EDC Injection pump replacement.

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Possibly diesel knock but it sounds more like metal on metal contact to me.

Think I shall do head off for further investigations later in the week. Anyway I can tell if the head has been skimmed before so as I know which gasket to put it back together with?

I had the college I trained at do some investigations for me so that I had an independent evidence as to the engines condition and they did the compression test and they said they were doing a leak off test as well. If the results were bad id have thought they would have said but I will check with them if they did the test and what the results were.
 
If your lift pump is Britpart,are you sure it is working?I would fit a Delphi for peace of mind-only around £20.Your lousy performance could be due to injection pump having to pull fuel from tank and doing all the work.A working lift pump transforms a 300 tdi in my experience.I have had Britpart pumps fail in days,but I do run bio.
If you have the sedimenter still fitted,what state is it in.
Try running direct from a bottle of diesel under the bonnet-any difference?(with Delphi lift of course)
 
Have you got any further with this?

I think it might be worth you reading the "have I bought a pup thread" and taking the supplying dealer to task over it.
 
Haven't got any further as snowed under with work and uni. Ive got 3000 words to write by Monday and a clutch change so can't see anything getting done before then.

As to taking the dealer to task I spoke to trading standards and unfortunatly there is nothing I can do, apparently the dealer is well known to them and knows all the tricks to get out of trouble in court and id be unlikely to get anywhere.
 
WOO a lot has gone on sine i have been away, right heres my 2p worth, as from the start you've worked through it, i have a EDC disco that got dropped on me the ex owner said "engines dead" used easy start and yes it sounded a bit like yours in the video with a heavy metallic top end knock,

LOng story short, check your pump timing undo the 3 10mm and advance it fully clockwise sigten the 10mm back up and see how it goes, then work back from that a smudge at a time, like not even the amount a second hand moves on a clock thats all you need to move it each time. I am pretty sure its timing mate the knock could also be the vacuum pump or a blowing head or exhaust manifold gasket they can have a heavy tick that sounds like metal contact.

If you compressions are all the same and you're not producing plooms of smoke and no oil pressure light on , then i suspect the engine is sound dip the oil and look for a fine metallic glitter in the oil a slight silvering this would be present if the engine was eating itself

As for the sound and the vid yep thats bad, my auto goes pretty well and if that was mine on that vid it would be doing around 90mph by the end of it and you can here the engine with a misfire but its across all cylinders i would say the timing is too advanced, let me know how you get on

Valve clearances 0,20 cold
 
pauldaf44 said:
Haven't got any further as snowed under with work and uni. Ive got 3000 words to write by Monday and a clutch change so can't see anything getting done before then.

As to taking the dealer to task I spoke to trading standards and unfortunatly there is nothing I can do, apparently the dealer is well known to them and knows all the tricks to get out of trouble in court and id be unlikely to get anywhere.
Click to expand...

Wonder what'd happen if you sign wrote the vehicle with "X motors sold me a dodgy car with a warranty not worth a carrot" and parked it in front of their showroom?

Kicking up a stink when they've got a customer dealing up has worked for me in the past...
 
All I say with regards to the seller is that is was Land Rover Makeovers and they are advertising through ebay.

Seeing as I can do nothing about the money ive lost buying the car im just going to put it behind me and try and do something with the car.

Re the timing its been checked and reset twice now using LR crank locking tools and timing pins so it should be right.
 
So you've set the belt timing with the locking pins, but have you set the pump timing?
Can any body on here advise him on the pump timing sequence?
Looking at the you tube vid tells me the pump needs timing, it's flat as a fart.
 
followed the instructions for checking and setting the injection timing in the manual when fitting the new pump. Which i'll copy and paste here.

25. Attach pump to bracket and finger tighten nuts
and bolts
26. First tighten bolts securing bracket to block and
then bolts securing pump to bracket.
27. Connect spill return, main fuel pipes. Tighten to
25 Nm.
28. Connect boost signal pipe and secure with banjo
bolts. Tighten to 10 Nm.
29. Connect stop control solenoid lead.
30. Connect throttle cable and where applicable
hand throttle cable.
31. Remove special tool LRT-12-045.
32. Fit gear lock plate.
33. Fit pin from special tool LRT-12-045.
34. Secure gear with bolts.
35. Remove special tool pin.
36. Turn crankshaft two complete revolutions, check
timing pin from LRT-12-045 can be fully and
easily inserted into the pump. At the same time
check flywheel timing pin LST-12-044 can also
be inserted in the flywheel slot.
37. If, with the flywheel timing pin located, the timing
pin cannot be inserted cleanly into the injection
pump, carry out the following:
(a) Ensure flywheel timing pin is disengaged
from slot in flywheel.
(b) Turn the crankshaft the small amount
necessary to enable the timing pin to be
inserted into the pump.
(c) Loosen the three pump gear retaining
bolts.
(d) Turn the crankshaft to T.D.C..
(e) Check that the timing pin is an easy fit in
the pump and that the flywheel timing pin
locates.
(f) Tighten the pump gear retaining bolts to
the correct torque.
(g) Remove the timing pin from the pump and
the timing tool from the flywheel housing.
 
setting the timing by the book is fine as long as the flange has not been removed from the pump to change the shaft seal, there is no key so its not easy to get it back in the correct place.

To be sure i think i would send the pump to a specialist such as diesel bob, so you can be sure it is/is not a pump issue.
 
Ok, you've got it to this point. Tell me if this is right. On the front of your pump you have the large centre nut about 24mm, and then there is 3 small nuts or bolts about 13mm. Is this right?
 
Ian46 said:
Ok, you've got it to this point. Tell me if this is right. On the front of your pump you have the large centre nut about 24mm, and then there is 3 small nuts or bolts about 13mm. Is this right?
Click to expand...

Yep 24mm nut on pump shaft and 3 13mm bolts spaced around it.
 
The last time I had this problem I slackened the 3 small bolts and turned the large 24mm nut with a spanner just a few degrees clockwise. You don't need to take the belt off or any thing like that. Move it a bit at a time and when you've moved it tighten them back up and try up the road again. If it gets worse moving it clockwise, then turn it anti-clockwise.
But in my opinion you are only a few degrees from getting it right.
 
yes mate thats the BELT timing you described there, you MUST now set the PUMP timing, what you have done there is generic and it would probably be ok for a mechanical pump but for a EDC it needs to be cock on mate and this takes usually a few goes.

Take off small timing cover plate or air con belt adjuster just in front of the pump on the timing case

slacken the 3 10mm just a smudge

put a socket on the big nut in the middle and turn it fully clockwise it will stop

tighten 10mm back up

depending on if you have a air con belt adjuster or not put it back on if its just a plate leave it off

take it for a run you will tell immediately if you getting some were.

do above procedure again working anti clockwise a fanny's hair until you hit the sweet spot between it starting first revolution and having power

This is a fine art people just go for the easy starting i like to balance mine as just around there is the sweet power spot.
 
Yeah, the belt is for the engine timing and then you have to adjust the pump for the pump timing like I mentioned yesterday.
remedave, aren't the bolts 13mm on the pump flange?
 
Err … pretty sure there 10mm but hey won't arguer over 2mm:)

Landrover were only built using mainly 10mm they should have been 13mm, but that would have took the fun out of it all those 10mm that round and snap because the numpty before you used a star socket or tightened them back up with the same torque you would use for a cylinder head bolt,

I know a edc that only running around with 2 bolts in because some tool sheared one :mad: so go canny
 
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