P38A DSE Throttle but no revs

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I think we need @wammers. I wouldn't have touched the top of that pump unless I knew it had been off. I'd have rechecked the static timing given we know the chains have been off.

I've never seen some of those faults. The needle one is #4 injector. Sounds like a wire has been trapped and broken, possibly more than 1 given the temperature sensor is also stuffed and the throttle is acting up. Or maybe it is the engine ECU itself.
 
When the chains were done are you sure the flywheel was locked it the correct place as there is a pin a few degrees before that the timing pin can hook up on if correct the dowel on the pump should be at 12 oclock.
 
Grrrrrr said:
I think we need @wammers. I wouldn't have touched the top of that pump unless I knew it had been off. I'd have rechecked the static timing given we know the chains have been off.

I've never seen some of those faults. The needle one is #4 injector. Sounds like a wire has been trapped and broken, possibly more than 1 given the temperature sensor is also stuffed and the throttle is acting up. Or maybe it is the engine ECU itself.
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IMG_20210109_120335.jpg
 
Unfortunately no! It did clear the injector needle fault tho so I guess that's a bonus.
It's just weird as will run fine at idle. Will also run if started with some throttle, but only above 1,000rpm, drop throttle below that and it will go back to idle with no throttle response.
EKA code is blank in the BCEM on nanocom so will phone Land Rover Monday to retrieve and re-enter, maybe a problem?
 
Brannigan said:
Unfortunately no! It did clear the injector needle fault tho so I guess that's a bonus.
It's just weird as will run fine at idle. Will also run if started with some throttle, but only above 1,000rpm, drop throttle below that and it will go back to idle with no throttle response.
EKA code is blank in the BCEM on nanocom so will phone Land Rover Monday to retrieve and re-enter, maybe a problem?
Click to expand...
Your eka is only for security not for the running of the engine.;)
 
Brannigan said:
Okay thank you. That would be the reason it starts now then.
Click to expand...
If the car thinks or finds an issue, it'll immobilize the car. The eka as you know allows the owner to resync the engine and becm or to that effect, via the key in the driver's door.
A good reason to replace known worn door mechanisms as they themselves can cause issues.
If you see the message engine immobilized on the dash, then you know it's eka time!!
 
Mark Piercy said:
If the car thinks or finds an issue, it'll immobilize the car. The eka as you know allows the owner to resync the engine and becm or to that effect, via the key in the driver's door.
A good reason to replace known worn door mechanisms as they themselves can cause issues.
If you see the message engine immobilized on the dash, then you know it's eka time!!
Click to expand...
Thanks! No it doesn't show immobilized on the dash, just noticed on nanocom that there was ne EKA code showing on the BCEM.
Have cleaned all earth's and gone through all connections except the crank position sensor one, that's tomorrow. Anyone know what voltage the throttle position shows on nanocom? Mine's showing 0.3v at idle, then 4.0v at full throttle.
 
Have you checked the modulation with the engine warm?
This will rule possible issues out.
I can't remember off hand which menu in the edc section.
If the modulation is not at 50% +/-5% then that should be dealt with and then move on from there. ;)
 
Have you heard the pump in the tank running?
I used to get a buzzing from my fuel pump. I'd unplug the map sensor and the buzzing would go. I hadn't realized but my intank pump had failed and my fip couldn't lift the fuel sufficiently.
 
Mark Piercy said:
Have you heard the pump in the tank running?
I used to get a buzzing from my fuel pump. I'd unplug the map sensor and the buzzing would go. I hadn't realized but my intank pump had failed and my fip couldn't lift the fuel sufficiently.
Click to expand...
Am guessing the pump is okay as there's quite a bit of fuel pressure at the "in" side of the fuel filter, will double check pump and modulation in the north, thanks.
 
Brannigan said:
Am guessing the pump is okay as there's quite a bit of fuel pressure at the "in" side of the fuel filter, will double check pump and modulation in the north, thanks.
Click to expand...
Don't guess my mate, verify it. If it has gone you'll get fuel starvation =powerloss!!
If the engine is cold keep the door open and the fuel cap off.
Turn the ignition on, (glow plugs light on)
Put your ear to the fuel cap and listen for the pump. It works when the glowplug light is on at first.
The fuel pump relay can be pulled and bridged also.
 
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