eas fault

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Update following getting the cable and plug'n it in.

In rush to fix things... I set it up - Initalized and read faults but then unlocked the EAS so they all ent away. (Good and bad as now I'll have to wait for it to fail again on me before knowing what was wrong).

When I went to Calibration to get all the hights for the settings I was given the following:

High
FL (148) FR (148)
RL (136) RR (136)

Std
FL (123) FR (123)
RL (118) RR (118)

Low
FL (107) FR (107)
RL (107) RR (107)

Access
FL (77) FR (77)
RL (77) RR (77)

What I don't know is if these are normal or not.

Then I though I'd check the actual height of the car in Std by getting the sensor heights.. these gave the following:

FL (125) FR (119)
RL (117) RR (116)

The ground isn't completly level so I assume this is what's kicking things out.

When relating this to the profile settings I end up with a veration table (computer profile to sensor readings) of:

FL (+2) FR (-4)
RL (-1) RR (-2)

Should I do a veriation table for All settings to see if things match up (with the car in the same possition of course). My logic here is that if the ground level is kicking the sensor heights out with the profile settings... then the veriation should be the same on all settings???
 
jwaldron said:
Update following getting the cable and plug'n it in.

In rush to fix things... I set it up - Initalized and read faults but then unlocked the EAS so they all ent away. (Good and bad as now I'll have to wait for it to fail again on me before knowing what was wrong).

When I went to Calibration to get all the hights for the settings I was given the following:

High
FL (148) FR (148)
RL (136) RR (136)

Std
FL (123) FR (123)
RL (118) RR (118)

Low
FL (107) FR (107)
RL (107) RR (107)

Access
FL (77) FR (77)
RL (77) RR (77)

What I don't know is if these are normal or not.

Then I though I'd check the actual height of the car in Std by getting the sensor heights.. these gave the following:

FL (125) FR (119)
RL (117) RR (116)

The ground isn't completly level so I assume this is what's kicking things out.

When relating this to the profile settings I end up with a veration table (computer profile to sensor readings) of:

FL (+2) FR (-4)
RL (-1) RR (-2)

Should I do a veriation table for All settings to see if things match up (with the car in the same possition of course). My logic here is that if the ground level is kicking the sensor heights out with the profile settings... then the veriation should be the same on all settings???
Click to expand...

Sounds pretty normal to me. Measure from the wheel centre to the wheel arch with it on level ground to check:D
 
There is are definate fault messages for height sensor faults such as reading out of range. It won't neccesarily show a fault message though if the sensor has gone "noisy". the software has to accomodate fluctuating readings so misses some things. Like wise a poor connection will affect the resistance readings but may still be within the normal range causing the ECU to try to level to an inaccurate reading resulting in the the car being lopsided.
 
Ok... fault again.. this time I read the codes. Pressure switch constantly reading high???? That's over a week ago now with nothing again since... Does this ring any bells to anyone. Easy to test / fix?
 
jwaldron said:
Ok... fault again.. this time I read the codes. Pressure switch constantly reading high???? That's over a week ago now with nothing again since... Does this ring any bells to anyone. Easy to test / fix?
Click to expand...

Ooh, my favourite error! I get this on mine periodically. Apparently it just means that the pressure switch isn't changing state which means that it thinks the eas isn't getting to full working pressure.
This can be caused by:
a) weak compressor
b) air leak somewhere (pretty sure mine is inside the valve block).
c) duff pressure switch.

Not sure if that helps you at all though.

Guy
 
Right.. that's me with squirting soapy water all over the system tomorrow then to check for leaks and I've found a vid showing how to test the pressure switch. If both of those fail - I may do an overhaul on the pump if I can figure out how.
 
jwaldron said:
Ok... fault again.. this time I read the codes. Pressure switch constantly reading high???? That's over a week ago now with nothing again since... Does this ring any bells to anyone. Easy to test / fix?
Click to expand...
A pressure switch constantly reading high fault code is very OFTEN due to a bad drive box.

On 100 valve block rebuilts, i've never seen a bad pressure switch.
 
How do I test that then... that's the box under the valve block right? I just don't understand how the fault is so sporadic. Would a replacement box (if thats the way I went) just plug in and go or would I need to programe it or something.


996TURBO said:
A pressure switch constantly reading high fault code is very OFTEN due to a bad drive box.

On 100 valve block rebuilts, i've never seen a bad pressure switch.
Click to expand...
 
jwaldron said:
How do I test that then... that's the box under the valve block right? I just don't understand how the fault is so sporadic. Would a replacement box (if thats the way I went) just plug in and go or would I need to programe it or something.
Click to expand...
A pleasure to help you:welcome2:
Yes it's the box on the side of the block.
The fault is common on old drive boxes.
I always replace with a BRAND NEW.
No need to program anything.
 
996TURBO said:
A pressure switch constantly reading high fault code is very OFTEN due to a bad drive box.

On 100 valve block rebuilts, i've never seen a bad pressure switch.
Click to expand...

I've heard this a couple of times, but don't understand how a dodgy driver pack can cause a pressure fault. Care to elaborate?

As for leak detection, unfortunately I don't think you can use the soapy water test on valve block internal leaks. I've got one corner that drops overnight sometimes, and I can't find any leaks anywhere else in the system so I'm assuming it must be in the valve block. If yours isn't dropping then it may not be a leak! Still, it never hurts to check!

Guy
 
996TURBO said:
A pleasure to help you:welcome2:
Yes it's the box on the side of the block.
The fault is common on old drive boxes.
I always replace with a BRAND NEW.
No need to program anything.
Click to expand...

They're also very expensive! I didn't think there was anything much in them to go wrong.

Following my air leak theory (and my own ongoing experiences with the same problem), the sporadic nature of the fault might be caused by the fact that the EAS ECU requires this condition to have been present a few times in a row before it will trigger an EAS Fault. It may be that the problem (leak/underpressure) is so minor that sometimes the system does get to the correct pressure and therefore resets the fault count.

Mine does exactly this. I can go months with no fault and then get it 3 times in a day. I'm going to overhaul the valve block next. I was going to do it this weekend but neglected to place an order with rover renovations soon enough so I might have to do something else instead!

Guy
 
kooky_guy said:
I've heard this a couple of times, but don't understand how a dodgy driver pack can cause a pressure fault. Care to elaborate?

As for leak detection, unfortunately I don't think you can use the soapy water test on valve block internal leaks. I've got one corner that drops overnight sometimes, and I can't find any leaks anywhere else in the system so I'm assuming it must be in the valve block. If yours isn't dropping then it may not be a leak! Still, it never hurts to check!

Guy
Click to expand...

A dodgy drive box is linked to the pressure switch. When you replace the drive box, you must disconnect 2 pins. This may be why.

You can use soapy water test (i prefer gaz leak detection spray) on valve block but you'll see only external leaks around solenoids or valve ports.

For the cost of a VB rebuild kit, i wouldn't risk my compressor on a leaking valve block. All 10 years old VB have to be rebuilt.
 
kooky_guy said:
They're also very expensive! I didn't think there was anything much in them to go wrong.

Following my air leak theory (and my own ongoing experiences with the same problem), the sporadic nature of the fault might be caused by the fact that the EAS ECU requires this condition to have been present a few times in a row before it will trigger an EAS Fault. It may be that the problem (leak/underpressure) is so minor that sometimes the system does get to the correct pressure and therefore resets the fault count.

Mine does exactly this. I can go months with no fault and then get it 3 times in a day. I'm going to overhaul the valve block next. I was going to do it this weekend but neglected to place an order with rover renovations soon enough so I might have to do something else instead!

Guy
Click to expand...
You may be right about the sporadic nature of the fault.
I found that Range Rover Classic LSE drive boxes behaves better than P38's on the long term. That's maybe because those are not close to immediate heat.
 
996TURBO said:
You may be right about the sporadic nature of the fault.
I found that Range Rover Classic LSE drive boxes behaves better than P38's on the long term. That's maybe because those are not close to immediate heat.
Click to expand...

Hmm, you've got me wondering now...

I'll see if I still get the issue after I've done by valve block. As you say, they should be rebuilt anyway.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

DollyBird
P38A Searching for die hard P38 guru - EAS
Replies
9
Views
626
brianp38dse
brianp38dse
Flossie
P38A New hvac fault, bugger!
Replies
19
Views
869
Rubberknees
Rubberknees
rover75lover
l 322 air suspension problems
Replies
4
Views
685
Datatek
Datatek
JamesBB
P38A Unrepairable EAS fault after side steps fitted?
5 6 7
Replies
128
Views
7K
pwood999
pwood999
300bhp/ton
P38A Odd EAS behaviour - sinking front
Replies
19
Views
1K
Mark Piercy
Mark Piercy
Back
Top