P38A EAS - what else ?

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Pression de Gonflage said:
Tried leaving the door open for 30 mins. Compressor got hot but nothing else happened.

Presumably Monsieur Renault would be able to attach his airline c/w pressure gauge to the tank feed. Would a leak from one of the individual airbag feeds give the result of no pressure to any of them or would the valve block isolate it and inflate the other three ? I am anticipating discussing the options with M. Renault who of course speaks no English, and definitely no Rangeroverspeak, so it's very much a matter of the blind leading the blind, with much of the EAS jargon being outside normal French vocabulary , his and mine !
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Can you not get it to Monsieur @Mark Piercy and cross his palm with low grade cyder? The stuff you strip industrial acrylic paint off bridges is his usual tipple (before breakfast) unless I am mixing him up with another member.
 
Pression de Gonflage said:
What diaphragm and where ?
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Remove the little exhaust filter from the eas block and hold a wet soapy finger over the hole with the compressor running and connected to the block. You shouldn't be able to have any air/bubbles coming out of it at all. The only time air comes out is when the compressor has filled the tank or the suspension is adjusting/lowering down. If you have air coming any other time then the diaphragm (thanks @RangeRoller dt ) in that part of the eas block has split/perished/failed.
 
Mark Piercy said:
Remove the little exhaust filter from the eas block and hold a wet soapy finger over the hole with the compressor running and connected to the block. You shouldn't be able to have any air/bubbles coming out of it at all. The only time air comes out is when the compressor has filled the tank or the suspension is adjusting/lowering down. If you have air coming any other time then the diaphragm (thanks @RangeRoller dt ) in that part of the eas block has split/perished/failed.
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Great work young Jedi ;)
 
Richdove said:
The guys in this thread will remember the 35mph fault I had a few months ago. Turned out to be a blown fuse 40 (main fuse box behind the battery). The reason it blew was a fried alarm sounder but it’s worth checking fuse 40 as it’s a 2 minute job.
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That's a good shout. ;)
 
Richdove said:
The guys in this thread will remember the 35mph fault I had a few months ago. Turned out to be a blown fuse 40 (main fuse box behind the battery). The reason it blew was a fried alarm sounder but it’s worth checking fuse 40 as it’s a 2 minute job.
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Only on the later cars. On early cars the EAS compressor is on the same fuse as the starter motor so if the compressor seizes and blows a fuse you cannot start the car!
 
tomcat59alan said:
V

You mean you don't do a mobile service??:rolleyes::)
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Not this week matey, it's the big off roading weekend coming Friday until Monday next. Just finished a 71 Vw camper electric steering column conversion and next up is a disco 2 complete clutch.. A bit pushed for time this week.. Mobile service for a 6hr round trip... That would be a payer wouldn't it:p:eek:
 
Mark Piercy said:
Not this week matey, it's the big off roading weekend coming Friday until Monday next. Just finished a 71 Vw camper electric steering column conversion and next up is a disco 2 complete clutch.. A bit pushed for time this week.. Mobile service for a 6hr round trip... That would be a payer wouldn't it:p:eek:
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Oddly enough, I have just been looking at ex-services Unimog ambulances and thinking they'd make an awesome camper, albeit a tad thirsty.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Oddly enough, I have just been looking at ex-services Unimog ambulances and thinking they'd make an awesome camper, albeit a tad thirsty.
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A mate bought an ex airport crash tender which was based on the Saladin 6x6 armoured vehicle.He took the RR petrol engine out and put a RR Eagle diesel in.His intention was to build a motorhome body on the chassis. Don't know if he ever got round to it,he had so many "projects". He sold the engine to a developing African nation as a spare .
 
Grrrrrr said:
Oddly enough, I have just been looking at ex-services Unimog ambulances and thinking they'd make an awesome camper, albeit a tad thirsty.
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They are the next "big" thing in overlanding in the states as well. There are a few companies who build them up 20yr old machines. Mega money :cool:
 
Thank you Pete.

There is much to be said for first principles:

.
pwood999 said:
First step is back to basic checks:
  1. Remove the exhaust silencer from valve block (not the pump inlet filter). DONE
  2. Start the car with drivers door open (this stops the ECU trying to adjust).DONE
    • Pump should start on it's own unless:- PUMP STARTS (good pressure, as measured by the No.1 digit)
      • Tank is actually full, so pump doesn't run.
      • Thermal switch is bad, so ECU does not run the pump.
      • Pump relay faulty.
  3. Check there is no air coming out of exhaust port. NO AIR AT EXHAUST PORT - soapy digit.
    • If there is air leaking, then Diaphragm valve is not working or leaking.
    • Diaphragm solenoid is powered by pump relay, so should engage when pump runs
  4. Check the pump is actually trying to fill the tank.
    • Easy way is to remove the tank feed from the valve block and check for air-flow. If yes, then refit the tank airline. COULD SOMEONE PLEASE REMIND WHICH PIPE IS THE TANK FEED ? Mine are number but all blue. On the subject of removing pipes, is there an approved method of pulling 'em out and indeed shoving 'em back. I have done this a few times on the valve block but always with a blunt screwdriver and some trepidation in case I damaged the pipe or don't push it in sufficiently.
    • If not then valve bock NRV-1 might be wrong way round. New (recon) valve block but I suppose mistakes do happen. Is the NVR readily accessible ?
  5. Now wait for 10mins with door open for the pump to fill the tank. It should stop when the tank exceeds 130psi.
  6. After pump stops, close the doors and the rear should rise first followed by fronts. Pump didn't stop after 30 mins with door open. Closed door - Nuttin' !
Do all the above, and report back your findings. Once you get the car rising, then the rest of the system can be checked for air leaks.
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Hope this annotation is an acceptable way to respond. Anyway, no further findings to report. All seems to indicate to this beginner that I have a leak somewhere down below..

Seems that my Nom de Plume, which I adopted a lot of years ago, has come back to bite me. For non-French speakers, I have no doubt that many other members will leap to explain ...and rub my nose in it.
 
Yes inline replies are excellent & easy to understand.

So if the pump never stops for 30mins then it's either not building pressure or pressure switch is faulty. If it was the switch, there would be enough air to raise the car so that scenario is unlikely.

Attached is the valve block physical diagram. The 6mm pipe nearest the front of the car is the Tank feed. I also use a blunt screwdriver to remove airlines, but do it carefully in case there's pressure in there. When re-fitting you should feel two definite points as the pipe goes into the o-rings. Lubricate with a bit of spit - not grease.

With the tank pipe removed, if the pump is running you should get similar pressure to what you felt on the pump outlet pipe, i.e. the air should blow past your finger. If you have good air out of the pump, but none on the tank feed, then either NRV-1 is wrong way round, or Dryer is blocked.

If there's good pressure out of the port, then either the pipe has a split under the car, or tank is leaking.
 

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