P38A Eas symptoms..

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Right, i paper clipped the pressure switch.
Car running.
When the probes are connected (compressor running) with the probes for example red to left and black to right just for reference. The meter reads 750 on the continuity setting.
If i swap the probes red right, black left the compressor stops immediately and wont come back on.
But by cancelling the compressor the height is still adjusting up and down regardless.
 
Mark Piercy said:
Right, i paper clipped the pressure switch.
Car running.
When the probes are connected (compressor running) with the probes for example red to left and black to right just for reference. The meter reads 750 on the continuity setting.
If i swap the probes red right, black left the compressor stops immediately and wont come back on.
But by cancelling the compressor the height is still adjusting up and down regardless.
Click to expand...

Try changing the driver pack and see if anything improves. It could be that the one you have fitted is playing with the ECU.
 
wammers said:
Try changing the driver pack and see if anything improves. It could be that the one you have fitted is playing with the ECU.
Click to expand...
Thats on the list.
Recap, the connectors behind the pass' kick panel are good and dry. (Done last year along with the seals above it).
I swapped two front sensors yesterday with two known smooth ones. Now, i should have recalibrated these?
Dumb question alert!!!!
 
Mark Piercy said:
Thats on the list.
Recap, the connectors behind the pass' kick panel are good and dry. (Done last year along with the seals above it).
I swapped two front sensors yesterday with two known smooth ones. Now, i should have recalibrated these?
Dumb question alert!!!!
Click to expand...

Yes you should have you are a lucky lad if they are the same as the old ones. Set within two bits side to side.
 
wammers said:
Yes you should have you are a lucky lad if they are the same as the old ones. Set within two bits side to side.
Click to expand...
Ok, thank you.
Biggest dumb question coming. (At the risk of looking totally stupid in front of my peers)...
Depression, ADD and a bad memory dont bode so well either... Here goes and correct me if im wrong because i i nev seem to get a result from doing this..

Calibration.
Rws software.
Goto calibrate page.
Put the car on the block for normal height.
And this is where im going wrong...
 
Mark Piercy said:
Ok, thank you.
Biggest dumb question coming. (At the risk of looking totally stupid in front of my peers)...
Depression, ADD and a bad memory dont bode so well either... Here goes and correct me if im wrong because i i nev seem to get a result from doing this..

Calibration.
Rws software.
Goto calibrate page.
Put the car on the block for normal height.
And this is where im going wrong...
Click to expand...

Front must be within two bits side to side. When Wand Wover do this at the factorium they set on blocks then flex the connecting rods until within two bits side to side. Easy peasy lemon queezy. If you are setting it without blocks the measurement from centre of wheel to wheel arch can be plus or minus 7 mm to achieve this.
 
+1 there Wammers. My drive is at 20degrees and once my putty brain realised it's the block heights that calibrate the sensors then I just cracked on and calibrated. The short ones do get stuck in the bump stops though ;):)
 
I cant seem to explain....
So i put it in the blocks.
105 rear and 100 front.
If the write section of the calibrate page says
FL 113
FR 117
RL 103
RR 100.
do i correct those reading with what is exactly written on the blocks and then "write" to commit?
Am i correcting it or agreeing with it....this is my d**khead moment....
 
Mark Piercy said:
I cant seem to explain....
So i put it in the blocks.
105 rear and 100 front.
If the write section of the calibrate page says
FL 113
FR 117
RL 103
RR 100.
do i correct those reading with what is exactly written on the blocks and then "write" to commit?
Am i correcting it or agreeing with it....this is my d**khead moment....
Click to expand...

Rear being a little different does not matter but ideally you want the fronts within 2 beats side to side. Yours is within four so try it. But the fronts being vastly different causes the apparent dance when the car gets to less than 1 mph. And the front valves open to equalise pressure across the axle.
 
wammers said:
Rear being a little different does not matter but ideally you want the fronts within 2 beats side to side. Yours is within four so try it. But the fronts being vastly different causes the apparent dance when the car gets to less than 1 mph. And the front valves open to equalise pressure across the axle.
Click to expand...
Ive done this before, quite few times and the result is allways the same... Ill try it again with the other set of sensors and see if it works
Please help me with this bit also,
When i have put the blocks in, what do i do next... It looks dumb when written down but this is really frustrating for me..:(
 
Mark Piercy said:
Ive done this before, quite few times and the result is allways the same... Ill try it again with the other set of sensors and see if it works
Please help me with this bit also,
When i have put the blocks in, what do i do next... It looks dumb when written down but this is really frustrating for me..:(
Click to expand...

Drop the car onto the blocks and take readings, note them, then write them to ECU. If you ever change settings on EAS ALWAYS make a note of previous settings. If you enter a setting outside the set parameters for that height the ECU will return to it's preset and you will have to start again.
 
wammers said:
Drop the car onto the blocks and take readings, note them, then write them to ECU. If you ever change settings on EAS ALWAYS make a note of previous settings. If you enter a setting outside the set parameters for that height the ECU will return to it's preset and you will have to start again.
Click to expand...
Thanks Tony,
Just done exactly that. Unfortunately it hasn't worked....
Fùck....
 
New settings are..
FL 112
FR 111
RL 105
RR 105.
The behaviour is exactly the same as before...so i still have to swap the driver pack.
Cjecked around the suspension ecu and not a drop of condensation and it looks all nice and new down there..
 
wammers said:
Is the height selector switch showing height changes or is it just up and down like a brides nighty?
Click to expand...
Showing height changes?
All i get is the write section and the read section of the calibrate page are always the same when looking at the standard height section for example. Even after i put the blocks in i had no difference in previous or present.
Now im presuming i dont run the car at the same time as the diagnostic suit?
 
No height changes show up unless i change it and then write them?? Itll move when i change the height numbers. Can be checked and avarified with a tape measure.
 
Mark Piercy said:
No height changes show up unless i change it and then write them?? Itll move when i change the height numbers. Can be checked and avarified with a tape measure.
Click to expand...

If it's just pleasing itself and going up and down maybe the driver pack is the next to try can't be a lot else if as you say it doesn't drop parked..
 
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