eas calibration with rws software

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Looking at your mail again Nathan..yes bring them into the specifications. It will be good practice, you might be pulling your hair out trying to chase a couple of mm. but the important thing is to log the settings on a sheet of paper and keep track of any changes made, that way, if it goes haywire, you can always revert back.
 
Irishrover said:
Looking at your mail again Nathan..yes bring them into the specifications. It will be good practice, you might be pulling your hair out trying to chase a couple of mm. but the important thing is to log the settings on a sheet of paper and keep track of any changes made, that way, if it goes haywire, you can always revert back.
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will do and thanks for your help
 
TIP...
Measure wheel centre to arch first and make a note of the figure. Then measure floor to wheel arch. depending what the first dimension is, add or subtract the difference to calculate what the wheel arch dimension should be. It is less back breaking to just measure wheel arch to floor than wheel centre to arch. I am assuming that all tyres have roughly equal wear. Also concentrate on getting the Standard height settings done first as that is the "Normal" mode. When you have got everything set, put the sensor readings on your PC or keep them in the car so that you can always reload them if anything happens in a couple of minutes.:behindsofa:
 
shall do, or at least try lol i'll let you know how i get on...gotta find suitable level hard standing 1st, thnx again
 
Lived close to Halesowen for donkeys years. Used to make the weekly pilgrimage with er indoors every Friday.

Regarding the figures posted by Aronn Beast, they are based on standard size factory fit wheels with new tyres. That's why the wheel centre to arch is a true figure in case the tyres are worn or larger wheels are fitted. It is duplicating the use of setting blocks but without all the hassle of crawling underneath, pratting about fitting & removing different size blocks for different heights. My floor to arch standard heights with 18" wheels and 95% tread (Approx) is 810mm
 
Just read my signature......I know nothing at all...except how to draw me pension and how to appreciate good Guiness & Whiskey..you ask the questions and I get all the answers off the web!!!!:mooning

gav I'll sort your manifold bolt nos. out when I've finished my afternoon cocktails
 
Irishrover said:
Just read my signature......I know nothing at all...except how to draw me pension and how to appreciate good Guiness & Whiskey..you ask the questions and I get all the answers off the web!!!!:mooning

gav I'll sort your manifold bolt nos. out when I've finished my afternoon cocktails
Click to expand...

coctails? i didnt know you are homosexual!:eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::D:D:D:D:D:D
 
Can't beat a pina colada in the afternoon with a slice of spanish onion floating in it. I'll have you know I come from a part of England where men are men....and women are men:beer2::beer2::beer2::beer2::beer2::beer2::beer2::beer2::beer2::beer2::beer2:
 
Irishrover said:
The sensor values are not all that accurate and will vary from sensor to sensor, they are after all only potentiometers with handles on them!
You can't say, for example that 4 sensor units equals 1mm. On my car there is a difference in sensor readings of 30 odd units, yet the heights are within 3mm all round.
Forget the sensor values, it's the actual heights that count in each mode. That said, obviously when fine tuning the heights, the sensor values are your yardstick in deciding by how many units to alter.
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Went to sava carpark today and found it aint very level anywhere since they re tarmaced it lol buggers, re set the heights which are better but need to check em on a better surface
 
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