Engine Disabled and wont accept the EKA code.

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landlockedpirate

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Hi, I have been around this forum for a few years and got lots of useful information by searching, but my latest problem is really causing me headaches.

I have a 2001 P38 DHSE. Its been behaving for well over a year now :) , until Friday night when it decided it wouldn't start. Car had been driven 10 minutes previously, battery is new and wasnt flat.

A little history, the remote controls haven't worked for years, so I just lock and unlock it with the key. Last week I jumped back in to get the 'engine immobilised' message. Tryed to enter the EKA but car still immobilised and after 3 attempts the car went into keycode lockout. I waited the usual 30 minutes and the same thing happened again. I know im using the correct code because its worked before.

I took the door card off and found it quite damp in there and the door lock was actually wet. As a result I fitted a replacement door lock. Unfortunately this didnt solve the problem.

So my question, what next ? Has the BECM thrown another hissy fit ? any advice gratefully received.

Cheers
 
Hi, I have been around this forum for a few years and got lots of useful information by searching, but my latest problem is really causing me headaches.

I have a 2001 P38 DHSE. Its been behaving for well over a year now :) , until Friday night when it decided it wouldn't start. Car had been driven 10 minutes previously, battery is new and wasnt flat.

A little history, the remote controls haven't worked for years, so I just lock and unlock it with the key. Last week I jumped back in to get the 'engine immobilised' message. Tryed to enter the EKA but car still immobilised and after 3 attempts the car went into keycode lockout. I waited the usual 30 minutes and the same thing happened again. I know im using the correct code because its worked before.

I took the door card off and found it quite damp in there and the door lock was actually wet. As a result I fitted a replacement door lock. Unfortunately this didnt solve the problem.

So my question, what next ? Has the BECM thrown another hissy fit ? any advice gratefully received.

Cheers

Don't try it three times, try twice only, then open and close door for three more tries.
 
There's another couple of connectors inside the door jamb which I've found to get a bit green too. If you pull the rubber cable cover (between door and body) out from the body side there are connectors inside the body up there too. I had a look at one P38 and there was some corrosion on one of the pins which meant the out station communications to the BECM were intermittent - sometimes the key would work, sometimes it wouldn't.

Its something else easy (and free) to check. Did you buy a new door latch, or a second hand one?

Cheers,
Marty
 
Just thought I would update this thread.

After going through all the suggestions (and those brought up on a forum search as well) I reluctantly came to the conclusion that the BeCM had locked me out and would need to come out for a touch of 'brain' surgery.

Spoke to Callrova in Brighton who agreed with the diagnosis and told me to send him the BeCM, ECU and key.

Removal of the BeCM and ECU was easy and took about an hour altogether, it would have been quicker but difficulties caused by lack of access since only drivers door would open. I packaged it all up and sent off to Brighton.

Got a call 2 days later telling me there were 14 issues with the BeCM (I have no idea how it was running at all ?!? ) but it was all fixed now. Everything arrived back and after an hour or so the car was back together and it fired up first time :)

Would recommend Callrova, service was great and I think he is about the cheapest as well.
 
Just thought I would update this thread.

After going through all the suggestions (and those brought up on a forum search as well) I reluctantly came to the conclusion that the BeCM had locked me out and would need to come out for a touch of 'brain' surgery.

Spoke to Callrova in Brighton who agreed with the diagnosis and told me to send him the BeCM, ECU and key.

Removal of the BeCM and ECU was easy and took about an hour altogether, it would have been quicker but difficulties caused by lack of access since only drivers door would open. I packaged it all up and sent off to Brighton.

Got a call 2 days later telling me there were 14 issues with the BeCM (I have no idea how it was running at all ?!? ) but it was all fixed now. Everything arrived back and after an hour or so the car was back together and it fired up first time :)

Would recommend Callrova, service was great and I think he is about the cheapest as well.

Can you give us an idea on price?

Cheers.
 
Price was £225 including return postage. Callrova were very upfront, its a fixed price regardless of number of faults repaired, expensive if you only have 1 problem but very good value (IMHO) if you have a lot like mine.

He spent most of Saturday working on mine including testing it in his own P38 test car. Very pleased that he appears to have stopped the current drain issue as well that the car has had for the last couple of years.
 
Callrova is Rick-the-Pick here on LZ. When it comes to BECM issues he is regarded as god and I've never heard a bad word spoken about him and his work.
 
Thanks chaps. I appreciate all your kind words.

I remember your becm. It took me all day saturday, & we have specialist test vehicles that everything gets tested on once we have performed our magic.

Some becm's are easy, 3 or 4 components, your's had 14 replaced, & getting that battery drain down to a static 0.02ma was tricky.
 
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