Okay, will verify in the morning, thank you
P38A DSE Throttle but no revs
- Thread starter Brannigan
- Start date
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brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 20,094
- Location
- heathrow
If you check the crank sensor DO NOT unbolt the bracket of the engine, unbolt the sensor from the bracket .
Have you checked the modulation with the engine warm?
This will rule possible issues out.
I can't remember off hand which menu in the edc section.
If the modulation is not at 50% +/-5% then that should be dealt with and then move on from there.
Modulation running between 42 & 92%.
In tank pump working, can hear it running. Have re-enter we pump settings as none were showing, idle setting 128. First setting 8, all others at 128 as per nanocom instructions. Idle is at 830rpm when warm, throttle now responding but slow. How to adjust modulation??
Can hear timing solenoid when tested on nanocom too.
In tank pump working, can hear it running. Have re-enter we pump settings as none were showing, idle setting 128. First setting 8, all others at 128 as per nanocom instructions. Idle is at 830rpm when warm, throttle now responding but slow. How to adjust modulation??
Can hear timing solenoid when tested on nanocom too.
- Posts
- 12,660
- Location
- Sud ouest France !
The modulation is adjusted by tilting the pump head towards the engine.
You'll need a timing kit to be 100% that static timing position is achieved.
There are two nuts on the flange where the pump bolts to the rear of the timing casing and one bolt down on the end of the bracket on the rear of the pump. I've not yet gone through this myself so I can't be precise about the details and I wouldn't advise it without looking through rave for the correct process.
The modulation being out extends starting an engine in a warm condition and this is what leads to a hot start mod that fools the ecu into thinking the engine is cold on every startup and turns the glow plugs on.
The pump can cope with a certain amount of modulation upto a point.
If you have buzzing while your on diag there may be a problem in there but as i say, this is where my experience on the pump is starting to thin out.
@wammers the resident wizard on the pumps could shed some light with his experience.
You'll need a timing kit to be 100% that static timing position is achieved.
There are two nuts on the flange where the pump bolts to the rear of the timing casing and one bolt down on the end of the bracket on the rear of the pump. I've not yet gone through this myself so I can't be precise about the details and I wouldn't advise it without looking through rave for the correct process.
The modulation being out extends starting an engine in a warm condition and this is what leads to a hot start mod that fools the ecu into thinking the engine is cold on every startup and turns the glow plugs on.
The pump can cope with a certain amount of modulation upto a point.
If you have buzzing while your on diag there may be a problem in there but as i say, this is where my experience on the pump is starting to thin out.
@wammers the resident wizard on the pumps could shed some light with his experience.
Thanks, I will attempt that!The modulation is adjusted by tilting the pump head towards the engine.
You'll need a timing kit to be 100% that static timing position is achieved.
There are two nuts on the flange where the pump bolts to the rear of the timing casing and one bolt down on the end of the bracket on the rear of the pump. I've not yet gone through this myself so I can't be precise about the details and I wouldn't advise it without looking through rave for the correct process.
The modulation being out extends starting an engine in a warm condition and this is what leads to a hot start mod that fools the ecu into thinking the engine is cold on every startup and turns the glow plugs on.
The pump can cope with a certain amount of modulation upto a point.
If you have buzzing while your on diag there may be a problem in there but as i say, this is where my experience on the pump is starting to thin out.
@wammers the resident wizard on the pumps could shed some light with his experience.
- Posts
- 12,660
- Location
- Sud ouest France !
Score a line around the flange where it meets the timing casing for a reference to get back to somewhere bear if your using a timing kit.
- Posts
- 12,660
- Location
- Sud ouest France !
Your welcome, good luck and steady away.
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 20,094
- Location
- heathrow
Idle at 830 is a bit high 750 is normal, was the pump moved when the chains were done.
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
At 128 idle should be rock steady at 750 RPM. Sounds like someone has had the top and mid sections off played with and damaged the quantity servo and not reassembled pump mid section properly. If you don't have a clue what you are doing don't do it.
As far as I'm aware no one has played with the pump. I have removed top cover only to check condition, looks pretty good. Haven't gone to loosen mid section as have read lots of info regarding causing problems. Am going to attempt to move the pump slightly today to see if modulation changes. Thanks for your input
That I can't tell you as it was done at a Land Rover workshop.
Okay so I've adjusted the pump as far as it will possibly travel. It altered the modulation to 70-74%, obviously not enough. Help pleaseThe modulation is adjusted by tilting the pump head towards the engine.
You'll need a timing kit to be 100% that static timing position is achieved.
There are two nuts on the flange where the pump bolts to the rear of the timing casing and one bolt down on the end of the bracket on the rear of the pump. I've not yet gone through this myself so I can't be precise about the details and I wouldn't advise it without looking through rave for the correct process.
The modulation being out extends starting an engine in a warm condition and this is what leads to a hot start mod that fools the ecu into thinking the engine is cold on every startup and turns the glow plugs on.
The pump can cope with a certain amount of modulation upto a point.
If you have buzzing while your on diag there may be a problem in there but as i say, this is where my experience on the pump is starting to thin out.
@wammers the resident wizard on the pumps could shed some light with his experience.
Idle is at 750rpm at 128 now
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
With the static timing set correctly modulation should be 45% to 55% at idle with engine up to temp. Maybe a tad lower than 45% with new chains. Modulation is only checked at idle.
- Posts
- 12,660
- Location
- Sud ouest France !
Which direction did you turn the pump bran?
Stood looking at the front of the engine towards the wind screen the pump will go anticlockwise. Mine is on 222.000mls with 50% modulation with plenty of room if needed to turn the pump again?
That's the way I have been trying to turn it, it will slacken off the other way somewhat but am buggered if it will go any further the "correct" way.Which direction did you turn the pump bran?
Stood looking at the front of the engine towards the wind screen the pump will go anticlockwise. Mine is on 222.000mls with 50% modulation with plenty of room if needed to turn the pump again?
The bonus is I'm learning so much more about the DSE
