Engine removal

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mutsnutz

mutsnutz

Well-Known Member
Posts
1,964
Location
pink panther country
Going to replace my 2.5 Diesel engine due to a bottom end knock and a sheared bolt on crank sensor that will not come out . the question is are there any special tools needed or anything that will be a pain to get to It will prob be a like for like replacement
 
It's pretty simple - no need to remove it with gearbox(as described in RAVE).
No special tools needed.
Remove radiator, battery box, put power steering pump aside, AC compressor can be put aside too - it will be easier if you remove plastic inner wheel arches.
If it's automatic, you need to remove inlet manifold, and starter to gain access to flexplate to torque converter bolts - accesible thru starter hole. Engine wiring loom need to be disconnected under coolant reservoir, fuse box, gearbox connector around starter area and engine ECU at battery box.
 
N2O said:
It's pretty simple - no need to remove it with gearbox(as described in RAVE).
No special tools needed.
Remove radiator, battery box, put power steering pump aside, AC compressor can be put aside too - it will be easier if you remove plastic inner wheel arches.
If it's automatic, you need to remove inlet manifold, and starter to gain access to flexplate to torque converter bolts - accesible thru starter hole. Engine wiring loom need to be disconnected under coolant reservoir, fuse box, gearbox connector around starter area and engine ECU at battery box.
Click to expand...

Unless you count and engine crane as a special tool. :D:D
 
Grrrrrr said:
Ow!
Click to expand...

Yeh thats why she wer only 400 quid with 10 months mot haha. New (2nd hand box for the bell housing) new flex plate and spacer. Had to have a engine bolt way rewelded used high tensile bolt and nut didnt want to change the block as she was a 30k engine at the time... not too bad a job actually. 9hrs ish on a mission haha thankfully being coil sprung i didnt even need the motor jacked up apart from spinning propshafts to undo them
 
N2O said:
It's pretty simple - no need to remove it with gearbox(as described in RAVE).
No special tools needed.
Remove radiator, battery box, put power steering pump aside, AC compressor can be put aside too - it will be easier if you remove plastic inner wheel arches.
If it's automatic, you need to remove inlet manifold, and starter to gain access to flexplate to torque converter bolts - accesible thru starter hole. Engine wiring loom need to be disconnected under coolant reservoir, fuse box, gearbox connector around starter area and engine ECU at battery box.
Click to expand...

Mine i had to remove starter but there's a rubber bung once the exhaust down pipe is removed. You can get a socket straight on the Flex plate to t/c bolts. It was easier to get on them then through starter hole. no need to remove inlet. Mines a 96.
 
Grrrrrr said:
9 hours is a fine effort.

Pity about the springs of course ... ;)
Click to expand...

Half 10am got her into the barn after being sat for 4months. 720pm on the 14th of January she drove out.

Shame about the springs But until they let me down she can stay on them.
 
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