EAS- problems

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SYSTEM CALIBRATION​
In an effort to adjust for variations between sensors and their locations on the chassis, it is
necessary to calibrate the system. Unlike Classic, this vehicle calibrates the chassis to the
axles. Special blocks (LRT-60-003), which place the chassis at a known height above the
axles where the corresponding sensor bit counts are recorded, accomplish this.
It may be necessary at times to select the vehicle model as Range Rover Classic to enable
direct access to air suspension main menu. This is very useful when difficulties are
experienced when trying to clear a Corrupt Sensor Data fault message. However, do not
attempt to calibrate a late model Range Rover using a Classic routine. Refer to
TIB 60/02/94/US.
At the start of the routine, all existing sensor values are overwritten with known default
values. This way a consistent starting point is used for all vehicles. If the calibration routine is
not successfully completed, the system will set a fault message for Corrupt Sensor Data.
This means that the system is operating with default sensor data. This message can only be
cleared by successfully completing a calibration. During the calibration routine both the
pressure switch and the thermal switch are ignored. Complete the routine as quickly as
possible in order to avoid potential compressor damage. When calibration is complete, there
should be 100 ±4mm (4.0 ± .2 in.) between the front bump stop stud and the front axle pad,​
while the rear, measured similarly, should be 105 ±4mm (4.2± .2 in.) standard ride height.

From service sheets to help your calibration. Text refers to use of Testbook, so some is not relivent if you are using EASunlock. Hope it helps.
 
Hello,
I think, the Special blocks (LRT-60-003) are also for an P 38.
I drive an P38 built 2000.

Regards
Range0815
 
Range0815 said:
Hello,
I think, the Special blocks (LRT-60-003) are also for an P 38.
I drive an P38 built 2000.

Regards
Range0815
Click to expand...

Yes they are for P38. I did say some of text refered to TESTBOOK and was not relivent. Ignore any reference to The Classic RR that was only for use with testbook.
 
wammers said:
Sorry but it is not possible. With compressor running as you say, the EAS can only go UP it CANNOT go down. Which it would need to do to cause dancing. No exhausting of air is possible when compressor is running because the reverse flow back through drier contains high pressure air. To get the front end dancing both front corner valves would need to be open and the inlet and exhaust valves would need to be cycling. One would ask how air finds it's way into front bags as you say and not the rear ones as all are fed from the same gallery. NRV 1 controls one thing only, it locks high pressure air in the tank. If that fails there can be no tank pressure. Failure of this valve cannot cause dancing. NRV 2 in front of the inlet valve controls directional flow into pressure gallery via inlet valve. It's purpose is to prevent air back flowing into tank (if tank is empty) from partially pressurised bags when inlet valves and bag valves open to raise suspension. Failure of this valve cannot cause dancing. NRV 3 seals exhaust valve from high pressue air when pump is running and also controls flow of exhausted air back through drier to blow any water contamination out to atmosphere. Failure of this valve and a leaking exhaust valve would cause high pressure air to be admitted to main gallery. IF any of the corner valves were open it would cause the suspension to rise, but it cannot fall because there is no exhaust path. As this is closed when compressor is running by diaphragm solenoid valve applying pressure to lower diaphragm forcing it against exhaust outlet allowing pressurising of tank.Therefore failure of this valve cannot cause dancing. I suggest you study the schematic diagram on page 7 of Rave EAS.
Click to expand...

I can only agree with your logic after looking at the EAS diagram.Still it happens and has been cured by stopping the NRV,s leak back.
Prehaps the diagram is a simplified representation and not the actual internals of the block.
i have read the EAS bulletin you posted.Very interesting,but it does not cover the dancing generally being referred to.as it continues for much longer than three seconds.Also if you lock the EAS in highway mode(used as a test) then the same happened and I presume the valves were not opened when moving from P as the EAS normal height light did not illuminate.
It is all very interesting with RR,s ,as you certainly cannot ever stop learning something new:confused:
 
JohnP38 said:
I can only agree with your logic after looking at the EAS diagram.Still it happens and has been cured by stopping the NRV,s leak back.
Prehaps the diagram is a simplified representation and not the actual internals of the block.
i have read the EAS bulletin you posted.Very interesting,but it does not cover the dancing generally being referred to.as it continues for much longer than three seconds.Also if you lock the EAS in highway mode(used as a test) then the same happened and I presume the valves were not opened when moving from P as the EAS normal height light did not illuminate.
It is all very interesting with RR,s ,as you certainly cannot ever stop learning something new:confused:
Click to expand...

It is a good one no doubt. But the only NRV that can possibly cause a problem in this respect is NRV 3, the one fitted after the exhaust valve. But only if the exhaust valve is also leaking making the vehicle rise, it cannot cause it to drop. I think it is far more likely to be caused by a bad sensor or connection on the multi plug. Which is unintentionally rectified by stripping the block to replace the O' rings rather than the O' rings themselves. O' rings do leak but surely not to the massive extent needed to give a dancing motion. Unless they have split or are no longer in place. When replacing NRV O' rings attention must be paid to the conical guide nose on the valve making sure there are no flats or lips worn into it which could cause it to lip on the valve seat.
 
Last edited:
Let us take this to a conclusion using a bit of logic. NO exhausting of air (which would be needed to cause the suspension to go up and down) can take place with the compressor running. So the dancing MUST take place with compressor OFF. With the compressor OFF all pressurised air between NRV 1 and NRV 3 and the compressor has been vented to atmosphere to give an exhaust path by the closing of the diaphragm solenoid valve. Providing NRV 1 is holding air the NRVs are totally irrelivant and can be discounted. The only place pressurised air can come from is through the inlet valve. So the dancing MUST be caused by the inlet and exhaust valves being opened and closed in rapid succession causing the vehicle to rise and fall to give the dancing effect. Why would this happen is the $64,000,000 question. Something is telling the ECU it is too high then too low. The driver pack could be a culprit but normally that is a slave of the ECU, just as the valve block is a slave of the driver pack. So there could be a few reasons. But my favourite senario is that because people have stripped the block, changed O'rings in block and NRVs and maybe found a duff NRV O'ring, then the dancing has stopped. They percieve that was the cause. I think it is clear from the above that NRVs cannot cause this problem, others yes, this one no. So maybe unplugging the multiplug and reconnecting it has cured a bad connection. Bad connections on P38s are always worth a punt.

PS People have also claimed to cure this with a driver pack. Was it the driver pack. Or just the act of plugging it in that cured the problem?
 
Last edited:
Hello,
it is an very interesting thread!

Today morning the Range was from the standardlevel, 4 cm down at all 4 bumpers! I put the car yesterday afternoon with warm airbumpers (standardlevel) in the garage.
I'm shure, that my eas- system has no leak. Between the valveblock and the airline to the left rear bumper i took an airgauge to control the pressure.
Also i put an stopcock between the valveblock and the airtank, so that no air goes over night back from the airtank to the valveblock, because the eas- system every 6 hours will control the levels!
Yesterday i had have 60 psi- today morning also 60 psi- and the range is now 4 cm lower. WHY???
On the picture you can see what i do.
Could it be, when the air in the bumpers are cold in the morning, that that is the reason, that the car goes some cm deeper over night?
6219670iif.jpg

Regards
Range0815
 
Range0815 said:
Hello,
it is an very interesting thread!

Today morning the Range was from the standardlevel, 4 cm down at all 4 bumpers! I put the car yesterday afternoon with warm airbumpers (standardlevel) in the garage.
I'm shure, that my eas- system has no leak. Between the valveblock and the airline to the left rear bumper i took an airgauge to control the pressure.
Also i put an stopcock between the valveblock and the airtank, so that no air goes over night back from the airtank to the valveblock, because the eas- system every 6 hours will control the levels!
Yesterday i had have 60 psi- today morning also 60 psi- and the range is now 4 cm lower. WHY???
On the picture you can see what i do.
Could it be, when the air in the bumpers are cold in the morning, that that is the reason, that the car goes some cm deeper over night?
6219670iif.jpg

Regards
Range0815
Click to expand...

You have a leak simple as that. Why all the plumbing that is all there to mask a problem? Find all the leaks return it to standard.
All the extra stuff is just making it more complex than it is. You still have 60psi because the EAS only drops the vehicle to level it, it does not lift it. So no air from the tank is used when the vehicle wakes and levels the car.
 
hello,
thanks for information.
i will look to find the leak or leaks.

what i can see is, that their comes some very little mm bubbels out of the valveblock where the airlines goes in. at three points. on saturday all places there were okay, but i take the airlines out an in and don't control. My big fail!! But it needs a long time, half an hour for some little little bubbels. i find the leaks with soapwater.
Tomorrow i will fix it.

Regards
Range0815
 
When you refit an air pipe ALWAYS push it in again with pressure in line. It will go in a little further as the air pushes against the O'rings that will seal a small leak 99% of the time.
 
I have the same problem and when I took the airline out for the back bags both were scored the nearside more so anyway I trimmed what I thought I could get away with and the leaks are much reduced in fact gone completely on the supply to the tank - I have ordered some spare line and connectors so will remove the scored section - the line was also pitted a bit and hopefully a new section of airline will give a good seal if not its refurb the block time
 
sandyt said:
I have the same problem and when I took the airline out for the back bags both were scored the nearside more so anyway I trimmed what I thought I could get away with and the leaks are much reduced in fact gone completely on the supply to the tank - I have ordered some spare line and connectors so will remove the scored section - the line was also pitted a bit and hopefully a new section of airline will give a good seal if not its refurb the block time
Click to expand...

Where did you get the airline and connectors, do they post?
 
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