EAS - Losing My Way

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R

Rachelkgr

Active Member
Posts
715
Location
Manchester
2001.DHSE

So as some of you know I swopped my front sensors over as Hawkeye indicated that I had a Front Right sensor fault. Swopping them killed the fault. I tested the rheostats, all good for the swop.

Then the car would not lift, or sometimes it did real slow. It was suggested that I get the EAS software and lead to recalibrate it.

This morning started this process. The EAS software says that there are No faults in the system, and Hawkeye says the same.

I measured out the heights on the lowest height corrected the errors and got the heights to 405mm on access. Each valve clicked perfectly as I pushed each value to each corner.

When I selected the next height, nothing happened. Not a thing.

The car started to say EAS fault on the dash.

The fault, was cleared by Hawkeye. Can't remember the fault now Doah, but it has not showed again. I did manage later to lift the car to normal height, and balanced out the corners to 470mm.

When I lowered the car, she would not rise again!

On another forum, I was told to check the white blocks in the passenger foot well as they go green. So I pulled them apart and one pin was in fact broken, This could have happened when I pulled them apart (I will cut these connectors out next weekend). I made a temp connection on the broken pin.

Now the car does actually rise but takes ages, especially if I select wade height.

Remember, before I started a this, I went up and down ok. Hawkeye can test each valve and pump, all seem to be working. I have no leaks.

I probably can continue to enter the values for High and Motorway, but is this going to put things right?

Why is she lifting so slow now?

What am I missing?

Help?

Rach
 
Rachelkgr said:
2001.DHSE

So as some of you know I swopped my front sensors over as Hawkeye indicated that I had a Front Right sensor fault. Swopping them killed the fault. I tested the rheostats, all good for the swop.

Then the car would not lift, or sometimes it did real slow. It was suggested that I get the EAS software and lead to recalibrate it.

This morning started this process. The EAS software says that there are No faults in the system, and Hawkeye says the same.

I measured out the heights on the lowest height corrected the errors and got the heights to 405mm on access. Each valve clicked perfectly as I pushed each value to each corner.

When I selected the next height, nothing happened. Not a thing.

The car started to say EAS fault on the dash.

The fault, was cleared by Hawkeye. Can't remember the fault now Doah, but it has not showed again. I did manage later to lift the car to normal height, and balanced out the corners to 470mm.

When I lowered the car, she would not rise again!

On another forum, I was told to check the white blocks in the passenger foot well as they go green. So I pulled them apart and one pin was in fact broken, This could have happened when I pulled them apart (I will cut these connectors out next weekend). I made a temp connection on the broken pin.

Now the car does actually rise but takes ages, especially if I select wade height.

Remember, before I started a this, I went up and down ok. Hawkeye can test each valve and pump, all seem to be working. I have no leaks.

I probably can continue to enter the values for High and Motorway, but is this going to put things right?

Why is she lifting so slow now?

What am I missing?

Help?

Rach
Click to expand...

Air pressure probably. Throw the Hawkeye in the bin and use the EAS unlock.
 
Before you select the next height are you waiting for the compressor to refill the air reservoir tank. ie is the compressor switching itself off???

Obviously you have all the doors/tail gate closed a drivers/passengers windows open.

Depending on where your located in Kent, I maybe able to help you, if required.
 
Last edited:
Rachelkgr said:
Thanks Wammers, I was using EAS unlock to set the heights. Not sure what else I can do. It says no faults also. Not sure what my next step is.
Click to expand...

You can do everything with EASunlock no need for Hawkeye. If you have only changed the two front sensor it is only they that may need re calibration. Do those first before you start playing with anything else. Write down ALL the present stored settings. If you cockup you will need them for reference or you could have a long frustrating time ahead.
 
wammers said:
You can do everything with EASunlock no need for Hawkeye. If you have only changed the two front sensor it is only they that may need re calibration. Do those first before you start playing with anything else. Write down ALL the present stored settings. If you cockup you will need them for reference or you could have a long frustrating time ahead.
Click to expand...

Thanks Wammers, I'll give it another try.

Rach
 
zzr1200 said:
Before you select the next height are you waiting for the compressor to refill the air reservoir tank. ie is the compressor switching itself off???

Obviously you have all the doors/tail gate closed a drivers/passengers windows open.

Depending on where your located in Kent, I maybe able to help you, if required.
Click to expand...

Ah, that could be the issue. Maybe I need to wait a while.

I live near Ashford. Is that close to you?

Rach
 
zzr1200 said:
Ashford's a fair trek from Southend, but if necessary a time could be arranged, provided coffee and biccies are available......;)
Click to expand...

LOL! That would be no problem. I think your comment about the refilling the gas is the problem. I did all the calibration on 1st key position. So when trying to lift to next height I had emptied the tank! Doah!
 
Rachelkgr said:
OMG Thanks, This could be my whole damn problem!!!!!
Click to expand...

Certainly worth a shot.

If the tanks is empty the poor pump will be trying to fill the airbags all by itself, if you allow the pump to first fill the tank this will atleast let you know it is not an air supply issue unless there is kinked pipes or blockage in the valve block
 
Hi Rachel,
Do you know the condition of your pump? Have you tried undoing the blue pipe from pump into valve block connection and putting your finger over the end and see what sort of pressure you are getting? If in good nick you should not be able to stop the air pressure whilst the pump is running. Only takes a minute to disconnect and try it, worth a look.
Good luck.
Paul.
 
Rachelkgr said:
LOL! That would be no problem. I think your comment about the refilling the gas is the problem. I did all the calibration on 1st key position. So when trying to lift to next height I had emptied the tank! Doah!
Click to expand...

Try letting the system build some pressure before asking for the next height.

If you are unable to sort your problems, I'm willing to arrange a suitable time one weekend.
 
PPP38vouge said:
Hi Rachel,
Do you know the condition of your pump? Have you tried undoing the blue pipe from pump into valve block connection and putting your finger over the end and see what sort of pressure you are getting? If in good nick you should not be able to stop the air pressure whilst the pump is running. Only takes a minute to disconnect and try it, worth a look.
Good luck.
Paul.
Click to expand...

Hello Paul, This is the only part of my car I have not explored yet! I keep hearing about valves, o rings, pumps and diaphragms! Not sure what goes where and what service kit fixes what lol! But I will try your test on Wed, when I can get at my car again. I was doing so well sorting the heights out as well!
 
Hi Rachel,
Don't panic, you are doing just fine, like you I was also concerned when I looked into refurbing my pump but once I did it you wonder why you worried so much. I got my refurb kit from a firm called Landyair , they send you all the instructions and all so have a link on YouTube to show you the different steps to take, with what you have done so far to your RR this little job will be a walk in the park and it is so worth it. Once done your comp will be nearly silent and will raise you car in seconds, funny enough I too have been on my EAS today having a look with rsw and cable doing a little calibrating but I done mine with the engine running so the pump was keeping up with the raising a lowering of my RR. So, do not panic you will get there it takes time to get used to calibrating it took me two to three attempts to get it right. Guess what? Valve block refurb next!!!!!!!
All the best.
Paul.
 
zzr1200 said:
Try letting the system build some pressure before asking for the next height.

If you are unable to sort your problems, I'm willing to arrange a suitable time one weekend.
Click to expand...

You are very kind. Will come back to you. Always good fun talking about Rangies with other owners :)
 
PPP38vouge said:
Hi Rachel,
Don't panic, you are doing just fine, like you I was also concerned when I looked into refurbing my pump but once I did it you wonder why you worried so much. I got my refurb kit from a firm called Landyair , they send you all the instructions and all so have a link on YouTube to show you the different steps to take, with what you have done so far to your RR this little job will be a walk in the park and it is so worth it. Once done your comp will be nearly silent and will raise you car in seconds, funny enough I too have been on my EAS today having a look with rsw and cable doing a little calibrating but I done mine with the engine running so the pump was keeping up with the raising a lowering of my RR. So, do not panic you will get there it takes time to get used to calibrating it took me two to three attempts to get it right. Guess what? Valve block refurb next!!!!!!!
All the best.
Paul.
Click to expand...

Thanks Paul,

So am I right in thinking there are two service kits? One for the pump and one for the valve blocks? Pump first, as you have done? And then valve blocks as you wish to do next. Think I could handle that, you know break the job down into small parts.

Ps is this the pump kit?

http://landyair.com/products/range-rover/p38-piston-seals/
Rachel
 
Last edited:
Hi, yes, that is the repair kit I purchased, I also orderd the valve block refurb kit too and did both at the same time. The pump refurb took about thirty mins to do and the valve block took around 2 hours but that was taking it slow and double checking each o ring twice. if you google Paulp38 he has a website and shows you how to do a valve block refurb, it is very straight forward, something you could easily do with your knowledge of these beasts, just a tub of Vaseline and a mug of tea and your laughing, word of warning though, on paul's website he strips all of the solenoids off in one hit, when I did mine I did one at a time, less confusing that way. It is a easy job and nothing to be scared of. I read that you found those white blocks behind kick panel, the bigger one of the two is the EAS, sorry, but forgot to mention that there is also one behind drivers side kick panel too, you will find three there and it is the middle one that you need to have a look at. I read that one of your pins had snapped off, half of my pins had fell to pieces so I removed block completely and rejoined wires. Keep us updated on how you are getting on, Paul
 
PPP38vouge said:
Hi, yes, that is the repair kit I purchased, I also orderd the valve block refurb kit too and did both at the same time. The pump refurb took about thirty mins to do and the valve block took around 2 hours but that was taking it slow and double checking each o ring twice. if you google Paulp38 he has a website and shows you how to do a valve block refurb, it is very straight forward, something you could easily do with your knowledge of these beasts, just a tub of Vaseline and a mug of tea and your laughing, word of warning though, on paul's website he strips all of the solenoids off in one hit, when I did mine I did one at a time, less confusing that way. It is a easy job and nothing to be scared of. I read that you found those white blocks behind kick panel, the bigger one of the two is the EAS, sorry, but forgot to mention that there is also one behind drivers side kick panel too, you will find three there and it is the middle one that you need to have a look at. I read that one of your pins had snapped off, half of my pins had fell to pieces so I removed block completely and rejoined wires. Keep us updated on how you are getting on, Paul
Click to expand...

Excellent, Thank you Paul. This is great, I will replace the white block with the broken pin next weekend and check the drivers side also. Think I may have a crack at the pump first, looks fairly easy to do, will order that kit now on readiness.

Will let you know what happens in next update. Rach.
 
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