Engine/Trans removal Toyota 4wd

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LarryB

Guest
Has anyone pulled the engine and transmission together out of a Toyo
4wd truck or 4runner with a cherry picker?

I've got a 91 Toyota 4wd pickup 22RE engine and 5 speed trans. The
shop manual says to pull them together. The combined length of the
unit looks to be about 4.5 to 5 feet. It might be too high to lift
with a cherry picker.

Harbor Freight has a 2 ton cherry picker that lifts 117", and I was
thinking that might do the trick. Any suggestions?

Thanks
 

"LarryB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Has anyone pulled the engine and transmission together out of a Toyo
> 4wd truck or 4runner with a cherry picker?
>
> I've got a 91 Toyota 4wd pickup 22RE engine and 5 speed trans. The
> shop manual says to pull them together. The combined length of the
> unit looks to be about 4.5 to 5 feet. It might be too high to lift
> with a cherry picker.
>
> Harbor Freight has a 2 ton cherry picker that lifts 117", and I was
> thinking that might do the trick. Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks

You might consider cutting the top of the radiator support out. I have done
this with a few cars. Makes getting the engine w/trans out much easier. Weld
the piece back in after the engine/trans is back in place.

Chas Hurst


 

LarryB wrote:

> Has anyone pulled the engine and transmission together out of a Toyo
> 4wd truck or 4runner with a cherry picker?

Yes. 3V-ZE, 22-R, and RE.

> unit looks to be about 4.5 to 5 feet. It might be too high to lift
> with a cherry picker.

If you're using a basic garage-size cherrypicker, you'll want to:
remove the wheels and lower the vehicle onto wooden blocks. No kidding.
You'll find it is a lot easier that way, both with the cherry picker
and for you.

Otherwise, an overhead beam in a shop or barn, and a chain hoist, works
quite well. Remove the hood.

good luck!
GTr
- -
http://www.preservestoughton.org/

 
gregory trimper <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> LarryB wrote:
>
> > Has anyone pulled the engine and transmission together out of a Toyo
> > 4wd truck or 4runner with a cherry picker?
>
> Yes. 3V-ZE, 22-R, and RE.
>
> > unit looks to be about 4.5 to 5 feet. It might be too high to lift
> > with a cherry picker.
>
> If you're using a basic garage-size cherrypicker, you'll want to:
> remove the wheels and lower the vehicle onto wooden blocks. No kidding.
> You'll find it is a lot easier that way, both with the cherry picker
> and for you.
>
> Otherwise, an overhead beam in a shop or barn, and a chain hoist, works
> quite well. Remove the hood.
>
> good luck!
> GTr
> - -
> http://www.preservestoughton.org/

If I put the front end on blocks it looks like I only lower it 8 or 9
inches. Is it more the angle of the lowered truck that helps? If it
is, it seems like driving the back wheels on to ramps may help also. I
only have access to a cherry picker.

Thanks for the advice.
 
i also have a 91 22re 5 speed 4x4. i did not remove engine and trans
together when i replaced my engine. i plit them and took the engine
alone. -Pete


Engine/Trans removal Toyota 4wd

Group: rec.autos.4x4 Date: Sat, Apr 3, 2004, 8:20am (EST-3) From:
[email protected] (LarryB)
Has anyone pulled the engine and transmission together out of a Toyo 4wd
truck or 4runner with a cherry picker?
I've got a 91 Toyota 4wd pickup 22RE engine and 5 speed trans. The shop
manual says to pull them together. The combined length of the unit looks
to be about 4.5 to 5 feet. It might be too high to lift with a cherry
picker.
Harbor Freight has a 2 ton cherry picker that lifts 117", and I was
thinking that might do the trick. Any suggestions?
Thanks

 

LarryB wrote:

> If I put the front end on blocks it looks like I only lower it 8 or 9
> inches. Is it more the angle of the lowered truck that helps? If it
> is, it seems like driving the back wheels on to ramps may help also. I
> only have access to a cherry picker.

The angle and the lowered height help a lot more than you would
initially think.

I don't know about putting the rear end up on ramps; though I would
encourage the use of ramps over jackstands, so it might not hurt to try.

I should have also mentioned: if you don't have fender covers, at least
use some old blankets or rugs to protect your fenders and front grill as
you're working.

good luck!
GTr
- -
http://www.preservestoughton.org/

 
Thanks for the help, if anyone else has suggestions please let me know.
 
[email protected] (LarryB) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> Thanks for the help, if anyone else has suggestions please let me know.

Funny you should ask.....

I pulled the 22r out of my son's '87 2wd last summer to access the rod
bearings. Like your manual, mine said the pull the motor and trans as
a unit. I didn't listen, pulled the motor (royal pain to get it
separated from the trans) and did the work. When it came time to lower
it back in, i worked in vain for nearly a whole day to get the two
mated back togeter. Finally gave up, pulled the trans, mated them
together outside the truck and installed them as a unit back in. Much
easier. When you read to pull it as a unit, believe it. It has to do
with the dowels between the bellhousing and the back of the engine.
Things have to be just right and I never could get that combination of
"just right".
By the way, good luck...

Charlie
 

"chestand" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> [email protected] (LarryB) wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
> > Thanks for the help, if anyone else has suggestions please let me know.
>
> Funny you should ask.....
>
> I pulled the 22r out of my son's '87 2wd last summer to access the rod
> bearings. Like your manual, mine said the pull the motor and trans as
> a unit. I didn't listen, pulled the motor (royal pain to get it
> separated from the trans) and did the work. When it came time to lower
> it back in, i worked in vain for nearly a whole day to get the two
> mated back togeter. Finally gave up, pulled the trans, mated them
> together outside the truck and installed them as a unit back in. Much
> easier. When you read to pull it as a unit, believe it. It has to do
> with the dowels between the bellhousing and the back of the engine.
> Things have to be just right and I never could get that combination of
> "just right".
> By the way, good luck...
>
> Charlie

Why did you pull the engine? I changed the rod bearings in my '86 2wd (and
piston rings - had the head off because it was cracked) with the engine in
situ. The pan comes down easily.


 
"Chas Hurst" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> "chestand" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > [email protected] (LarryB) wrote in message
> news:<[email protected]>...
> > > Thanks for the help, if anyone else has suggestions please let me know.
> >
> > Funny you should ask.....
> >
> > I pulled the 22r out of my son's '87 2wd last summer to access the rod
> > bearings. Like your manual, mine said the pull the motor and trans as
> > a unit. I didn't listen, pulled the motor (royal pain to get it
> > separated from the trans) and did the work. When it came time to lower
> > it back in, i worked in vain for nearly a whole day to get the two
> > mated back togeter. Finally gave up, pulled the trans, mated them
> > together outside the truck and installed them as a unit back in. Much
> > easier. When you read to pull it as a unit, believe it. It has to do
> > with the dowels between the bellhousing and the back of the engine.
> > Things have to be just right and I never could get that combination of
> > "just right".
> > By the way, good luck...
> >
> > Charlie
>
> Why did you pull the engine? I changed the rod bearings in my '86 2wd (and
> piston rings - had the head off because it was cracked) with the engine in
> situ. The pan comes down easily.


I pulled the engine for a number of reasons. 1. I have a gravel
driveway and don't particularly like lying on my back on the gravel
for an extended period. 2. I didn't know exactly what was causing the
horrible knock from the bottom end and I knew that if I had to pull
the crank (I did by the way), that I'd much rather do it with the
engine pulled and on a stand. And 3. I knew that with the mileage
showing (approx. 200,000) that a clutch change was in order.
P.S. - the ring gap was within factory specs - even with 200,000 miles
on the clock!
 
[email protected] (chestand) wrote in message > Funny you should ask.....
>
> I pulled the 22r out of my son's '87 2wd last summer to access the rod
> bearings. Like your manual, mine said the pull the motor and trans as
> a unit.

Thanks for the info. I am concerned about pulling them both together
because of the length of the assembly. It looks like the length of the
engine/trans/shift/transfer case is around 4 to 5 feet. The 2wd is
shorter. A standard cherry picker lifts to a height of about 72" and I
was thinking of using a balancer which would lesson that height. I
just don't know it the cherry picker will lift it up high enough.

Did you have a problem with the height or length of the assembly?

Also the motor has 177 k on it and I was thinking of replacing rod and
main bearings. I have seen rebuilding kits available with new pistons,
rings and bearings for about $200 to $300. When you replaced the rod
bearings, did you replace the pistons,main bearings and thrust
bearings? Or do you think channging pistons would be wasted?

TIA
Larry
 
LarryB wrote:

> [email protected] (chestand) wrote in message > Funny you should ask.....
>
>>I pulled the 22r out of my son's '87 2wd last summer to access the rod
>>bearings. Like your manual, mine said the pull the motor and trans as
>>a unit.
>
>
> Thanks for the info. I am concerned about pulling them both together
> because of the length of the assembly. It looks like the length of the
> engine/trans/shift/transfer case is around 4 to 5 feet. The 2wd is
> shorter. A standard cherry picker lifts to a height of about 72" and I
> was thinking of using a balancer which would lesson that height. I
> just don't know it the cherry picker will lift it up high enough.


You proabably have to pull the t-case first.
>
> Did you have a problem with the height or length of the assembly?
>
> Also the motor has 177 k on it and I was thinking of replacing rod and
> main bearings. I have seen rebuilding kits available with new pistons,
> rings and bearings for about $200 to $300. When you replaced the rod
> bearings, did you replace the pistons,main bearings and thrust
> bearings? Or do you think channging pistons would be wasted?
>
> TIA
> Lar
 
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