Air suspension problems

Thank you Henry

I’m a novice and this is all new to me I guess I should change the o rings in the block at the same time

Thanks

Diaphragm solenoid is 12V, and gets powered by the compressor relay directly.

All the others are via the driver pack which provides around 9V to the solenoids. You can apply 12V via the main connector at th front of the EAS block. Never put 12V directly to Exhaust, Inlet or Corner valves.

Had some time today to take the valve block apart ready for new o rings and
diaphragm I need some advice please

1, can I use brake fluid to degrease the block
2, when refitting the eight bolts should I put lock tight on them ? There seems to be a residual paste
3, when refitting the pressure switch should I put some kind of paste on the thread before fitting ?
4 where can I buy a new exhaust filter mines black

Any help appreciated thanks

Maxfred said:

Had some time today to take the valve block apart ready for new o rings and
diaphragm I need some advice please

1, can I use brake fluid to degrease the block
2, when refitting the eight bolts should I put lock tight on them ? There seems to be a residual paste
3, when refitting the pressure switch should I put some kind of paste on the thread before fitting ?
4 where can I buy a new exhaust filter mines black

Any help appreciated thanks

Click to expand...

There should not be any grease to remove but I would not go near parts of the valve block with brake cleaner or brake fluid. The actual metal block can be put in the dish washer I'm told.
No need for Lock tight
There was no need to remove the pressure switch, use PTFE tape on the thread when refitting.
Anywhere that sells industrial air line parts will have the silencer but it's OK temporarily to run without it.

Thank you so much for the help I’m very grateful

One more question there is a video on YouTube with someone rebuilding the valve block and he uses vasiline on the o rings ?
Do I need to lubricant the o rings
Thanks

Maxfred said:

One more question there is a video on YouTube with someone rebuilding the valve block and he uses vasiline on the o rings ?
Do I need to lubricant the o rings
Thanks

Click to expand...

Nothing on the O rings and certainly not Vaseline.

Thanks again

A bit of an update
So yesterday I fitted all new o rings to the valve block and compressor
Today I fitted them start car remove blue pipe on compressor, I had good strong flow of air coming from compressor
I checked the exhaust filter no longer have air venting at this point

I left the door open for a while with engine running to refill tank as car is on bump stops ,Then closed the door but she would not rise
The compressor is now refusing to work with engine running,I can activate the pump with the rsw software

I checked the orange and black cable on the compressor with a multimeter for continuity to test heat cut out

I had this problem before replacing the o rings

Any help appreciated

Have you looked at wammers post in the tech section? Lots of stuff there to try/test.

Thanks will do

Maxfred said:

A bit of an update
So yesterday I fitted all new o rings to the valve block and compressor
Today I fitted them start car remove blue pipe on compressor, I had good strong flow of air coming from compressor
I checked the exhaust filter no longer have air venting at this point

I left the door open for a while with engine running to refill tank as car is on bump stops ,Then closed the door but she would not rise
The compressor is now refusing to work with engine running,I can activate the pump with the rsw software

I checked the orange and black cable on the compressor with a multimeter for continuity to test heat cut out

I had this problem before replacing the o rings

Any help appreciated

Click to expand...

Have you cleared any faults that may be present?

Maxfred said:

A bit of an update
So yesterday I fitted all new o rings to the valve block and compressor
Today I fitted them start car remove blue pipe on compressor, I had good strong flow of air coming from compressor
I checked the exhaust filter no longer have air venting at this point

I left the door open for a while with engine running to refill tank as car is on bump stops ,Then closed the door but she would not rise
The compressor is now refusing to work with engine running,I can activate the pump with the rsw software

I checked the orange and black cable on the compressor with a multimeter for continuity to test heat cut out

I had this problem before replacing the o rings

Any help appreciated

Click to expand...

If pump only runs on diag and there are no faults then I would suspect the thermal switch has failed. Can be replaced. Wammers put the part-number in his How To in the Technical Section. You can very gently prise the little board past the rivets and leave enough to bang them on again after you have finished soldering.

Thanks
No faults
I checked continuity for thermal switch was ok

I split the connection for compressor and checked the ecu side of the connector with the engine on doors closed there is no voltage

Thanks

So for the compressor to work I read that I need

For the compressor to operate automatically, the following conditions must be met:

• Engine speed greater than 500rpm;
• Pressure switch operational (open);
• Thermal switch closed (grounded);
• Exhaust valve solenoid closed;
• Compressor Relay operational (closed) and MF2 not blown.

How can I check that the exhaust valve solenoid is closed?
And where is MF2 located

Thanks

Maxfred said:

So for the compressor to work I read that I need

For the compressor to operate automatically, the following conditions must be met:

• Engine speed greater than 500rpm;
• Pressure switch operational (open);
• Thermal switch closed (grounded);
• Exhaust valve solenoid closed;
• Compressor Relay operational (closed) and MF2 not blown.

How can I check that the exhaust valve solenoid is closed?
And where is MF2 located

Thanks

Click to expand...

If the pump runs on diagnostics, the problem is not going to be the relay or Maxi Fuse 2

Thank you Datatek

I ran the pump again today using the software
It stopped on its own the valve block area was making some strange noises
and seemed to dump air very loud


If the driver pack was faulty would that stop any of the solenoids from opening preventing the compressor to run and air going to the tank etc

I was thinking of chancing a second hand drivers pack to see if that helps

Is there a way to test if the driver pack is working correctly

Thanks

Maxfred said:

Thanks
No faults
I checked continuity for thermal switch was ok

I split the connection for compressor and checked the ecu side of the connector with the engine on doors closed there is no voltage

Thanks

Click to expand...

I've had a thermal switch that checked out with a DVM but when I replaced it, it fixed the only running on diag.

Maxfred said:

Thank you Datatek

I ran the pump again today using the software
It stopped on its own the valve block area was making some strange noises
and seemed to dump air very loud


If the driver pack was faulty would that stop any of the solenoids from opening preventing the compressor to run and air going to the tank etc

I was thinking of chancing a second hand drivers pack to see if that helps

Is there a way to test if the driver pack is working correctly

Thanks

Click to expand...

Very unlikely to be the driver pack but no harm in having a spare on the shelf.

As said above, if RSW can run the compressor, then the relay is probably ok. Not sure if RSW checks the thermal switch though, as I cannot see it in my copy. Check the wire is grounded with compressor plug connected rather than unplugged.

None of the solenoids operated by the driver pack are required when the compressor is filling the tank, although yes the exhaust valve must be closed (off). In some cases the ECU will open the inlet & corner valves at the same time as tank filling, but this simply means the tank & airbags take longer overall to fill up. Open doors to prevent ECU trying to fill the airbags.

Diaphragm solenoid valve needs to close when compressor is running, hence why it's wired in parallel with the comp, and driven by the relay (not driver pack).

If RSW is still connected, (with engine still running) reset faults (even if none), and then do the software disconnect, and unplug it. After that switch engine off, and restart. Now see if compressor runs automatically. Although rare, I have seen occaisions where the ECU gets into a confused state & some stuff doesn't work quite right.

Also look for the EAS System Info Doc in the Technical Archive. That together with the diagrams in RAVE tell you all you need to know about EAS.