EAS Mind of its own

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Jelleyman said:
ok guys after a weeks holiday I have now had a look at this tonight and believe the white connector is where the problem lies. Taking it apart it was badly corroded but using the wifes nail file I was able to clean the pins but can't get into the holes with anything. So with the car running and at normal height if I move the white plug I can make it rise, so this isn't good. Should I just cut the blocks off and crimp on some connectors to make the joins?

Cheers
Click to expand...
Solder and heat shrink tube would be better than crimps. If you use crimps fill the ends with silicon or the will rot inside.
 
sandyt said:
Hope you are not admitting that your teeth are in a glass by your bed and this was the only use for said brushes :D:D:D
Click to expand...

Nope all my teeth are firmly positioned in their correct position. But did find my flossing brushes ideal for cleaning electrical connectors. :D:D:p
 
wammers said:
Did you read the bit in the "How To" about the white connector at passenger side?
Click to expand...

Tanks @wammers and others, I have be "fighting" with this issue since I bought it 5 years ago!
(Also try with others used drive pack.... working in others RR)....

Since "we" have Left and Right Hand drive..., can you please share a photo, where is this infamous white connector!
(just the zone where he is).

Thanks
 
RHD. L/H side of passenger foot well at base of A post. The post that the door is hinged to. Plastic trim held by one central screw. Remove that two white plugs behind it the larger one is the one you are looking for. But clean both if they are corroded. Same place on LHD as far as i know. But it would be driver foot well.
 
Hi Guys,
I eventually got round to cutting out the white plug and did solder and heat shrink. drove for about 3 miles just as I thought i'd fixed it on comes the light on the dash and then up to full height. Checked the eas software and no codes so any suggestions on what to do next??
Cheers
Phil
 
Jelleyman said:
Hi Guys,
I eventually got round to cutting out the white plug and did solder and heat shrink. drove for about 3 miles just as I thought i'd fixed it on comes the light on the dash and then up to full height. Checked the eas software and no codes so any suggestions on what to do next??
Cheers
Phil
Click to expand...

Selector switch.
 
Jelleyman said:
Hi Guys,
I eventually got round to cutting out the white plug and did solder and heat shrink. drove for about 3 miles just as I thought i'd fixed it on comes the light on the dash and then up to full height. Checked the eas software and no codes so any suggestions on what to do next??
Cheers
Phil
Click to expand...
Driver pack. Leave the lid off the EAS box for a bit and see if it affects it. Since I put cooling holes in the lid of mine I've had no more problems, could be coinicidence of course but it's just done a 1065 mile round trip to the UK without faulting.
 
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i'll try it without the lid on to see how it goes, if not i presume the driver pack is the next thing to replace? If so is that the all the kit in the EAS box in the engine bay?

Cheers
Phil
 
Datatek said:
Driver pack. Leave the lid off the EAS box for a bit and see if it affects it. Since I put cooling holes in the lid of mine I've had no more problems, could be coincidence of course but it's just done a 1065 mile round trip to the UK without faulting.
Click to expand...

Datatek, it could be also coincidence, but, since I remove the "rubber side" of the hood/bonnet, the problem is "gone"...
 
Jelleyman said:
i'll try it without the lid on to see how it goes, if not i presume the driver pack is the next thing to replace? If so is that the all the kit in the EAS box in the engine bay?

Cheers
Phil
Click to expand...

The driver pack is bolted to the side of the valve block in the EAS box next to the compressor. Worth cleaning the connectors before you replace it.
 
ok connectors cleaned will check tomorrow. On another note the pump was hot to touch is this normal?

Cheers
Phil
 
none of my 95 -99 gems p38's have had any driver pack issues
in fact I fixed both my later thor p38's by swapping the driver packs from my old thor p38's
Just to have proof positive I fitted the faulty driver packs from the thor RR's to the gems ones and the random suspension faults moved with them
 
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Wammers, no leaks that I know of, I get no sagging or dropping over night. Have to hunt for a drivers pack I think
 
Jelleyman said:
Wammers, no leaks that I know of, I get no sagging or dropping over night. Have to hunt for a drivers pack I think
Click to expand...

Driver can cause problems if it's starts doing it's own thing without signals from ECU that's for sure. It can allegedly cause pressure switch faults which it has no connection to, so it is very clever. Mine used to jump from standard to high on occasion randomly. And even go up to high overnight. Cleaning white plug cured that, it has never happened since. So there are several possible causes. It is not always the driver pack. It's worth trying everything else before spending that sort of money.
 
wammers said:
driver can cause problems if it's starts doing it's own thing without signals from ecu that's for sure. It can allegedly cause pressure switch faults which it has no connection to, so it is very clever. Mine used to jump from standard to high on occasion randomly. And even go up to high overnight. Cleaning white plug cured that, it has never happened since. So there are several possible causes. It is not always the driver pack. It's worth trying everything else before spending that sort of money.
Click to expand...
+1:)
 
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