gemsdad
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EAS cable to reset received, plugged in, all hell breaks loose!
- Thread starter Vinny73
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nathan5346
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Phone the aa, they fix breakdowns and youve broke down
gavbriggs
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i dont think any of the two aa's can help mee!!!!!
Ok guys, whats my next logical steps here?
Take the battery out, recharge.
When I put it back, I eill then have to do the EKA code?? Never done this.
What are the chances the BECM is now blown due to all this?
Without a battery and power will the BECM not reset once power is back?
Failing all that, the AA will need to low load it off...
Take the battery out, recharge.
When I put it back, I eill then have to do the EKA code?? Never done this.
What are the chances the BECM is now blown due to all this?
Without a battery and power will the BECM not reset once power is back?
Failing all that, the AA will need to low load it off...
Datatek
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Check the battery is good with a LOAD TEST, flattened batteries do not always recover when charged especially if they have been flat for a while.
As for the BECM, it's anybodies guess, fluctuating voltage whilst trying to access it could potentially alter information that is held in memory. If that has happened you may need to send it away
If anyone has a duff BECM they don't want I'd like one to play with as microprocessors are my thingAssuming no damage to the BECM you will have almost certainly have to go through the EKA code routine.
gemsdad
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the EKA code is easy as long as you do it as per the book,if your BECM is kerknackered try giving irishrover a pm hes yer man for these things.
Cheers guys.
Spoke with the garage who sold me the EAS reset kit, he said dead battery will give symptoms im experiencing. Said it will not have damaged BECM, charge battery and it should be ok.
Apparently RR's give fault codes when there is not enough power in the system??
Will get a charger at lunch and get some juice back in it over night.
Can't avoid the EKA thing, as have to take battery indoors as car is 30 yards from house usually...
Hopefully it is all minor. It had been solid for 4 months since I bought it otherwise.
Spoke with the garage who sold me the EAS reset kit, he said dead battery will give symptoms im experiencing. Said it will not have damaged BECM, charge battery and it should be ok.
Apparently RR's give fault codes when there is not enough power in the system??
Will get a charger at lunch and get some juice back in it over night.
Can't avoid the EKA thing, as have to take battery indoors as car is 30 yards from house usually...
Hopefully it is all minor. It had been solid for 4 months since I bought it otherwise.
gavbriggs
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first thing is dont panic, worst case is sending becm to one of the fella on here there is irih rover(john) in ireland, kev in s****horpe and andy r(i think) in hereford/bedford area.
first thing to do is, as said above get battery charged and tested, for the purpose of testing if the battery is knackered then swap it off another car if the terminals are on the correct side/will fit. obviously a motorcycle battery isnt big enough for this purpose.
the eka code is easy, you can read up here: Security and Alarm System Operation & Diagnosis on Range Rover 4.0/4.6/P38A.
if its a manufacture year 1996 then note the 4 key turns before you enter the eka.
if you need any help/advice dont hesitate to post/pm/ring me(some of the other fellas wil help too!)
good luck
first thing to do is, as said above get battery charged and tested, for the purpose of testing if the battery is knackered then swap it off another car if the terminals are on the correct side/will fit. obviously a motorcycle battery isnt big enough for this purpose.
the eka code is easy, you can read up here: Security and Alarm System Operation & Diagnosis on Range Rover 4.0/4.6/P38A.
if its a manufacture year 1996 then note the 4 key turns before you enter the eka.
if you need any help/advice dont hesitate to post/pm/ring me(some of the other fellas wil help too!)
good luck
nathan5346
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why would you wanna mess with it yourself if its under warranty?:doh:
gavbriggs
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whats under warranty?
gemsdad
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For a number of reasons mainly being Im no stranger to laptops, serial cables, software and cars. So, what looked like a 2 minute job to get the thing back on the road (especially after I believe I found the leak on the air dryer) it seemed quick, easy and cheap to fix, without the hassle of a silly warranty claim.
Basically, Ive been told that if the voltage output drops below 12v from the battery, the car will not turn over (symptom I have), and you WILL get errors that are not valid, on the display. As the voltage drops further, you start to get other errors regarding windows/sunroof etc. I didnt even need to explain my full symptoms, this is apparently a common thing.
The guy who sold me the kit, who many others of you have used has said charging the battery to full should sort it. Also talked me through the EKA process as I have to disconnect the battery as I park in a car park,
Bought a decent charger tonight and will put it on overnight. Will check the EKA process before I disconnect, again been told how to do that.
Fingers x huh
nathan5346
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if id got a choice between a boat load of hassle messing with something i know nothing about or athe hassle of a silly claim... i know which one id choose :doh::doh:
nathan5346
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the rangie:doh:
Either way it's undriveable so it makes no difference. If I can't sort it, it gets sorted. No big deal.
greyray
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Regarding the EKA code: I managed to activate the alarm system recently and after figuring out that I needed to enter the EKA code to get back on the road, I looked it up in the handbook and proceeded to enter the code (I have a 2001 left hand drive diesel - as I do live in Spain). After getting a 'wrong code' message a couple of times, I was locked out and then had to wait an hour before it re-activated itself. So I went & had a cup of coffee, then returned to the car & very carefully entered the code - making sure that I did it correctly >>> but with the same result >>> following another hour's wait (and another coffee), I decided that 'maybe' as the car is LHD European and the English handbook I was reading originated in the UK - that I would reverse the code (eg - left - becomes right >> unlock becomes lock). Surprise, surprise - it worked first time >>> so, it may have no use to you now, but if anyone here looks up a EKA fault on a LHD vehicle, they may find this entry and it will get them back on the road easily.
gemsdad
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gavbriggs
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it is common for this to be the case, and it is documented on rangerovers.net website under the section relevant!
rangiegal
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While you're wiring in all sorts of sockets, Gav, why don't you fit an inverter permanently somewhere? You could add an extra (smaller) battery somewhere, albeit in a battery box, and fit a Battery Master / split charger so your main RR battery didn't run down (we all know what happens when that does!!)when using laptops etc. I was thinking about doing that, it allows use of lots more gadgets then, as you can just plug em in. I had a battery master fitted when I had a winch on my prev 4x4 and a second battery and it worked brilliantly. Like the split charger units in campervans.
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