Dse 2.5 overheating issues maybe fan

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I chucked the fan in the defender when I owned it but with the rangie and her six pot engine and seeing the speed it heats up in the mornings ie those two extrA pots increase the heat I ve never wanted to run it without the constant fan in case something went wrong with the water cooling system I would have more chance of saving the head


Less chance of an over heat with the electric fans as you can have max cooling at minimum revs. Most of the time the fans don't even come on.
 
Less chance of an over heat with the electric fans as you can have max cooling at minimum revs. Most of the time the fans don't even come on.

Bet they would on the OPs car. Think he has other problems he needs to sort out before fitting any fan mod.
 
Silly question maybe but have you followed the coolant filling/bleeding procedure in RAVE? It is not hard and certainly worked perfectly on my 2.5DT

Cheers

Jerry
 
Less chance of an over heat with the electric fans as you can have max cooling at minimum revs. Most of the time the fans don't even come on.

Something to mull over I understand the fans are used like an electric fan, temperature induced, but yet you say they hardly come on ? So why is it when any one has overheating problems the fan is mostly mentioned as the culprit?
 
Something to mull over I understand the fans are used like an electric fan, temperature induced, but yet you say they hardly come on ? So why is it when any one has overheating problems the fan is mostly mentioned as the culprit?

Data's comment is referring to the electric fan conversion - i.e. the engine rarely needs them in order to keep itself cool. But rarely doesn't mean never...

Obviously on the occasions when they are required, the engine will overheat if they don't work :) Likewise with the viscous fan, if it starts to fail, then the engine will overheat when fan assisted cooling is required.

Going back to basics -

1) have you filled the cooling system as per the instructions in RAVE?
2) you have said that the viscous fan is 'loose' - in that case, it needs removing and either Data's cooling mod installed in its place, or replacing - simple as that...

Once you have attended to the 2 items above, then we can do the next stage of diagnosis, if the problem is still there.


Cheers,

Jerry
 
Data's comment is referring to the electric fan conversion - i.e. the engine rarely needs them in order to keep itself cool. But rarely doesn't mean never...

Obviously on the occasions when they are required, the engine will overheat if they don't work :) Likewise with the viscous fan, if it starts to fail, then the engine will overheat when fan assisted cooling is required.

Going back to basics -

1) have you filled the cooling system as per the instructions in RAVE?
2) you have said that the viscous fan is 'loose' - in that case, it needs removing and either Data's cooling mod installed in its place, or replacing - simple as that...

Once you have attended to the 2 items above, then we can do the next stage of diagnosis, if the problem is still there.


Cheers,

Jerry

Think you have missed a vital point here. Read my earlier post. OP says all is ok until left hand heater pipe gets warm then it boils over. The water pump circulates coolant through the heater at all times whilst the engine is running. If there is no circulation through the heater and the heater is not blocked, then water pump HAS to be faulty. He has not checked the thermostat either he has work to do. He needs to change the viscous fan before it breaks off and does damage. Check the water pump and thermostat. Even if the viscous fan is doing very little the engine should not boil over on tickover.
 
I'm also putting my money on the water pump but OP has still not said the system has been bled according to RAVE procedure, in which case airlock could give similar symptoms, could it not?

All I'm saying is that he needs to fill it and bleed it according to RAVE, sort the wobbly fan out (just noticed the original post said that he replaced aux belt, so quite likely that it could have damaged the fan when it went), before doing anything else...

Cheers

Jerry
 
Data's comment is referring to the electric fan conversion - i.e. the engine rarely needs them in order to keep itself cool. But rarely doesn't mean never...

Obviously on the occasions when they are required, the engine will overheat if they don't work :) Likewise with the viscous fan, if it starts to fail, then the engine will overheat when fan assisted cooling is required.

Going back to basics -

1) have you filled the cooling system as per the instructions in RAVE?
2) you have said that the viscous fan is 'loose' - in that case, it needs removing and either Data's cooling mod installed in its place, or replacing - simple as that...

Once you have attended to the 2 items above, then we can do the next stage of diagnosis, if the problem is still there.


Cheers,

Jerry
forget electric I know how they work when the engine reaches a certain temperature they come on until excessive heat is reduced to a stable condition.right to cut a long storie short a good working v fan isn't worth it because it doesn't do much until the point when the engine gets too hot that is when the fan starts to work its best to cool back down which is kind of what you're saying. whereas I reckon the v fan maintains a flow all the time once warmed up To maintain a steady heat.
 
And for the mod approach I'm sure it does work well but unlike most electric fans that a fixed right up close the the radiator the air con fans have a condenser behind them so it has not as much efficiency say compared to say a kenlow fan and if your condenser is full of crud then that efficiency is further more decreased this is just my opinion.
 
And for the mod approach I'm sure it does work well but unlike most electric fans that a fixed right up close the the radiator the air con fans have a condenser behind them so it has not as much efficiency say compared to say a kenlow fan and if your condenser is full of crud then that efficiency is further more decreased this is just my opinion.

Even if you fit a Kenlowe behind the RAD the air still has to pass through the condensor, ditto with the viscous. The Viscous operates using a bi-metalic strip to engage, no different really to the bi-metallic strip in a thermostat which can be set to operate as early or late as you wish although over cooling is not a good idea. Using the built in electric fans means that the rad shroud can also be removed which improves the airflow through the RAD enormously. finally, a fan blowing into the RAD is more efficient than a fan sucking as there are no edge losses where air comes into the fan across the surface of the RAD rather than through the RAD.
You do what you want, I know what works and most modern cars use electric cooling because it is more efficient, remember also that cooling systems are generally rated to cope with much hotter conditions than you will ever see in the UK.
 
Hi there could you forward the mod to the aircon fans you discribe as I am having the same problem with the BMW 2.5 getting hot in traffic etc and want to get the fans to fire up using a hose in line thermo switch and relay, please help me if you can I am a bit short of time thank you.

[email protected] this is a little used spare email address so not worried about spammers
 
Hi there could you forward the mod to the aircon fans you discribe as I am having the same problem with the BMW 2.5 getting hot in traffic etc and want to get the fans to fire up using a hose in line thermo switch and relay, please help me if you can I am a bit short of time thank you.

[email protected] this is a little used spare email address so not worried about spammers

Think you would be better finding out why it is doing that, rather than just masking it. A new water pump, radiator or viscous fan is a whole lot cheaper than a new engine.
 
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