eas fault

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Dunno if this will work... but here goes some pics... Test bellow (before I start posting loads and nothing works). If it works - then this is the beastly

29108_403825212071_577467071_4122660_7127790_n.jpg
 
As promised... Air bags currently on vehicle. From the looks of them they seam ok??

Rear Driver
29108_403825637071_577467071_4122681_2082688_n.jpg


Rear PX
29108_403825642071_577467071_4122682_2218472_n.jpg


Front Driver
29108_403825657071_577467071_4122685_7389843_n.jpg


Front PX
29108_403825662071_577467071_4122686_1629027_n.jpg


I've also noticed that when driving along at 60-70mph (what feels like) the ass end drops and lifts... I've read somewhere that this may be air being pushed from front to back or may actually be the front lifting ... but I'm sure its the back end that drops then raises again. Does it every now and then... Does this point towards one of the Valve block solenoids?
 
jwaldron said:
As promised... Air bags currently on vehicle. From the looks of them they seam ok??
Click to expand...
Problem is you shot the pictures with the car on high height. That way the rubber is extended so can't be sure.

May you shoot with a flash on normal height or highway height?

What we're looking at is the area that is 1 inches or 2 from the lower mount.
 
Last edited:
Tyres are Kumho Road Venture MT's 245/75R16 Q rated. They came with the car. I mainly do tarmac (he says.. been on a sand dune once since I had her)..lol

I expected them to wear but they just show no signs of tread loss all all after 1,500 miles.
 
I'll have a go.... The pics are in what the dash tells me is Std / normal height (third light up or second light down... depending on which way you wanna go).

I have noticed that she doesn't drop into Access very often... but will level herself out when you start in the morning... so something is sagging somewhere.

I'll see if I can plug her in and drop her to Highway height (next one down). If I can get under her - I'll snap away.

996TURBO said:
Problem is you shot the pictures with the car on high height. That way the rubber is extended so can't be sure.

May you shoot with a flash on normal height or highway height?
Click to expand...
 
Yeh... none of mine look anything like that.lol.. yet!

If the ground drys out a bit I'll back under the vehicle and do as much as I can to check for leaks but something is telling me (just a feeling) that its the valve block. Could be (probably am) completely wrong.
 
Very easy to tell.

Do you have some inflation valves, MARS kit or whatever?

If yes, bypass the valve block and fill the airsprings with those.

If you're rangie do not drop that way, it's your VB.:)
 
Ahh... didn't think of doing that. Can you set up the inflation valves on a 'T piece' so you can run either? ... but thinking again about that - that would allow the VB to still leak wouldn't it and let the air run back into the VB and out.

Just plumb the valves into the end of the lines at the VB entry point with a 90deg attachment then yeh? or would the T be ok still kinking back into the VB (thinking of leaving the valves on car after this is sorted as emergency get me home in future.)
 
If you want to know if either the VB or the springs are at fault, you must avoid one component.

It's right you can add some tees to a Mars kit to make a piggy back install but if the VB is faulty, then you're screwed.

My advice is to disconnect the airsprings airlines at the block (number 1 to 4) and plug an inflation valve (you can find those on ebay or even in my shop but at a screaming price). Then you fill those and measure on 12 hours.

Test your airsprings at 3 different heights.
 
Thank you Turbo... I'll go ebay hunting. See a set for about £20 I think... plus the air hose of course and connectors. Cheaper than a VB kit to find out what side to start fixing. Ta... will keep updated as I move on with things.
 
Update:

Been nearly a month without issue then 4 Faults inside 24hrs. First one was reset. 2nd one was within 30miles, then 3rd one was about 50miles, then 4th and most resent one was about 5miles.

Conditions was post heavy rain fall... Duel carriage way (faults 1 to 3 inclusive) and country roads (4th fault).

The car had been dropping automatically on speed and coming back up to std without issue. I first started to think that the pattern was when coming up from low to std (had noticed a few days before that she'd jump up into high before going back into std, as if the car had overshot the setting)... so on the 2nd reset I hit the inhibitor switch so she wouldn't drop - then 3rd fault so its not that.

Soap test result negative, Filters are clear. Pump runs.

I have used EAS software to depressurize both system and springs... reset everything - turned her on and let tick over. She raised from bumps to High without ANY previous system or spring pressure in about 7 to 10min. I have NO idea if that points to a slow pump time or what.

I read a lot about this but people seam to be split between Driver pack, VB rebuild, VB solenoid or Pump.

The Fault detailed on the EAS software is "Pressure signal constantly high" EVERY TIME.

I can take photos of anything people ma need to try and narrow these down.

What's peeps thoughts and experiences changing any of these... no one at the moment (that I've found) have had this and changed the pressure switch to resolve the issue... but then again most threads are left open after boxes have been changed etc but I don't know if things got fixed by doing this.
 
Filter off and cleaned through - although both where flushed with car cleaner and rinsed off dried and replaced. Both where not fouled up with grit or anything though. I have considered a rebuilt VB?? or 2nd hand Driver pack? (if the second hand driver pack does the trick would swap for a OEM new one).

Other than that - I'm currently stuck and the faults are more frequent than ever before - so something is getting closer to failing completely I guess.
 
jwaldron said:
Filter off and cleaned through - although both where flushed with car cleaner and rinsed off dried and replaced. Both where not fouled up with grit or anything though. I have considered a rebuilt VB?? or 2nd hand Driver pack? (if the second hand driver pack does the trick would swap for a OEM new one).

Other than that - I'm currently stuck and the faults are more frequent than ever before - so something is getting closer to failing completely I guess.
Click to expand...

The valve block is easy to re-furb, look at the rangerovers.net site. Driver pack is a possibility but a second hand unit may prove nothing. The pressure constantly high message seems to be an odd one, it comes up for what seem to be a number of reasons including a shagged compressor or leaks.
 
I have a compressor pump seal set Which I will do tomorrow.

Resetting the system just now though I did notice an odd sympthom which may help to diagnose.

When selecting a height setting (going up) she will take an age to establish the new height. The rear lift quite well, then the front just seams to take longer then nothing happens for a long period whilst the lights still flash showing that the system is trying to establish the new height.... must be a good 2 or more minutes to go from std to high or access to std. Does that help any?
 
Took the plunge tonight and depressurized the system to take the compressor out to rebuild.

Tested the pump first with my finger over the outlay... Poor I though to my self as I could stop the flow of air just by putting my thumb over the outlet.

So I replaced the 2 'o' rings and the Teflon seal... cleaned it and reconnected for a test. Not too impressed. The aire was a little better but if I pushed hard, could still kinda stop the air flow. Anyone know what pressure the pump should be pushing out (I was thinking of putting a pressure gauge on the output to check)?

No idea if this will fix my issue of the constant EAS fault of Pressure signal high - but at least I'll know that the pump 'may' not be at fault now, so if it happens again I'll be looking for the Driver pack, VB rebuild and Airbag.

I've measured the heights tonight now I've re-pressurized the system etc and lets see what the state is in the morning and if this sheds any light on whats causing things to go wrong.

At std height from top of the center wheel cap to the center of the wheel arch:
FL= 45cm FR=46cm
RL= 47cm RR=47cm
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

K
Is my RR Classic in EAS shutdown?
Replies
12
Views
963
kevleaper
K
Montyjohn
P38A Adding a valve to manually fill EAS tank and why did my pump fail again?
Replies
14
Views
1K
Datatek
Datatek
roger01
2000 RPM max
Replies
7
Views
505
Datatek
Datatek
O
03 L322 EAS ECU Can bus fault / ABS temp system deactivation
Replies
1
Views
728
oldradiotech
O
feyniriel
P38 EAS problems
Replies
18
Views
1K
pwood999
pwood999
Back
Top