directed the intake to the side and will see how it goes.

wickford90 · Nov 20, 2012

Colchester seb said:
Is anyone going to Essex off road on Sunday ????

Might join you if my chronic back pain goes away. Did you get your motor sorted?

James1966 · Nov 20, 2012

wickford90 said:
Might join you if my chronic back pain goes away. Did you get your motor sorted?

Let me know if you have a spare seat

Drizz · Nov 21, 2012

A few handy points mentioned, some for the notebook. You got heaters back yet Brian?

And Nick, the deed was done, and all successful

666 george · Nov 21, 2012

wickford90 said:
Might join you if my chronic back pain goes away. Did you get your motor sorted?

When it's better try stretching, back & hamstrings. It will help.

Brian S · Nov 21, 2012

Drizz said:
A few handy points mentioned, some for the notebook. You got heaters back yet Brian?

And Nick, the deed was done, and all successful

I ran it up to temp in the drive but didn't think to check the heaters.

Will try and pick up some rear pads before taking it for a run as I don't want to score the discs any more if I can help it.

wickford90 · Nov 21, 2012

James1966 said:
Let me know if you have a spare seat

Will do James, but its not looking likely at the moment

wickford90 · Nov 21, 2012

666 george said:
When it's better try stretching, back & hamstrings. It will help.

That's been part of my daily routine for a while now, but it still keeps going starting to give me the hump now.

Colchester seb · Nov 21, 2012

wickford90 said:
Might join you if my chronic back pain goes away. Did you get your motor sorted?

hi geoff, yeah brought some disco axles the other day im currently stripping them down fitting new seal a generally checking them over before there fitted, the old ones have a few pay and play days left in them im sure lol. you decided on suspension yet ???? let me know if you fancy essex off road and we will hook up!!!

Jongould · Nov 21, 2012

Nick, headlights... I have been looking into this, sealed beams are still available however I suspect yours will be like mine and missing the rubber caps, you can get them on eBay:

Rubber Bulb Cover H4 7" headlight Defender 90/110 Tdi | eBay

This should stop the lights filling up with water and is cheap. I am struggling to get sealed beams trade as no one really does them, there are some online but most are not actual sealed beams but conversions, even some of the ones advertised as sealed beams so if thats the route you choose be carefull...

Seb, might be interested on sunday, I have got me exhaust fixed and my headlights done, I am waiting on a paddocks order now though with some new goodies so hopefully they will turn up and I can get mine back on the road...

Jongould · Nov 21, 2012

Colchester seb said:
hi geoff, yeah brought some disco axles the other day im currently stripping them down fitting new seal a generally checking them over before there fitted, the old ones have a few pay and play days left in them im sure lol. you decided on suspension yet ???? let me know if you fancy essex off road and we will hook up!!!

300tdi axles im presuming? If your fitting all new bits make sure you use genuine seals on the wheel bearings and diffs, all the cheaper ones are crap and will leak. Is your current diff still whining? I would be interested to see what it is, I still think its the crown wheel rubbing...

Colchester seb · Nov 21, 2012

Jongould said:
300tdi axles im presuming? If your fitting all new bits make sure you use genuine seals on the wheel bearings and diffs, all the cheaper ones are crap and will leak. Is your current diff still whining? I would be interested to see what it is, I still think its the crown wheel rubbing...

hey jon, hasent made a sound since wales so i brought some axles anyway as they seemed cheap at the time and stronger plus rear disks

i will get some genuine seal from rst then, and if your up for sunday that would be cool to hook up, dont mind a bit of lanning ether if that is more up peoples street ??????????

wangie46 · Nov 21, 2012

Colchester seb said:
hey jon, hasent made a sound since wales so i brought some axles anyway as they seemed cheap at the time and stronger plus rear disks i will get some genuine seal from rst then, and if your up for sunday that would be cool to hook up, dont mind a bit of lanning ether if that is more up peoples street ??????????

Depending on family commitments I might be able to make it out with ya on Sunday

Geof I know what ya mean about back ache, it took me an hour to get out of bed this morning

but I think that is to do with the cold weather and me metal plates in me hip it's not nice though and driving me nuts

Drizz · Nov 21, 2012

Rear diff front seal (behind the prop flange) are they the same on all models does anyone know? I have 300tdi axles and fitting a 200tdi prop and the seals leaking so need to do that too.

Jongould · Nov 21, 2012

Drizz said:
Rear diff front seal (behind the prop flange) are they the same on all models does anyone know? I have 300tdi axles and fitting a 200tdi prop and the seals leaking so need to do that too.

Yep, but you need to fit the 200TDi flange to the 300TDi diff so that it will still take the 4 bolt prop. Use genuine seals as well, not cheap crap ones as they are all pants!

Drizz · Nov 21, 2012

Lol yes I know I have to change the flange. That's the point of doing it lol
But thanks anyway

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